Trailer tongue height from ground.
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techrat (09-24-2013)
09-23-2013, 03:12 PM
#3
Grumpy Old Man
Yep, you want the floor of the trailer level (front to rear.) Then if the receiver is too high, you need a "drop" ball mount, or if the receiver is too low you need a "rise" ball mount. For a weight-distributing hitch, you need an adjustable shank that includes both rise and drop up to around 4" each..
09-25-2013, 03:02 AM
#4
HOW TO ADJUST BALL & HITCH TRAILER HEIGHT
(This might be helpful for 1st time trailer owners!)
1. Adjust the trailer jack until it measures level to the ground from the front of the frame to the rear of the frame & measure the ball socket on the hitch/or get the accurate ball height from the manufacturer.
2. If... you have an adjustable hitch head adjust it to as close as you can to that ball height. *When in doubt go to the next highest adjustment hole.
3. Hook the trailer on to your ball and let it down enough to free up the hitch lock, & that will let the hitch lock slide forward & lock. Make sure it is locked.
4. Hold the desired link in your fingers so the first two or three links drop out of the way hanging down and don't get jammed in the chain on the hook. Lift up the bars and put pressure on the bars.
5. Now stand back and look at the trailer & truck. The goal is to have the frame of the trailer "slightly" lower in the front & the frame of the truck level. Try repeating the process and "dropping" different numbers of links to get to that goal. If a ridiculous amount of pressure is necessary to get the front of the trailer & the rear of the truck up you may not have enough spring for the tongue weight. Hopefully that will not be a problem, not likely. If it is, I recommend a set of standard overload springs like you find on 1 ton trucks. Why? Because overloads will not affect the ride of your truck until enough weight is put on the hitch (the trailer weight) while you are driving around town. Other types of springs stiffen up the ride all the time!
6. One last note, make sure the angle of the adjustable head is right vertically. Hopefully the people who sold you the trailer should have set that up right. The angle of the head will make the equalizer bars more or less parallel to the ground and therefore put more or less pressure on the chains lifting the trailer. *The more the hitch head leans forward towards the truck bumper & 90 degrees the more level horizonally the bars will be creating less lifting pressure on the chains. Usually you want the hitch head tilted away from the truck a little and the bars running slightly downward from the truck. A good hitch place can help you with that if you get confused.
7. Get a friction sway bar (or two if necessary/ they go on reversed in position on each side of the "A" frame) and learn to adjust it based on wind and driving condition. I keep them fairly tight when windy! Loosen it completely when backing up the trailer or turning very sharply or it will fight you especially in dirt or gravel.
8. Make sure the hitch on the truck is rated for the tongue weight! I bent the hell out of a GM hitch and had to replace it on a trip because it would not hold a 900 lb. hitch weight!
Do this and you'll find out what's what! It will probably turn out just fine!
Hope this helps! It took a lot of typing so send me 5¢! Somebody helped me years ago when I first started towing and he's gone now. Now, it's my turn!
(This might be helpful for 1st time trailer owners!)
1. Adjust the trailer jack until it measures level to the ground from the front of the frame to the rear of the frame & measure the ball socket on the hitch/or get the accurate ball height from the manufacturer.
2. If... you have an adjustable hitch head adjust it to as close as you can to that ball height. *When in doubt go to the next highest adjustment hole.
3. Hook the trailer on to your ball and let it down enough to free up the hitch lock, & that will let the hitch lock slide forward & lock. Make sure it is locked.
4. Hold the desired link in your fingers so the first two or three links drop out of the way hanging down and don't get jammed in the chain on the hook. Lift up the bars and put pressure on the bars.
