Will this work?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Will this work?
We are looking at buying a toy hauler trailer. Our first pick would be a MXT303 by K-Z Manufacturing. http://www.kz-rv.com/mxt/MXT303.html
It has a UVW of 5,770 and GVWR of 8,800 lbs. and is 34' long.
Our truck is a '13 EcoBoost SCAB, 4x2, 6.5' bed with Max tow. The GVWR is 7,500 lbs. CAT scales have the truck at 5,700 lbs. The sticker payload should not exceed 1,967 lbs. The GCWR is 16,900 lbs. We will have 500 lbs. between the myself, the Mrs., 2 dogs, tools etc. in the truck. We will not be carrying much water as we will be staying in campgrounds and we have a road bike so no need for a fuel station.
We will be adding air bags, LT tires, and a Pro Pride 3P hitch.
ANY thoughts about this setup. AM I asking too much out of this 150?
It has a UVW of 5,770 and GVWR of 8,800 lbs. and is 34' long.
Our truck is a '13 EcoBoost SCAB, 4x2, 6.5' bed with Max tow. The GVWR is 7,500 lbs. CAT scales have the truck at 5,700 lbs. The sticker payload should not exceed 1,967 lbs. The GCWR is 16,900 lbs. We will have 500 lbs. between the myself, the Mrs., 2 dogs, tools etc. in the truck. We will not be carrying much water as we will be staying in campgrounds and we have a road bike so no need for a fuel station.
We will be adding air bags, LT tires, and a Pro Pride 3P hitch.
ANY thoughts about this setup. AM I asking too much out of this 150?
Last edited by ccc150; 03-04-2014 at 01:19 PM.
#2
Senior Member
Going by the info provided you should be good to go. Assuming a 15% TW on that trailer at max load coupled with the added weight in the truck you should still be under your load capacity. You are also well under your tow load.
Some would say a 3/4 is better suited, and it is, however your truck will handle this tow load.
Some would say a 3/4 is better suited, and it is, however your truck will handle this tow load.
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ccc150 (03-05-2014)
#3
Senior Member
As mentioned, at 15% of max load you should be ok with payload (GVWR) but will exceed your receiver's rating (1150#?) and probably your rear GAWR. Also the Propride is an excellent hitch but quite heavy I am told, so that won't help either. (The Equal-I-Zer 1200# weighs only about 50# but is not as sophisticated as the Propride).
But if you can get the tongue weight less than 15% and/or don't load up the trailer to max, you should be able to get under all Ford's limits even with the Propride.
A tongue weight scale might be useful when positioning the toys in the trailer.
We're towing at the F150 Eco's weight limits, and it runs just fine.
But if you can get the tongue weight less than 15% and/or don't load up the trailer to max, you should be able to get under all Ford's limits even with the Propride.
A tongue weight scale might be useful when positioning the toys in the trailer.
We're towing at the F150 Eco's weight limits, and it runs just fine.
Last edited by brulaz; 03-04-2014 at 03:53 PM.
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ccc150 (03-05-2014)
#4
Grumpy Old Man
6,180 pounds max wet and loaded truck weight plus 8,800 pounds max trailer weight = 14,980 gross combined weight, or well below the 16,900 max.
So GCWR (pulling power) of the F-150 is not a problem with that trailer. GVWR (hauling weight capacity) is iffy. You really need the HD Payload Package with 8,200 GVWR to haul that much tongue weight with no worries about exceeding the GVWR of the F-150
But as brulaz mentioned, check the weight rating of your receiver. There's a sticker or embossing on the frame of the receiver - under the truck. If the max hitch weight rating is less than 1,320 pounds with a weight-distributing hitch, then you should replace the receiver with a heavier-duty receiver before you tie onto that wet and loaded toy hauler.
We will be adding air bags, LT tires, and a Pro Pride 3P hitch.
ANY thoughts about this setup. AM I asking too much out of this 150?
ANY thoughts about this setup. AM I asking too much out of this 150?
The ProPride 3P hitch is an excellent choice. I wish I could afford one. They tow as good as a 5er hitch.
With your 3.73 axle ratio and EcoBoost engine resulting in 16,900 GCWR, you should have no problems with the 8,800 pounds trailer being too much for your F-150 to pull over hill and dale. But your weight-hauling capacity means you need to weigh the wet and loaded rig frequently and keep the hitch and cargo weight down so you don't overload the suspension of your F-150
Last edited by smokeywren; 03-04-2014 at 06:29 PM. Reason: Oops!
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ccc150 (03-05-2014)
#5
Senior Member
Gents remember he said toy hauler the dry tounge weight percentage is always high on them. When properly loaded with toys, etc the tongue weight percentage will be closer to 12 or 13% which could be up to 200 lbs or so less then calculated for the trailers GVWR.
