What is my real towing capacity
10-31-2014, 02:40 PM
#1
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What is my real towing capacity
I am planning to haul a 30' sailboat (8,500 Lbs) on a trailer (1,500 lbs) on a 3500 KM trip (Ontario to Alberta Canada) next spring. I have a new 2014 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost 4X4 Supercrew 145 wheel base with the following specs:
- Trailer Brake Controller
- 3.73 Electronic Lock RR Axle with 3,470 KG (7,650Lbs) GVWR Package
- Front GAWR 1,701KG (3,750 Lbs)
- Rear GAWT 1,837KG (4,050 Lbs)
- tires and Wheels are LT275/65R18C
All the info on the this F150 says it can haul up to 11,300 LBs but I am a bit confused by the various issues to consider with this such as 'wet vs dry weight', hitch weight ' etc.
anyone who can shed some light on this would sure be appreciated.
thanks'
pat
- Trailer Brake Controller
- 3.73 Electronic Lock RR Axle with 3,470 KG (7,650Lbs) GVWR Package
- Front GAWR 1,701KG (3,750 Lbs)
- Rear GAWT 1,837KG (4,050 Lbs)
- tires and Wheels are LT275/65R18C
All the info on the this F150 says it can haul up to 11,300 LBs but I am a bit confused by the various issues to consider with this such as 'wet vs dry weight', hitch weight ' etc.
anyone who can shed some light on this would sure be appreciated.
thanks'
pat
10-31-2014, 03:20 PM
#2
It sounds like you've got the Max Tow pkg, which would be really helpful.
What you really need to know is your payload capacity, which is on a sticker on the driver's side door. See the stickers from my truck below - one shows the GVWR (max weight) of the truck; the other shows the payload capacity:
However....The boat and trailer weigh 10,000 lbs, and that's probably going to be way up toward the max of your truck's limits. If you were going 50 miles it might not be too much of an issue. But if you're going 3500 KM and maybe up and over some mountains, I think you want to be comfortably below your truck's weight restriction limits.
Get down on the ground below your hitch and look up to see the hitch weight limits. Here's a picture of mine:
My 1050 lb tongue weight with a WDH is just the standard tow pkg, but your max tow truck should have a limit of 1150 lbs with a WDH.
A WDH will weigh around 100 lbs.
That leaves about 1050 to carry the tongue weight of a trailer. A 10,000 lb trailer will have a MINIMUM tongue weight of 1000 lbs, so you might be able to load the trailer such that it has a tongue weight in that range.
Another limit is the GCWR. Take a look at the sales brochure for your truck:
http://www.ford.com/services/assets/...stalCode=65613
Scroll down to about the next-to-last page. It looks like your truck has a GCWR of 16,900 lbs.
The payload capacity of your truck is on the sticker on the driver's door. It's based on your truck's empty weight (completely empty, except for a full tank of gas). You can get the empty weight of your truck by subtracting the payload capacity on that sticker from your truck's GVWR of 7,650 lbs.
What will you be carrying in the truck when you tow the boat?
If the empty weight of your truck is for example 5900 lbs, and you'll have two lightweight people (maybe 350 lbs), and you've got luggage (maybe only 50 lbs), and maybe 100 lbs of tools in the bed for changing a tire, that would bring the truck up to 6400 lbs. Subtract that from your GCWR to see if you can pull the trailer within the GCWR limit.
16,900 - 6400 = 10,500 lbs
So....If you're traveling with a pretty light load in the cab and bed of the truck, you might be within the GCWR. If you're travelling with more people and/or more stuff in the bed, then GCWR may be a restricting limit.
Bottom line.....check your door sticker for your truck's payload capacity and do the math.
I think with such a heavy load on a long cross-country trip, you'll definitely want to be within the published limits for the truck.
.
What you really need to know is your payload capacity, which is on a sticker on the driver's side door. See the stickers from my truck below - one shows the GVWR (max weight) of the truck; the other shows the payload capacity:
However....The boat and trailer weigh 10,000 lbs, and that's probably going to be way up toward the max of your truck's limits. If you were going 50 miles it might not be too much of an issue. But if you're going 3500 KM and maybe up and over some mountains, I think you want to be comfortably below your truck's weight restriction limits.
Get down on the ground below your hitch and look up to see the hitch weight limits. Here's a picture of mine:
My 1050 lb tongue weight with a WDH is just the standard tow pkg, but your max tow truck should have a limit of 1150 lbs with a WDH.
A WDH will weigh around 100 lbs.
That leaves about 1050 to carry the tongue weight of a trailer. A 10,000 lb trailer will have a MINIMUM tongue weight of 1000 lbs, so you might be able to load the trailer such that it has a tongue weight in that range.