5. Now stand back and look at the trailer & truck. The goal is to have the frame of the trailer "slightly" lower in the front & the frame of the truck level. Try repeating the process and "dropping" different numbers of links to get to that goal. If a ridiculous amount of pressure is necessary to get the front of the trailer & the rear of the truck up you may not have enough spring for the tongue weight. Hopefully that will not be a problem, not likely. If it is, I recommend a set of standard overload springs like you find on 1 ton trucks. Why? Because overloads will not affect the ride of your truck until enough weight is put on the hitch (the trailer weight) while you are driving around town. Other types of springs stiffen up the ride all the time!
6. One last note, make sure the angle of the adjustable head is right vertically. Hopefully the people who sold you the trailer should have set that up right. The angle of the head will make the equalizer bars more or less parallel to the ground and therefore put more or less pressure on the chains lifting the trailer. *The more the hitch head leans forward towards the truck bumper & 90 degrees the more level horizonally the bars will be creating less lifting pressure on the chains. Usually you want the hitch head tilted away from the truck a little and the bars running slightly downward from the truck. A good hitch place can help you with that if you get confused.
7. Get a friction sway bar (or two if necessary/ they go on reversed in position on each side of the "A" frame) and learn to adjust it based on wind and driving condition. I keep them fairly tight when windy! Loosen it completely when backing up the trailer or turning very sharply or it will fight you especially in dirt or gravel.
8. Make sure the hitch on the truck is rated for the tongue weight! I bent the hell out of a GM hitch and had to replace it on a trip because it would not hold a 900 lb. hitch weight!
Do this and you'll find out what's what! It will probably turn out just fine!
Hope this helps! It took a lot of typing so send me 5¢! Somebody helped me years ago when I first started towing and he's gone now. Now, it's my turn!
Last edited by opinyawn; 09-25-2013 at 03:41 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Sammy77 (09-25-2013)
09-25-2013, 03:07 AM
#5
Some Tips For Newbies Towing Trailers
I've towed travel trailers for 46 years from small ones to very large ones so I think I understand the basics pretty well. I've been across the entire U.S. in most every state multiple times and never had an accident. Here are some tips for newbies and maybe oldies too:
I had a GM truck and put a 900 lb. tongue weight on it and bent the factory receiver with a 30' travel trailer. I had to buy the heaviest type receiver on the road to correct the situation. Don't overload the tongue weight of the receiver. Make sure it is rated to take the full tongue weight and.... it is always nice to have a little extra rating for safety.
Sway Control & Spring Bars: I prefer the older style friction sway bars because they can be adjusted to conditions and then all the resistance taken off when backing up and parking. Backing up and parking if you have to make sharp turns can be a problem when you have a soft or slippery surface if the sway system is always engaged. It can cause the trailer to resist turning and simply having the wheels slide. The older friction type sway bars do require you have a brain and adjust them to conditions and not simply depend on them adjusting themselves. On the larger trailers I would use two sway controls with one on each side of the A frame.
Spring bars should not be heavier than necessary as they will hurt the ride of the rig! Heavier isn't better! Too heavy a spring bar keeps the rig from normally flexing when you hit soft dips in the road. The spring bars act as a spring as well so they can be too heavy. The spring bar just has to be heavy enough to bring the front of the trailer up to approximately level. More than that is a negative. Some RV stores will push too heavy a spring bar because that is what is in stock... or they are ignorant.
With ball and hitch types, make sure that the front of the trailer is slightly lower than the rear! Just enough that you can see it standing back at a distance. A ball & hitch setup up where the trailer is completely level or higher in the front will sway dangerously especially if you have to change lanes in a panic.
A ball & hitch setup is just as safe as a 5th Wheel, but must be setup properly. A ball & hitch setup tracks closer to the path of the tow vehicle and a 5th wheel cuts in closer to the turn so they require wider turning arcs not to hit telephone posts!
Easy on the grease on the ball and other parts! Too much grease attracts dirt/sand/rocks and causes wear. Clean the grease off regularly and reapply because it will get sand in it and wear parts! I put a little on all wear areas even on the hook the chain goes on. WD 40 on springs doesn't hurt now and then.
