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Old 02-13-2014, 01:49 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Fez View Post
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The new controller registers 10 volts if worked manually (controls on dashboard) and only 5 to 6 volts when using the truck brake. The dealer thought they had received another defective controller. They tested 3 new trucks on the lot with the same results. Ford states this is appropriate. I won’t have the opportunity to tow the trailer again for about 6 weeks to test the effectiveness of the new controller. Does it seem reasonable to you, the experts, that the controller would only output 5 to 6 volts when using the vehicle brake? Thoughts/comments?
2013 EB SCREW MaxTow

One of the nice features of the built-in Ford brake controller is that it adjusts its output to the speed you are traveling. So when the truck is at rest, only a few volts is there. But at higher speeds, in theory, you will get the full voltage.

It works well for me. My old Prodigy controller had to be set high for highway speeds, then lowered when pulling in for gas, or else the trailer would jerk whenever I touched the brakes.

But I too have the setting all the way up to 10 on the new controller. It brings the truck to a rapid halt on pavement but doesn't lock up the brakes. The brakes do lockup on gravel. I'll be checking the brake adjust ment soon and maybe after that I'll get it to lock up on pavement.
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Old 02-16-2014, 02:52 PM   #22
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I briefly skimmed the treads so I apologize if this has already been mentioned.

Depending on the style of breaks you have on your unit you may want to check the owners manual for proper adjustments of the physical brake itself.

It's been last year since I've read the owners manual for the trailer brakes on my '13 Jayco, I don't remember the exact stats. It mentions the brakes require ####km or ## of medium pressure stops to properly seat the brakes. Once you've reach the requirements there is a procedure listed for how to properly adjust the brakes by jacking up the trailer and using a brake tool.

When I first hooked my truck up to my trailer I was in the same boat, 10 wasn't high enough. After I adjusted the breaks as per the manufacturer I was able to knock it down to 6.5-7 is depending. I think it may also depend on the temperature of the breaks when doing the test?

There are quite a few videos on YouTube for adjusting breaks... Here's one.


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Old 02-17-2014, 09:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinson View Post
I briefly skimmed the treads so I apologize if this has already been mentioned.

Depending on the style of breaks you have on your unit you may want to check the owners manual for proper adjustments of the physical brake itself.

It's been last year since I've read the owners manual for the trailer brakes on my '13 Jayco, I don't remember the exact stats. It mentions the brakes require ####km or ## of medium pressure stops to properly seat the brakes. Once you've reach the requirements there is a procedure listed for how to properly adjust the brakes by jacking up the trailer and using a brake tool.

When I first hooked my truck up to my trailer I was in the same boat, 10 wasn't high enough. After I adjusted the breaks as per the manufacturer I was able to knock it down to 6.5-7 is depending. I think it may also depend on the temperature of the breaks when doing the test?

There are quite a few videos on YouTube for adjusting breaks... Here's one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Tf1Bc526zE

Rob
Yes, certainly something to check for those who haven't. I hoped that was the issue in my situation. It was not. Some trailer brakes will not lock on pavement when fully loaded.

Also, as far as the other comments about voltage, in my experience, it will output full voltage if you use the manual slider to apply them with gain set at 10. But, this is when connected to a trailer. Not sure what it does with no load. Another thing to note is that the voltage back by the trailer brakes will probably be closer to 10 volts or even worse if you have marginal wiring like mine did.
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