johnny rocket

My 15 has a 6" lift and I'm prepping it to tow my race car this summer. Any recommendations on a good weight distribution hitch with a drop? Anyone know about how much drop is needed? Thanks

techrep

iTrader: (1)

You should not need a WDH to tow you race car on a double axle car hauler unless it’s an enclosed trailer. A 6 inch drop hitch should be perfect. You can play with the tongue weight by moving the race car forward and aft on the car hauler to get it where you need it.

johnny rocket

Ok cool

smokeywren

I strongly disagree with Techrep that you don't need a WD hitch. If your trailer will exceed 500 pounds hitch weight, then you'll overload your receiver if you don't have a WD hitch. And any properly-loaded car hauler trailer will have more than 500 pounds hitch weight with a trailer that grosses more than about 4,000 pounds. A 3,000-pound race car on a 2,000-pound trailer is a lot more than 4,000 pounds.

And without a WD hitch, you also won't have any sway control that is built into the better WD hitches. You should require excellent sway control regardless of which hitch you choose.

As to fixing the drop, if your WD hitch does not come with enough drop, you simply replace the shank part of the hitch with a shank that has more drop. The shank is also sometimes called the hitch bar. It's the part that goes into your receiver. The hitch head (ball mount and WD part of the hitch) bolts onto the shank.


If you buy a new hitch, you can buy one for a little less money that comes without a standard shank, and then specify the correct shank for your needs. The standard adjustable WD shank won't adjust for enough drop for your requirements, and they cost around $100, so you'll be wasting money if you buy a WD hitch with a standard adjustable shank.

Don't buy a cheap hitch. Get either a Reese Strait-Line trunnion bar hitch, or a Blue Ox SwayPro, or an Equal-I-Zer. They all have adjustable shanks that can be dropped a few inches, but not enough for your lifted truck.

A round bar WD hitch is cheaper, but the design means that when adjusted to have a level trailer you'll often be dragging the bottom of the hitch on the ground. If you have a choice, such as with the Reese Strait-Line, then pay the few bucks extra and get the trunnion bar design.

For example, if your trailer has electric brakes, you can buy a Reese Strait-Line WD hitch with trunnion bars rated for up to 800 pounds tongue weight that doesn't come with a shank. So you also order the correct shank for your needs.

If your trailer has surge brakes, then the Reese won't work, but the Equal-I-Zer will.

Here's the Strait-Line trunnion-bar hitch without shank:
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66073.html

And Here's a shank with over 7" drop that should work for your lifted truck:
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...se/RP3344.html

Here's the correct Equal-I-Zer hitch without shank you need if your trailer thas surge brakes:
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...EQ37101ET.html

techrep

iTrader: (1)

A properly loaded car hauler will yield you 10-15 % tongue weight... now.. if the trailer and whatever you have on it is in excess of say 5500-6K pounds ...then yes get a WDH. A car hauler will have very little sway and trailer breaks are mandatory. I have done this several times over several thousand miles and never had one problem. same thing with boat trailers...most do not require a WDH.