When backing up put one hand at the "bottom" of the steering wheel and then the direction that hand moves will be the same as the direction the rear of the trailer moves. I avoids confusion.
When pulling away the last thing you do is walk all around the trailer in a 360 degree circle. It will keep you from forgetting something safety wise, or leaving a camping chair you thought you loaded.
When unhooking a ball & hitch trailer the chains should come off last for safety so it can't roll away when un loading. You should unhook a trailer in exact reverse order of hooking it up! It will keep you out of trouble! The only exception might be putting on the safety chains if you are worried the trailer might move when hooking up.
When you put a chain link on the brackets first untwist the chain so it is straight and then hold the link you've chosen to put on the hook and let the links "before it" hang down as you put the link on the hook. It will avoid problems in the chain getting jammed up.
When backing up, parking, hooking up, etc. .... NEVER LET SOMEONE RUSH YOU.... let them wait! Nice people won't rush you and the hell with the rest! Getting someone irritated because you are taking too much time beats having an accident. DON'T LET PEOPLE RUSH YOU AND SAFETY FIRST! If you have a wife, teach her to work with you helping you back up as a team. Remember she may have to do this stuff by herself too... so teach her everything in case you get sick or hurt on a RV trip! I find having someone point the direction have have to go and showing you how close you are by holding your hands apart showing the distance is better than saying "Go to your left.... or you have plenty of room!" The problem is.... whose left do you mean.... and what does plenty of room mean??? Pointing or showing the distance with your hands is less confusing. In backing up listen to only one person! Train you & the wife to use clear communication/hand signals that cannot be misinterepreted.
Example: Have the wife stand so you can see her in the mirror & point the direction you need to go (not say Left/Right) and also show distances by gradually closing her hands until they touch each other like patty cake when rather than saying about 2 ft.!
If you are unsure.... get out and walk a route! It can save you having to back up a long, hairy distance after going someplace with no outlet.
Put your hand at the bottom of the wheel and the direction you hand goes is the direction the rear of the trailer goes. Remember to loosen the sway bar when backing up sharply!
When the trailer starts going wrong it is usually easier to pull forward until your are straightened and then start over again.
For lining up with a hitch, put a sticker/mark on your trailer that is directly over the ball when you turn around “normally” and look through the rear window. Use it like a gun sight.
Ball & hitch trailers should always be “slightly” lower in the front. Being high in the front causes swaying!
Know EXACTLY the height of the trailer including the AC unit for going under low overpasses! In the East some can be very low.
I'd rather risk getting a ticket than always being in the extreme right lane when idiots are pulling in front of you getting on highways at 50 MPH in heavy traffic! They don't consider your stopping distances.
Watch the 18 wheelers! They usually know where to slow down to avoid tickets! Flash your high beams when they pull around you to let them know the have cleared the front of your rig and can pull in front of you safely. Most will do the same to you! Courtesy!
Remember to turn off water pumps as they may come on when water is low and you go around corners & can burn out!
Always walk around a trailer one last time before you leave a campground. You’ll lose less equipment & tools that way!
Be careful where you store trailers! I've seen mice completely destroy a trailer so it had to go to the junkyard!
Use GE Type 2 (Outdoor) Silicone for vents. etc. It lasts nearly forever where the RV putty dries out and then leaks down the road. Clean areas with vinegar as it makes silicone seal better. Just razor blade silicone off if necessary.
The new Sat Navigation units are nice as mine shows you how many lanes there are at interchanges so you can be ready and not miss the turn or worry about which lane you need to be in. When towing a trailer you need to think ahead because you can't just whip all over the place. Be ready for the next turn!
If you are buying a new truck, make sure it has trailer towing mirrors and built in brake controller. The Ford built in brake controllers are far smoother than after market ones.
Hope this helps newbies! Say thank you.... this was a lot of typing! LOL!
