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Read it already and it's obviously about temp and Kelvin! So what's your point?
Kelvin is the color shift spectrum and has nothing to do with how the light is refracted in the halogen housing.
If you read many other articles you will also see why people THINK they are getting better light output from a LED PnP kit. The Kelvin is so much brighter than a halogen and the eye constructs as the light has flooded the foreground but in actuality you have lost performance compared to halogen! That is what the post I reposted from MGD was getting at and this has been mine and the basis of the others from the beginning! Thanks for coming full circle and proving our point that it's the illusion that you're getting better light output when you're not!
So now you take that higher Kelvin light out put and scatter it and add dead spots and combined you have a crappy light setup!
Color shift and increased output are the 2 main reason anyone changes there lights to begin with so it has everything to do with it.
Vycor, sorry for totally hijacking your thread man
I don't necessarily think they are better, Just another option to be considered vs the Retrofits. And the LEDs replacements i have are made by Philips one of the reputable lighting makers you quoted so how do you explain that? They are supposed to designed to Mimic Halogens bulbs as closely as possible.
Post a pic of them, I want to see the 360° lighting to mimic a halogen! Phillips is a company to make money, not hard to explain that one.
Color shift and increased output are the 2 main reason anyone changes there lights to begin with so it has everything to do with it. Vycor, sorry for totally hijacking your thread man
Not against my argument. My point all along has been the crappy output meaning how they throw the light. It was never disputed that they were brighter ( we said they were more blinding causing glare) or that they had more output.
It's how they throw the light, it's all foreground lighting and only gets worse if you try to "adjust" them to prevent the glare.
Post pics of yours brother, let's see some output shots. I'd like to see the cutoff or lack thereof.
I don't see it as hijacking, someone new day will read this.
Did read the other thread? Tons of no and many pics showing the poor output of LEDs in halogen housings!
No LED scatter on the houses or trees, some shadows/hot spots but my factory halogens where much worse in that respect, see how the light does not hit the back window of the car in front of me in the 2nd pic but lights up everything i need to see?
And for the record I agree with 90% of your argument, but i don't believe in absolutes and think it can be done safely and responsibly for less than $1600
lol i have been waiting for you to ask that! No LED scatter on the houses or trees, some shadows/hot spots but my factory halogens where much worse in that respect, see how the light does not hit the back window of the car in front of me in the 2nd pic but lights up everything i need to see? And for the record I agree with 90% of your argument, but i don't believe in absolutes and think it can be done safely and responsibly for less than $1600
Thanks for the pics,
The first pic you're lighting up interior of that car parked n the curb and the second is a large SUV n the far left.
See, I'm not a fan of that output, it's splotchy and inconsistent why being too narrow.
Lumens: Basic unit of luminous flux. Think of this as the raw output of light. Lux: Basic unit of illuminance. Think of this as how much light is cast upon a surface. CRI: The acronym stands for Color Rendering/Rendition Index. CRI is a unit-less number, a percentage specifically, that represents how much of the visible spectrum is reproduced by the light source. To me, this is the most important figure. Efficacy: Expressed usually as lumens per watt or lm/w. This is how well a light source converts power into light. In a way it's how efficient a LED is, but do not confuse this word with efficiency... Kruithof curve: This is info from a guy that is used in the lighting industry as a "reference" as to what color of light is most pleasing. CCT: Corrected Color Temperature. This refers to the dominant wavelength in the spectral power distribution of the light source relative to a perfect black body emitter when heated to a temperature measured in Kelvin. Explaining all of that covers multiple fields in chemistry, physics, and biology. Just know that it's measured in Kelvin, K for short, and this correlates directly to a physical temperature in the typical range of 2,500 to 10,000. Values that are lower are perceived as 'warmer' and values that are higher are perceived as 'cooler' despite what the actual temperature is. Confused yet? Out of all of these, this is a very close second place to the most important figure. Dominant Wavelength: Our eyes evolved with the sun and there are very few light sources that replicate it. If there is a 'peak' or 'spike' in the visual spectrum from an artificial light source, it is referred to by this term. Dynamic Range: How much range something has within it's defined system. You can think of this as the RPM range of a TDI engine, the 3 inHg to 17 inHg range of a VNT actuator, and many other things. In this context, we're referring to the dynamic range of the human retina and a camera's CMOS/CCD sensor the perception of light. Photopic vision: The 'mode' at which we all see during normal daytime or in a moderately lit office environment. This vision is dominated by the cone cells in your eye and this is how you see color. Scotopic vision: The 'mode' at which we all see during night time without artificial light. This vision is dominated by the rod cells in your eye and is hardly ever used in developed countries due to the