8500 x 15% = 1275
8500 x 12.5% = 1062
CCC150 - As suggested you may want to invest in a tongue weight scale, or if you will be haluing the same toys every time, head down to the scales weight the trailer disconnected with tongue jack on one scale pad and the trailer axles on another and find the best position for the toys and mark the floor, or take measurements and write them down so you can get the toys positioned the same way every time. Remember you want at least 10% (perferable a little more 12%) of the trailers total weight on the tongue.
8500 x 15% = 1275
8500 x 12.5% = 1062
CCC150 - As suggested you may want to invest in a tongue weight scale, or if you will be haluing the same toys every time, head down to the scales weight the trailer disconnected with tongue jack on one scale pad and the trailer axles on another and find the best position for the toys and mark the floor, or take measurements and write them down so you can get the toys positioned the same way every time. Remember you want at least 10% (perferable a little more 12%) of the trailers total weight on the tongue.
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ccc150 (03-05-2014)
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you gents for all of your input. I should have mentioned that my toy is a 1500 Goldwing weighing 900 lbs. and is 8’7” long. I would think it will be right in the middle of a 10’ garage but not much room front to back. Since a lot of that weight is behind the TH axles, how will that affect tongue weight? Also, why should tongue weight be less with a TH than a regular TT?
The receiver is rated for 1,150 lbs with a WDH.
I was going with the ProPride with thought that if there was sway the 900lbs and the 34’ length would accentuate the sway. So I thought maximum control should be in order even it cost more.
I will be taking your advice on the E-rated tires and a tongue weight scale.
The receiver is rated for 1,150 lbs with a WDH.
I was going with the ProPride with thought that if there was sway the 900lbs and the 34’ length would accentuate the sway. So I thought maximum control should be in order even it cost more.
I will be taking your advice on the E-rated tires and a tongue weight scale.
#7
Senior Member
Thank you gents for all of your input. I should have mentioned that my toy is a 1500 Goldwing weighing 900 lbs. and is 8’7” long. I would think it will be right in the middle of a 10’ garage but not much room front to back. Since a lot of that weight is behind the TH axles, how will that affect tongue weight? Also, why should tongue weight be less with a TH than a regular TT?
The receiver is rated for 1,150 lbs with a WDH.
I was going with the ProPride with thought that if there was sway the 900lbs and the 34’ length would accentuate the sway. So I thought maximum control should be in order even it cost more.
I will be taking your advice on the E-rated tires and a tongue weight scale.
The receiver is rated for 1,150 lbs with a WDH.
I was going with the ProPride with thought that if there was sway the 900lbs and the 34’ length would accentuate the sway. So I thought maximum control should be in order even it cost more.
I will be taking your advice on the E-rated tires and a tongue weight scale.
And you're right about the potential for sway, especially with that Goldwing behind the axle of a 34' trailer. The Propride does sound like a good idea. It will add weight, but maybe you can compensate elsewhere.
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#8
Senior Member
Toy haulers come from the factory with a high hitch weight just so you can put something heavy behind the axles, which will reduce it. The further behind the axles, the less the tongue weight.
And you're right about the potential for sway, especially with that Goldwing behind the axle of a 34' trailer. The Propride does sound like a good idea. It will add weight, but maybe you can compensate elsewhere.
And you're right about the potential for sway, especially with that Goldwing behind the axle of a 34' trailer. The Propride does sound like a good idea. It will add weight, but maybe you can compensate elsewhere.
#9
Senior Member
Safety is always 1st in my book, get the proper gear for the job. It is not always the biggest or most expensive that will be the best. E rated tires will provide much better control should you have to make emergency manuvers. However, you may lose ride quality. If you only tow it occasionally then it is realy up to you P vs LT (i.e. E load). If you tow a lot then it is more likely that you will need their additional capacity. As for sway, when properly loaded, i.e. not exceeding TH's recommendation for max weight in the garage you should not have any issues. Again, a tounge jack to confirm tounge weight and maintaining 12% or better minimum Tongue weight to total trailer weight will also decrease the likely hood of sway. One of the other big causes of sway is trailer pitch. If you tow with the tongue a where above level with trailer body it will increase likely hood of sway (it leverages more weight of the tongue and on to the rear of the trailer). I personally perfer towing slightly nose/tongue down again to much, particularly on some multi-axle trailers will increase the likely hood of sway. You will want to load the truck and trailer with gear and your bike (i.e. same as you would have for a trip), find a nice level spot and sent your WDH so that it maintains the trailer tonuge at or close to level when the load bars are installed.