What WDH do you like?
07-06-2016, 09:53 PM
#11
Official HTT Greeter
Looks good. I'd say it does need the WDH.
Maybe it's the pic. But it looks like the back of the truck is lower than the front, AND the tongue of the TT is lower than the axle...
A proper WDH should make that a perfect setup. Level across...
Maybe it's the pic. But it looks like the back of the truck is lower than the front, AND the tongue of the TT is lower than the axle...
A proper WDH should make that a perfect setup. Level across...
07-07-2016, 09:45 AM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hensley, and Pro Pride are out based on cost. Pullrite doesn't work either.
I like the ideas in the blue ox and the ability to change bars if necessary. Still looking to see if the equalizer does changeable bars. In past research, the heads were different for different weights on some brands negating bar changes.
RE bar size:
Given a GVWR of 5750 and 12% on the tongue, Tongue weight should be 690 lbs. So, get the 750 lb bars? Will 1000 lb bars be too stiff?
I like the ideas in the blue ox and the ability to change bars if necessary. Still looking to see if the equalizer does changeable bars. In past research, the heads were different for different weights on some brands negating bar changes.
RE bar size:
Given a GVWR of 5750 and 12% on the tongue, Tongue weight should be 690 lbs. So, get the 750 lb bars? Will 1000 lb bars be too stiff?
Last edited by MichaelInCalifornia; 07-07-2016 at 09:50 AM.
07-07-2016, 10:13 AM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Follow-up, Equal-I-zer uses different heads for each weight range. So, no swapping bars. If you err on initial choice or change trailers, you need a new hitch.
07-07-2016, 10:31 AM
#15
True North Strong & Free
I'm a great fan of the Equal-I-zer, I have over 40k kms of towing in 7yrs use through SK, AB, BC, SD, ND, WY, MT, CO, ID, WA, OR, & CA, from 11000' to 0' above sea level, interstates packed with semi units, horrendous cross winds through gorges...
Has never let me down nor left me feeling scared about its ability to maintain stability
Has never let me down nor left me feeling scared about its ability to maintain stability
07-07-2016, 11:41 AM
#16
Senior Member
I've been using the Reese Dual Cam, now called Reese Straightline, for nearly 14 years. It works well for me, though I can't compare to the others since I've never used them. My TT is about 6.5k lbs loaded.
07-07-2016, 07:15 PM
#18
Why a starter trailer. Looks very nice me.
Looks much nicer than many people's campers. If it's in good shape, has a good roof, and has functioning appliances, not much different from a new trailer other than the year it was built.
I realize you don't have the bars connected to the Weight Distribution Hitch, but that seems to sag worse than mine, and I doubt your tongue weight is much higher if even as high. Do you have your bed loaded with weight?
My camper has a 4850 lbs dry weight in the brochure, a 5050 lbs actual dry weight by the yellow sticker, and a 7500 lbs GVWR. I load around 6500 lbs or slightly higher with full water which is 90 gallons @ 8.3 lbs for a total water weight of 750 lbs.
My Camper without the Spring bars attached below:
And in my unlevel driveway without the spring bars:
Better pic of trailer length with my previous 2012 F150:
Last edited by Mike Up; 07-07-2016 at 07:38 PM.
07-07-2016, 07:38 PM
#19
Grumpy Old Man
I suspect your problem is not enough patience to getter done right. The Straight-Line with 1,200 pound trunnion bars is good for any tongue weight of 700 to 1,200 pounds. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66084.html
So unless your TW was less than 700 pounds, there is no good reason you cannot adjust the hitch to handle your actual tongue weight.
The Strait-Line with 800-pound trunion bars is good for any tongue weight of 500 to 800 pounds. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66087.html
My ProPride hitch on the TT is rated to 1,400 pounds TW. But my real-world TW is only 650 pounds. The stress on the trunnion bars is applied via screw jack, so they are infinitely adjustable between about 500 and 1,400 TW. Easy to adjust, but also easy to get them too tight.
The strait-Line hitch on my cargo trailer is tougher to adjust to match actual TW. But my actual TW is usually around 750 to 800 pounds when loaded, so I usually just tighten them as tight as an old man can get them and that's usually just right.
07-07-2016, 07:41 PM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Why a starter trailer. Looks very nice me.
Looks much nicer than many people's campers. If it's in good shape, has a good roof, and has functioning appliances, not much different from a new trailer other than the year it was built.
I realize you don't have the bars connected to the Weight Distribution Hitch, but that seems to sag worse than mine, and I doubt your tongue weight is much higher if even as high. Do you have your bed loaded with weight?
My camper has a 4850 lbs dry weight in the brochure, a 5050 lbs actual dry weight by the yellow sticker, and a 7500 lbs GVWR. I load around 6500 lbs or slightly higher with full water which is 90 gallons @ 8.3 lbs for a total water weight of 750 lbs.
Looks much nicer than many people's campers. If it's in good shape, has a good roof, and has functioning appliances, not much different from a new trailer other than the year it was built.
I realize you don't have the bars connected to the Weight Distribution Hitch, but that seems to sag worse than mine, and I doubt your tongue weight is much higher if even as high. Do you have your bed loaded with weight?
My camper has a 4850 lbs dry weight in the brochure, a 5050 lbs actual dry weight by the yellow sticker, and a 7500 lbs GVWR. I load around 6500 lbs or slightly higher with full water which is 90 gallons @ 8.3 lbs for a total water weight of 750 lbs.
There is no yellow sticker on the trailer. I'll look thru the folder of literature and see if the dry weight is in there.
Bars connected? I don't own the WDH yet.
I don't have scales within at least two hours of me, so we will do this old school. I will check tongue weight with a bathroom scale this weekend.