vast amount of artificial light that is used. Mesopic vision: This is the in between 'mode' of your eyes that most people mistake for night vision. It's so under-studied that the bulk of research is less than 10 yrs old. In fact, if you're in a city where the street lights have begun to be converted to a weird cool white LED lumiar, it is because of this research alone. Now, as everyone knows with cars, everyone has their preference. The reference to the Kruithof curve is just that. Now, everyone's perception of light is always a little different and by this and associated preferences, there will never be a perfect light source. The human retina sees best when we are using photopic vision. Pure white is typically 5500 Kelvin. Different types of color systems will actually vary this value between 5000K and 6500K. It easier for technology to reproduce lots of light that is warmer than this, ~2500K, or much cooler than this, ~7000K. Thanks to phosphors, we can produce multi-spectral light from one of these sources, typically the higher, and this is how white LEDs are made. These are not perfect though as you can see via a simple Google image search. Light is a funny thing. If you have at least a glancing familiarity of any color computer monitor or TV, you'll know that we use 3 colors to represent white when they are combined: red, green, and blue. Though not definitively red, the majority of the light on our roads is tungsten based and with a color temperature of 2700K to 3300K, "red" is the strongest component. Here is that the funny thing, you can increase green and blue and the overall brightness of that light doesn't really change, generally speaking. So, if you add in 1600 lumens of bluish light to 1600 lumens of orangish light, your eyes will still only see about that 1600 lumens (this is an oversimplification). However, if you add 1600 lumens or orangish light to 1600 lumens of orangish light, you'll get that 3200 lumens of light. This means that when you use "blue bulb" halogens, or HID lights above about 4500K, or even these LED lights and they are they have the stock light output, you'll have difficulty seeing on the road because things will not appear brighter. However, since using Halogen bulbs closely matches the regular street lights, you'll get added visibility. **info provided by "Digital Corpus" a user on another forum and someone much more educated than me on the factors of light**
I hate to jump into this love affair...but...you've just demonstrated two things here...you don't know what you're talking about...AND...you know how to copy and paste.
Now...you copied lots of "stuff" above...none of it means anything. One word however is missing (or at least I didn't see it)...that word is Luminance. I won't paste the definition as I'm sure you'll look it up.
That's what happens when you stick an extremely bright LED bulb into a Halogen housing. It blinds others on the road.
Defend your point all you like...I would agree with you but then we'd both be wrong.
The first pic you're lighting up interior of that car parked n the curb and the second is a large SUV n the far left.
See, I'm not a fan of that output, it's splotchy and inconsistent why being too narrow.
There are alternatives, better halogens.
The cell phone pics don't really do it justice. I wish i had pics of my factory beams, they had lines and shadow all over them to the point i thought my housing was cracked or my reflectors where bad (and they still might be) so it a HUGE improvement but i might have got a bad set of lights from the factory too
that first pic is on a uneven street and i'm pointed down hill a little, if it was a flat street the "cut off" (even though i know there's not a true cutoff on theses) would be just below the driver.
Just admit it, they are better than you thought they would be
I hate to jump into this love affair...but...you've just demonstrated two things here...you don't know what you're talking about...AND...you know how to copy and paste.
Now...you copied lots of "stuff" above...none of it means anything. One word however is missing (or at least I didn't see it)...that word is Luminance. I won't paste the definition as I'm sure you'll look it up.
That's what happens when you stick an extremely bright LED bulb into a Halogen housing. It blinds others on the road.
Defend your point all you like...I would agree with you but then we'd both be wrong.
Danno I hate to say it but you just proved several of the other members point about you..we were having a total friendly and rational discussion (including coping and pasting outside sources to defend our points) and you just had to jump in with your stubborn and borderline elitist comments.
ok we get it, your smarter that all of us and only you know what's right for us. please tell us all how we should Mod our own trucks the right way. You must work in the Obama administration
Danno I hate to say it but you just proved several of the other members point about you..we were having a total friendly and rational discussion (including coping and pasting outside sources to defend our points) and you just had to jump in with your stubborn and borderline elitist comments. ok we get it, your smarter that all of us and only you know what's right for us. please tell us all how we should Mod our own trucks the right way. You must work in the Obama administration
Like I said...then we'd both be wrong.
Mod your trucks however you like, just please don't insult my or anyone else's intelligence by trying to make us believe that you know best and post a couple of pics with your lights and expect us (or me anyway) to believe they are okay for street use.
Take the Halogen housing that another member posted a pic of, stick some LEDs in them and have that truck follow you around all night.
02-09-2016, 12:18 AM
