Travel Trailer towing-stability
01-22-2017, 11:32 AM
#41
I tow a 35' TT with my 2016 3.5EB Screw with max trailer tow package, extended range fuel tank. Reese WD hitch correctly setup made a world of difference, inflating stock Hankook tires to 45psi (90% of max tire pressure) helped. Upgrading to BFG KO2's (either D or E rated LT tires) in the spring to complete the setup before camping season starts.
I am in the same boat as you - 95% of my driving is with passengers only, some light hauling. Motor is fantastic, current tires are a bit squirmy. It is a big trailer - it is influenced by traffic and wind regardless. When packing I am careful on weight distribution, and plan routes that compliment my planned speed.
I am in the same boat as you - 95% of my driving is with passengers only, some light hauling. Motor is fantastic, current tires are a bit squirmy. It is a big trailer - it is influenced by traffic and wind regardless. When packing I am careful on weight distribution, and plan routes that compliment my planned speed.
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acdii (01-22-2017)
01-22-2017, 12:22 PM
#42
Senior Member
Rule I used when shopping, take the GCWR and subtract the GVWR of the truck to get the GVWR of the trailer, then take 13% of that for the tongue weight, and subtract that from your payload. On my truck that limited me to 7600 pounds, and then I forgot to subtract the family(oops), so I was 400 over GVWR of the truck. I also limited it to under 30' length mainly due to having a short bed, and knowing that a short tow vehicle and long trailer can add up to a sway monster.
I can say that once I got the WDH setup correctly the truck towed the trailer very nicely, very little sway on a very windy day, no push pull from semi's, and no bouncy bouncy either. When I first brought it home, the dealer did not setup the hitch and it was a handful, bounced like crazy and sway was horrible, and I thought I made a huge error, but once I got it home and did the measurements myself I found the hitch was way off on both height and angle. I also added one sway bar to it.
I can say that once I got the WDH setup correctly the truck towed the trailer very nicely, very little sway on a very windy day, no push pull from semi's, and no bouncy bouncy either. When I first brought it home, the dealer did not setup the hitch and it was a handful, bounced like crazy and sway was horrible, and I thought I made a huge error, but once I got it home and did the measurements myself I found the hitch was way off on both height and angle. I also added one sway bar to it.
17,100(GCWR) - 5,185 (truck GVWR) = 11,915 leftover.
11,915 * 0.13 = 1,549 which is over my hitch rating and once I add 400lbs of family, WD hitch and stuff I'll be over my payload too.
I was taking a more conservative approach and using the weakest link - my hitch rating (1,210 / 0.14) and saying my max trailer can't be anymore then 8,642 lbs @ 14% which would give me 655 lbs remaining for payload (I.E. family, hitch and stuff).
7,050 GVWR - 5,185 (truck curb weight) - 1,210lbs tongue = 655 lbs remaining payload.
This way by default I'd be under GCWR too (5,185 + 655 + 1,210 + 8,642 = 15,692) - which is well under my 17,100 GCWR.
Last edited by Magnetic157; 01-22-2017 at 12:30 PM.
01-22-2017, 01:18 PM
#43
Yeah, those high GCWR numbers can only be done if you are pulling a 4 on the floor with a draw bar such as a hay wagon or a tanker. There is no other possible way to pull that much weight properly without overloading the hitch.
Another way to figure it out, take your payload, subtract occupants and cargo and multiply the remainder by 13%(I think, I suck at most math) to get your trailer weight range. I haven't figured what my new trucks trailer range is, but since it has 100# more payload I will have no problem towing what I have.
Another way to figure it out, take your payload, subtract occupants and cargo and multiply the remainder by 13%(I think, I suck at most math) to get your trailer weight range. I haven't figured what my new trucks trailer range is, but since it has 100# more payload I will have no problem towing what I have.
01-22-2017, 01:30 PM
#44
Senior Member
That still puts it over - which is why I start with my weakest link (hitch rating)
1,865 payload - 500lbs (hitch, family, cargo) = 1,365 which is over my hitch rating of 1,210.
IMO if you start with your lowest rating you can't over weigh yourself.
1,210 / tongue percentage = my max trailer rate. This gives me plenty of wiggle room for payload and GCWR. This may not be the case for everyone, but it is for me and my setup.
1,865 payload - 500lbs (hitch, family, cargo) = 1,365 which is over my hitch rating of 1,210.
IMO if you start with your lowest rating you can't over weigh yourself.
1,210 / tongue percentage = my max trailer rate. This gives me plenty of wiggle room for payload and GCWR. This may not be the case for everyone, but it is for me and my setup.
Last edited by Magnetic157; 01-22-2017 at 01:37 PM.
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Ricktwuhk (01-22-2017)
01-22-2017, 07:23 PM
#45
AH, I remember how I did it, subtract cargo from payload, then multiply a trailers GVWR by 13%. So on mine, 1470-500=970. Trailer GVWR I am interested in, 7200#
7200*13%=930#
So fully loaded it would put 930 pounds on the truck, and as it worked out, it was much less than GVWR with all our stuff wet, and came out to roughly 11.5% TW, right about 700 pounds on the truck. It towed very well at 11.5% too.
Where I miscalculated was the weight of the family and cargo. Was closer to 700#.
It also turns out my trucks empty weight plus payload was actually over the GVWR.
It is always a good idea to weigh the truck with a full tank and driver to get the actual weight and subtract that from the GVWR to verify that the payload sticker is accurate.
7200*13%=930#
So fully loaded it would put 930 pounds on the truck, and as it worked out, it was much less than GVWR with all our stuff wet, and came out to roughly 11.5% TW, right about 700 pounds on the truck. It towed very well at 11.5% too.
Where I miscalculated was the weight of the family and cargo. Was closer to 700#.
It also turns out my trucks empty weight plus payload was actually over the GVWR.
It is always a good idea to weigh the truck with a full tank and driver to get the actual weight and subtract that from the GVWR to verify that the payload sticker is accurate.
01-23-2017, 11:36 AM
#46
AH, I remember how I did it, subtract cargo from payload, then multiply a trailers GVWR by 13%. So on mine, 1470-500=970. Trailer GVWR I am interested in, 7200#
7200*13%=930#
So fully loaded it would put 930 pounds on the truck, and as it worked out, it was much less than GVWR with all our stuff wet, and came out to roughly 11.5% TW, right about 700 pounds on the truck. It towed very well at 11.5% too.
Where I miscalculated was the weight of the family and cargo. Was closer to 700#.
It also turns out my trucks empty weight plus payload was actually over the GVWR.
It is always a good idea to weigh the truck with a full tank and driver to get the actual weight and subtract that from the GVWR to verify that the payload sticker is accurate.
7200*13%=930#
So fully loaded it would put 930 pounds on the truck, and as it worked out, it was much less than GVWR with all our stuff wet, and came out to roughly 11.5% TW, right about 700 pounds on the truck. It towed very well at 11.5% too.
Where I miscalculated was the weight of the family and cargo. Was closer to 700#.
It also turns out my trucks empty weight plus payload was actually over the GVWR.
It is always a good idea to weigh the truck with a full tank and driver to get the actual weight and subtract that from the GVWR to verify that the payload sticker is accurate.
01-23-2017, 09:37 PM
#47
My miscalculation was the passengers. 
Just don't tell my wife and mother.
Just don't tell my wife and mother.