Another limit is the GCWR. Take a look at the sales brochure for your truck:
http://www.ford.com/services/assets/...stalCode=65613
Scroll down to about the next-to-last page. It looks like your truck has a GCWR of 16,900 lbs.
The payload capacity of your truck is on the sticker on the driver's door. It's based on your truck's empty weight (completely empty, except for a full tank of gas). You can get the empty weight of your truck by subtracting the payload capacity on that sticker from your truck's GVWR of 7,650 lbs.
What will you be carrying in the truck when you tow the boat?
If the empty weight of your truck is for example 5900 lbs, and you'll have two lightweight people (maybe 350 lbs), and you've got luggage (maybe only 50 lbs), and maybe 100 lbs of tools in the bed for changing a tire, that would bring the truck up to 6400 lbs. Subtract that from your GCWR to see if you can pull the trailer within the GCWR limit.
16,900 - 6400 = 10,500 lbs
So....If you're traveling with a pretty light load in the cab and bed of the truck, you might be within the GCWR. If you're travelling with more people and/or more stuff in the bed, then GCWR may be a restricting limit.
Bottom line.....check your door sticker for your truck's payload capacity and do the math.
I think with such a heavy load on a long cross-country trip, you'll definitely want to be within the published limits for the truck.
.
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DavidKR (11-01-2014)
10-31-2014, 08:33 PM
#3
Grumpy Old Man
Hi, Pat, and WELCOME! to F150forum.
GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) = the maximum weight you can have on the two axles of the pickup without being overloaded over the hauling and braking capability of your pickup.
GCWR (gross combined weight rating) = the maximum weight on all axles of the trailer and pickup without being overloaded over the pulling capacity of your engine and drivetrain.
GAWR (gross axle weight rating) = the maximum weight on that one axle without being overloaded over the hauling capacity of that axle
Tow rating = GCWR minus the shipping weight of the basic pickup with no options, and with nothing in the pickup but a 150-pound driver and a full tank of gas. So tow ratings are overstated by the amount of weight you add for options, people, pets, tools and any other cargo in/on your tow vehicle.
Payload capacity = GVWR minus the shipping weight of the basic pickup with nothing in the pickup but full tank of gas.
Gotcha! = Hitch weight plus weight of passengers and cargo cannot cause vehicle weights to exceed GVWR or rear GAWR.
So regardless of your tow rating or payload capacity, if you exceed the GVWR or rear GAWR, you're overloaded
The most likely limiter as to trailer weight an F-150 can tow without being overloaded is the GVWR of the F-150. If you don't exceed the GVWR of the tow vehicle, then you probably won't exceed any of the other weight ratings either. Yes, your tow rating is over 11,000 pounds, but you will run out of payload capacity for hitch weight long before you reach even 10,000 pounds trailer weight.
Dry weights are almost useless information. Ignore them. Use the GVWR of the trailer as the maximum weight the trailer will weigh when wet and loaded for RVing. Use 15% of the GVWR of a travel trailer (TT) as the best estimate of the hitch weight of a wet and loaded trailer ready for camping. Use 20% of the GVWR of the fifth wheel RV trailer (5er) as the best estimate of the hitch weight of a wet and loaded trailer ready for camping.
The certified automated truck (CAT) scale is the final authority. If you exceed any axle rating per the CAT scale report, you're overloaded. If the combined weight on the front and rear axle of the tow vehicle exceeds the GVWR of the tow vehicle, you're overloaded. If the combined weight of all the axles on the truck and trailer exceeds the GCWR, you're overloaded.
For estimating the max trailer weight you can tow with your F-150 without being overloaded, load the pickup with all the people and cargo that will be in it when towing - including the hitch. Fill up with gas, then weigh the wet and loaded pickup - including driver. Subtract the weight of the wet and loaded pickup from the GVWR of the pickup and the answer is the max hitch weight you can haul. Divide that max hitch weight by 0.15 and the answer is the max GVWR of any TT you want to buy to tow with that pickup. Divide the max hitch weight by 0.20 and the answer is the max GVWR of any 5er or gooseneck trailer you want to buy to tow with that trailer.
Last edited by smokeywren; 10-31-2014 at 08:59 PM. Reason: fix oops
11-01-2014, 07:41 AM
#4
You do not need me or anyone else to tell you are at the very limit of what this truck is going to do so if you are going to attempt this than start with the best WDH money can buy. I like the old style Blue Ox with the adjustable head which can still be found for about 600 US. Next I would set it all up with truck 100% level and trailer also 100% level and then try driving it around. You may find that you will exceed your comfort level long before you exceed any sort of truck limit. Practice, practice, practice.
