What WDH?
08-24-2016, 02:56 PM
#1
What WDH?
I ordered a new trailer and had the WDH added brackets during the build. Does anyone have an idea what WDH is compatible with this mechanism?
Last edited by 16F150 Plat; 08-24-2016 at 03:07 PM.
08-24-2016, 03:11 PM
#2
Grumpy Old Man
Depends on which brackets they added. Most WDHs have their own brackets for mounting the spring bars or the sway control mechanism. I'd ask the trailer manufacturer which WDH brackets they used, then buy that brand of WDH.
The lift-up brackets for the spring bars on my Strait-Line hitch work fine with my Reese Strait-Line hitch. But they would be useless for attempting to hook up my ProPride hitch.
The lift-up brackets for the spring bars on my Strait-Line hitch work fine with my Reese Strait-Line hitch. But they would be useless for attempting to hook up my ProPride hitch.
08-24-2016, 10:36 PM
#3
I don't know of any WDH that use a fixed bracket, unless those are there to put a tip up bracket on. Now if those are brackets, maybe they are thinking you would use something like a Husky, then jack the truck and trailer up as a unit to the point you can hook the chain to that slot and lower the truck down to tension the bars, but That would really take some effort.
08-26-2016, 10:22 AM
#5
Member
I don't know of any WDH that use a fixed bracket, unless those are there to put a tip up bracket on. Now if those are brackets, maybe they are thinking you would use something like a Husky, then jack the truck and trailer up as a unit to the point you can hook the chain to that slot and lower the truck down to tension the bars, but That would really take some effort.
I think that's what they are. You are going to have to get a strong tongue jack and some blocks to lift the truck high enough to make that work. You may want to cut those off(I know, I wouldn't want to either) and use the brackets from the kit you choose. AND the welded brackets may not be in the correct place! I used to tow a 16ft V nose and I had to use a Reese SC unit that didn't have any chains due to the fact that the chain bracket would be unit the V nose(wouldn't work)
08-26-2016, 12:31 PM
#6
Thanks everyone. I spoke with the manufacturer and they are intended for a chain system. I thought since it was a V-nose that I needed to get them installed before hand do to not having enough room.
It now looks I have plenty of room and will most likely cut them off. I'll be towing 2-3 times a week so ease of setup is crucial. Grrr
It now looks I have plenty of room and will most likely cut them off. I'll be towing 2-3 times a week so ease of setup is crucial. Grrr
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08-26-2016, 02:50 PM
#8
Grumpy Old Man
My ProPride requires 31" from the center of the ball to the back side of the hitch. My Reese Strait-Line requires about 31.5" from the center of the ball to the back side of the lift-up bracket.
Darling Daughter ordered a new U-nose horse trailer and a Reese Strait-Line hitch. But her trailer store could not install the Strait-Line without doing major surgery on the U-nose. So she sent the hitch back.
On yours, having the bracket already welded on doesn't mean it will be in the right place. When hooked up, the chain should be vertical from the spring bar to the bracket. If it's straight up and down but doesn't use a lift-up bracket, you can still hook it up by jacking up the tongue until you can slip the chain links on both sides over the brackets. You'll be jacking up both the tongue weight and the rear end of the tow vehicle, so it will require some effort. But it can be done. If you don't want to work that hard, you might want to ask Santa for an electric tongue jack for Christmas.
Here's a good one:
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...38-944037.html
Darling Daughter ordered a new U-nose horse trailer and a Reese Strait-Line hitch. But her trailer store could not install the Strait-Line without doing major surgery on the U-nose. So she sent the hitch back.
On yours, having the bracket already welded on doesn't mean it will be in the right place. When hooked up, the chain should be vertical from the spring bar to the bracket. If it's straight up and down but doesn't use a lift-up bracket, you can still hook it up by jacking up the tongue until you can slip the chain links on both sides over the brackets. You'll be jacking up both the tongue weight and the rear end of the tow vehicle, so it will require some effort. But it can be done. If you don't want to work that hard, you might want to ask Santa for an electric tongue jack for Christmas.
Here's a good one:
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...38-944037.html
08-26-2016, 04:25 PM
#9
My ProPride requires 31" from the center of the ball to the back side of the hitch. My Reese Strait-Line requires about 31.5" from the center of the ball to the back side of the lift-up bracket.
Darling Daughter ordered a new U-nose horse trailer and a Reese Strait-Line hitch. But her trailer store could not install the Strait-Line without doing major surgery on the U-nose. So she sent the hitch back.
On yours, having the bracket already welded on doesn't mean it will be in the right place. When hooked up, the chain should be vertical from the spring bar to the bracket. If it's straight up and down but doesn't use a lift-up bracket, you can still hook it up by jacking up the tongue until you can slip the chain links on both sides over the brackets. You'll be jacking up both the tongue weight and the rear end of the tow vehicle, so it will require some effort. But it can be done. If you don't want to work that hard, you might want to ask Santa for an electric tongue jack for Christmas.
Here's a good one:
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...38-944037.html
Darling Daughter ordered a new U-nose horse trailer and a Reese Strait-Line hitch. But her trailer store could not install the Strait-Line without doing major surgery on the U-nose. So she sent the hitch back.
On yours, having the bracket already welded on doesn't mean it will be in the right place. When hooked up, the chain should be vertical from the spring bar to the bracket. If it's straight up and down but doesn't use a lift-up bracket, you can still hook it up by jacking up the tongue until you can slip the chain links on both sides over the brackets. You'll be jacking up both the tongue weight and the rear end of the tow vehicle, so it will require some effort. But it can be done. If you don't want to work that hard, you might want to ask Santa for an electric tongue jack for Christmas.
Here's a good one:
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...38-944037.html
08-27-2016, 10:51 AM
#10
Grumpy Old Man
Yep. Any decent WD hitch is designed to allow almost a jackknife turn without the spring bars coming out of the retainer. I've never had any problem with either my ProPride or my Strait-Line hitches in not being able to back into a jackknife turn without the spring bars coming out of the retainer.