I've towed travel trailers for 46 years from small ones to very large ones so I think I understand the basics pretty well. I've been across the entire U.S. in most every state multiple times and never had an accident. Here are some tips for newbies and maybe oldies too:
I had a GM truck and put a 900 lb. tongue weight on it and bent the factory receiver with a 30' travel trailer. I had to buy the heaviest type receiver on the road to correct the situation. Don't overload the tongue weight of the receiver. Make sure it is rated to take the full tongue weight and.... it is always nice to have a little extra rating for safety.
Sway Control & Spring Bars: I prefer the older style friction sway bars because they can be adjusted to conditions and then all the resistance taken off when backing up and parking. Backing up and parking if you have to make sharp turns can be a problem when you have a soft or slippery surface if the sway system is always engaged. It can cause the trailer to resist turning and simply having the wheels slide. The older friction type sway bars do require you have a brain and adjust them to conditions and not simply depend on them adjusting themselves. On the larger trailers I would use two sway controls with one on each side of the A frame.
Spring bars should not be heavier than necessary as they will hurt the ride of the rig! Heavier isn't better! Too heavy a spring bar keeps the rig from normally flexing when you hit soft dips in the road. The spring bars act as a spring as well so they can be too heavy. The spring bar just has to be heavy enough to bring the front of the trailer up to approximately level. More than that is a negative. Some RV stores will push too heavy a spring bar because that is what is in stock... or they are ignorant.
With ball and hitch types, make sure that the front of the trailer is slightly lower than the rear! Just enough that you can see it standing back at a distance. A ball & hitch setup up where the trailer is completely level or higher in the front will sway dangerously especially if you have to change lanes in a panic.
A ball & hitch setup is just as safe as a 5th Wheel, but must be setup properly. A ball & hitch setup tracks closer to the path of the tow vehicle and a 5th wheel cuts in closer to the turn so they require wider turning arcs not to hit telephone posts! Easy on the grease on the ball and other parts! Too much grease attracts dirt/sand/rocks and causes wear. Clean the grease off regularly and reapply because it will get sand in it and wear parts! I put a little on all wear areas even on the hook the chain goes on. WD 40 on springs doesn't hurt now and then.
When backing up put one hand at the "bottom" of the steering wheel and then the direction that hand moves will be the same as the direction the rear of the trailer moves. I avoids confusion.
When pulling away the last thing you do is walk all around the trailer in a 360 degree circle. It will keep you from forgetting something safety wise, or leaving a camping chair you thought you loaded.
When unhooking a ball & hitch trailer the chains should come off last for safety so it can't roll away when un loading. You should unhook a trailer in exact reverse order of hooking it up! It will keep you out of trouble! The only exception might be putting on the safety chains if you are worried the trailer might move when hooking up.
When you put a chain link on the brackets first untwist the chain so it is straight and then hold the link you've chosen to put on the hook and let the links "before it" hang down as you put the link on the hook. It will avoid problems in the chain getting jammed up.
When backing up, parking, hooking up, etc. .... NEVER LET SOMEONE RUSH YOU.... let them wait! Nice people won't rush you and the hell with the rest! Getting someone irritated because you are taking too much time beats having an accident. DON'T LET PEOPLE RUSH YOU AND SAFETY FIRST! If you have a wife, teach her to work with you helping you back up as a team. Remember she may have to do this stuff by herself too... so teach her everything in case you get sick or hurt on a RV trip! I find having someone point the direction have have to go and showing you how close you are by holding your hands apart showing the distance is better than saying "Go to your left.... or you have plenty of room!" The problem is.... whose left do you mean.... and what does plenty of room mean??? Pointing or showing the distance with your hands is less confusing. In backing up listen to only one person! Train you & the wife to use clear communication/hand signals that cannot be misinterepreted.
Example: Have the wife stand so you can see her in the mirror & point the direction you need to go (not say Left/Right) and also show distances by gradually closing her hands until they touch each other like patty cake when rather than saying about 2 ft.!