If you are driving along the north shore of lake Superior than you had best bring along a friend who will talk nice to you and calm you down because this is some serious territory. Very steep inclines and declines, very narrow lanes (so it will seem) and plenty of big rigs trying to keep their speed up by riding the hills like surfers. There are no run off lanes or places to pull over, gas stations are few and far between and you are also going to get hit with some really heavy buffeting off of Lake Superior. This type of scary lasts for hours and I do not envy you this trip. That is not to say it isn't a beautiful trip because it is and people take it all the time but what you are doing isn't about the beauty its about driving a heavily loaded F150 into some real tough territory. My advice to you is to dip down into the US where gas is cheap, the weather is better and the roads offer plenty of rest stops and gas stations.
If you want this truck to last than it may be best to let it rest every few hours. Just because the coolers can remove the heat and everything looks ok does not mean that wear and tear is not occurring. Your transmission will suffer most. When you do stop DO NOT shut off the engine, let it run. This will allow the coolants to flow through the coolers and cool vital components. A 10 minute run down before shutting off the engine is what I recommend.
Change the trailer bearings or at least have them serviced. The large majority of road side problems are bad trailer bearings. I'd rather hit a moose than change a trailer bearing especially if its on the drivers side. Change the trailer brakes or at least have them serviced. I think that it is obvious as to why and a F150 stands no chance of stopping an un-braked 10,000lb load.
Get membership in a good road side assistance company. Good Sam will tow not only the truck but tow the trailer as well and their top of the line coverage is 150 bucks...best insurance you ever bought. CAA offers the same type of stuff.
Make a list of all of the things that you think can go wrong and then start dealing with them. I usually make a mental list but you may want to write them down.
Numbers lie (just ask any politician) and I can tell you with 100% certainty here is a lot more to towing than numbers. Lets face it , towing 10,000lbs across the prairies is nothing like towing 10,000lbs across the north shore of Lake Superior. You may leave your house thinking that the numbers have it but numbers say nothing about the reality of it and it is the reality of it, the actual towing, that will bite you in the butt.
I am not trying to insult your intelligence or belittle your talents or experience but you asked for advice and this is mine. Believe it or not I am not trying to ruin your trip or scare you but you do need prepare yourself and I guarantee that you that you will see people broken down on the side of the road who were not as prepared as you.
One more thing, I would be very tempted to get a RAS unit. Its a very easy to install kit that supports the rear springs and reduces axle wrap. It should really help stabilize/level your rig and they are cheap ($300 US in the states). They are also super easy to put in yourself. You can either sell it when you get there or keep it.
If you are driving along the north shore of lake Superior than you had best bring along a friend who will talk nice to you and calm you down because this is some serious territory. Very steep inclines and declines, very narrow lanes (so it will seem) and plenty of big rigs trying to keep their speed up by riding the hills like surfers. There are no run off lanes or places to pull over, gas stations are few and far between and you are also going to get hit with some really heavy buffeting off of Lake Superior. This type of scary lasts for hours and I do not envy you this trip. That is not to say it isn't a beautiful trip because it is and people take it all the time but what you are doing isn't about the beauty its about driving a heavily loaded F150 into some real tough territory. My advice to you is to dip down into the US where gas is cheap, the weather is better and the roads offer plenty of rest stops and gas stations.
If you want this truck to last than it may be best to let it rest every few hours. Just because the coolers can remove the heat and everything looks ok does not mean that wear and tear is not occurring. Your transmission will suffer most. When you do stop DO NOT shut off the engine, let it run. This will allow the coolants to flow through the coolers and cool vital components. A 10 minute run down before shutting off the engine is what I recommend.
Change the trailer bearings or at least have them serviced. The large majority of road side problems are bad trailer bearings. I'd rather hit a moose than change a trailer bearing especially if its on the drivers side. Change the trailer brakes or at least have them serviced. I think that it is obvious as to why and a F150 stands no chance of stopping an un-braked 10,000lb load.
Get membership in a good road side assistance company. Good Sam will tow not only the truck but tow the trailer as well and their top of the line coverage is 150 bucks...best insurance you ever bought. CAA offers the same type of stuff.
Make a list of all of the things that you think can go wrong and then start dealing with them. I usually make a mental list but you may want to write them down.
Numbers lie (just ask any politician) and I can tell you with 100% certainty here is a lot more to towing than numbers. Lets face it , towing 10,000lbs across the prairies is nothing like towing 10,000lbs across the north shore of Lake Superior. You may leave your house thinking that the numbers have it but numbers say nothing about the reality of it and it is the reality of it, the actual towing, that will bite you in the butt.
I am not trying to insult your intelligence or belittle your talents or experience but you asked for advice and this is mine. Believe it or not I am not trying to ruin your trip or scare you but you do need prepare yourself and I guarantee that you that you will see people broken down on the side of the road who were not as prepared as you.
One more thing, I would be very tempted to get a RAS unit. Its a very easy to install kit that supports the rear springs and reduces axle wrap. It should really help stabilize/level your rig and they are cheap ($300 US in the states). They are also super easy to put in yourself. You can either sell it when you get there or keep it.
Last edited by Boulevard; 11-01-2014 at 08:08 AM.
11-01-2014, 10:53 AM
#5
Senior Member
My guess would be that while you are up there in load, the truck should be up to it. Your best check would be to drive the truck onto a weigh scale with the trailer attached and see what each truck axle is carrying. If you are within your axle limits you should be fine. If you are coming from Southern Ontario take the US route or the Northern TransCanada. That highway beside the great lakes is very scenic but bad to drive on. Once you hit Kenora it becomes pretty flat and straight after that. If you have the regular sized fuel tank you will have to be mindful of fuel stops.
11-30-2014, 12:53 AM
#6
Senior Member
Don't forget you will be slowly climbing in elevation too. The turbo's will help somewhat. Calgary is 3600 ft above sea level. Your truck will have to work very hard.
11-30-2014, 02:38 PM
#7
Once you hit the prairies be prepared to be deep into the turbo. It may be flat but the wind will buck you every step of the way and there is nothing in the way to slow it down. In spring and summer months it'almost always from the west, sw, or ssw. If you have an east wind coming through- find a rest stop because ****'s about to get real. I live in it. I can attest to how violently it can change your holiday/ travel plans. With the weight your suggesting, mother nature is going to have her way with you if you aren't careful. One area that is especially spooky is by the larger inland terminals off the highway. It will go from high wind to nothing to high wind smashing against your side. Seen many a tt wadded up from over correcting. When you pass through Swift Current snap a picture and post it up and give a shout out! Have a safe and fun trip!
Last edited by smurfs_of_war; 11-30-2014 at 02:48 PM.
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12-05-2014, 10:44 AM
#8
Senior Member
a couple of things going in your favor:
- its a boat, not a travel trailer...aerodynamics are way better. It's meant to move through water viscosity, air is a lot thinner.
- boat trailer tongue weight is usually much less than the 10-13% of a travel trailer.
- you don't really have a wet/dry weight...that's for travel trailers. If the boat is 8500lbs on the trailer, that's what it is.
Like mentioned before, I would drop down into the states and take an interstate. Boat trailers often have surge brakes, although something that large will have double axles and possibly electric brakes if it's not meant to launch the boat. If it's surge brakes, make sure they are in good working order. Plan for extra time and take it slow.
- its a boat, not a travel trailer...aerodynamics are way better. It's meant to move through water viscosity, air is a lot thinner.
- boat trailer tongue weight is usually much less than the 10-13% of a travel trailer.
- you don't really have a wet/dry weight...that's for travel trailers. If the boat is 8500lbs on the trailer, that's what it is.
Like mentioned before, I would drop down into the states and take an interstate. Boat trailers often have surge brakes, although something that large will have double axles and possibly electric brakes if it's not meant to launch the boat. If it's surge brakes, make sure they are in good working order. Plan for extra time and take it slow.
Last edited by tcp2; 12-05-2014 at 10:47 AM.
12-09-2014, 10:22 AM
#9
Senior Member
My Truck and Trailer:
TRUCK
7200 GVWR...Loaded and ready for pulling including myself and wife 6400#
Leaves 800 for tongue weight...actual is 781#
TRAILER
Dry Weight 6475
GVWR 8500
Actual Weight as used 7100# (no water in any tanks while towing)
What does all this mean?
Ford says it can pull 9600# with overall weight of truck and trailer at 15,500#
My rigs total weight is 13,500#and if I am careful I have 19# left over (to the trucks GVWR) after adding tongue weight and have an 11% tongue weight which is right at the light side limit for good towing with a WD hitch with Sway Control.
Moral of the story...it is about the actual setup and not the published numbers as to whether you are towing safely or not. I went to E Rated tires and a Wider Stance with New Wheels to add some stability (at the expense of more added weight)...and I am right on the fine line. I also run the tires at 50psi when towing...40psi when unloaded.
TRUCK
7200 GVWR...Loaded and ready for pulling including myself and wife 6400#
Leaves 800 for tongue weight...actual is 781#
TRAILER
Dry Weight 6475
GVWR 8500
Actual Weight as used 7100# (no water in any tanks while towing)
What does all this mean?
Ford says it can pull 9600# with overall weight of truck and trailer at 15,500#
My rigs total weight is 13,500#and if I am careful I have 19# left over (to the trucks GVWR) after adding tongue weight and have an 11% tongue weight which is right at the light side limit for good towing with a WD hitch with Sway Control.
Moral of the story...it is about the actual setup and not the published numbers as to whether you are towing safely or not. I went to E Rated tires and a Wider Stance with New Wheels to add some stability (at the expense of more added weight)...and I am right on the fine line. I also run the tires at 50psi when towing...40psi when unloaded.
Last edited by DieselDawg; 12-09-2014 at 10:25 AM.