If you are unsure.... get out and walk a route! It can save you having to back up a long, hairy distance after going someplace with no outlet.
Put your hand at the bottom of the wheel and the direction you hand goes is the direction the rear of the trailer goes. Remember to loosen the sway bar when backing up sharply!
When the trailer starts going wrong it is usually easier to pull forward until your are straightened and then start over again.
For lining up with a hitch, put a sticker/mark on your trailer that is directly over the ball when you turn around “normally” and look through the rear window. Use it like a gun sight.
Ball & hitch trailers should always be “slightly” lower in the front. Being high in the front causes swaying!
Know EXACTLY the height of the trailer including the AC unit for going under low overpasses! In the East some can be very low.
I'd rather risk getting a ticket than always being in the extreme right lane when idiots are pulling in front of you getting on highways at 50 MPH in heavy traffic! They don't consider your stopping distances.
Watch the 18 wheelers! They usually know where to slow down to avoid tickets! Flash your high beams when they pull around you to let them know the have cleared the front of your rig and can pull in front of you safely. Most will do the same to you! Courtesy!
Remember to turn off water pumps as they may come on when water is low and you go around corners & can burn out!
Always walk around a trailer one last time before you leave a campground. You’ll lose less equipment & tools that way!
Be careful where you store trailers! I've seen mice completely destroy a trailer so it had to go to the junkyard!
Use GE Type 2 (Outdoor) Silicone for vents. etc. It lasts nearly forever where the RV putty dries out and then leaks down the road. Clean areas with vinegar as it makes silicone seal better. Just razor blade silicone off if necessary.
The new Sat Navigation units are nice as mine shows you how many lanes there are at interchanges so you can be ready and not miss the turn or worry about which lane you need to be in. When towing a trailer you need to think ahead because you can't just whip all over the place. Be ready for the next turn!
If you are buying a new truck, make sure it has trailer towing mirrors and built in brake controller. The Ford built in brake controllers are far smoother than after market ones.
Hope this helps newbies! Say thank you.... this was a lot of typing! LOL!
Last edited by opinyawn; 09-25-2013 at 03:43 AM.
09-25-2013, 08:04 AM
#6
Senior Member
A lot of good advice opinyawn, but I disagree on a couple of points:
When adjusting the WDH, the objective is not to get the truck level. That's the old way. The recommendations have changed just in the last few years. Ford's (and others) want you to reduce the truck's front end lift by 50% to 100%. The rear end may sag a little bit. The front may lift a little bit. That's how the trucks are designed to work.
As for silicone caulk, I've stopped using it. A good polyurethane caulk or Dicor RV sealant or 3m Marine 4002 are better. One big problem with silicone is that nothing else will stick to it and it doesn't stick all that well. And when you later have to make a more substantial repair using something like Eternabond tape, you gotta spend a lot of time cleaning off every little bit of silicone.
Just my $0.02
When adjusting the WDH, the objective is not to get the truck level. That's the old way. The recommendations have changed just in the last few years. Ford's (and others) want you to reduce the truck's front end lift by 50% to 100%. The rear end may sag a little bit. The front may lift a little bit. That's how the trucks are designed to work.
As for silicone caulk, I've stopped using it. A good polyurethane caulk or Dicor RV sealant or 3m Marine 4002 are better. One big problem with silicone is that nothing else will stick to it and it doesn't stick all that well. And when you later have to make a more substantial repair using something like Eternabond tape, you gotta spend a lot of time cleaning off every little bit of silicone.
Just my $0.02
09-25-2013, 11:50 AM
#7
Grumpy Old Man
http://www.propridehitch.com/product...ol-Hitch-.html
If you already have a WD hitch, you may be able to add the dual-cam sway control system for a coupla hundred bucks.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP26002.html
But usually you need to buy the WD hitch with built-in sway control system, such as the Reese Strait-Line WD hitch with dual-cam sway control, or the ProPride 3P.