Towing a car trailer with car first time questions
12-08-2015, 10:12 AM
#1
I'd rather be sailing.
Thread Starter
Towing a car trailer with car first time questions
Good morning Ford brain trust!
My son just enlisted me to go retrieve a Nissan 280Z that is not running. We will be going to get it tomorrow Dec 7. Total round trip is just shy of 300 miles. No big mountain passes.
First of all, I've towed a LOT. But never a car trailer with car.
Questions
1) What sized tie down straps should I get as I'm sure my son will show up with those tiny little red straps. I've read 2.5 - 3 inch is adequate. I will tie all 4 corners.
2) I've read about crossing the straps diagonally and also read about straight to closest ring on trailer outside of car foot print. Anyone with practical experience here want to chime in?
3) Load the suspension or unload when strapping down? Again, practical experienced towers are requested to chime in. FYI: this is NOT a show car. Just an old ride picked up on the cheap.
4) Any one with experience wishing to drop practical advice that I have not asked about specific to car trailer and car towing PLEASE feel free to offer up!
Thanks in advance to the Ford Brain Trust!
Now off to the datson forums to see if there is anything weird about towing a 280Z LOL!
Scott
My son just enlisted me to go retrieve a Nissan 280Z that is not running. We will be going to get it tomorrow Dec 7. Total round trip is just shy of 300 miles. No big mountain passes.
First of all, I've towed a LOT. But never a car trailer with car.
Questions
1) What sized tie down straps should I get as I'm sure my son will show up with those tiny little red straps. I've read 2.5 - 3 inch is adequate. I will tie all 4 corners.
2) I've read about crossing the straps diagonally and also read about straight to closest ring on trailer outside of car foot print. Anyone with practical experience here want to chime in?
3) Load the suspension or unload when strapping down? Again, practical experienced towers are requested to chime in. FYI: this is NOT a show car. Just an old ride picked up on the cheap.
4) Any one with experience wishing to drop practical advice that I have not asked about specific to car trailer and car towing PLEASE feel free to offer up!
Thanks in advance to the Ford Brain Trust!
Now off to the datson forums to see if there is anything weird about towing a 280Z LOL!
Scott
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sigma pi (12-17-2015)
12-08-2015, 06:44 PM
#2
Grumpy Old Man
Today, December 8, 2015, 9:12 AM
Towing a car trailer with car first time questions
Good morning Ford brain trust!
My son just enlisted me to go retrieve a Nissan 280Z that is not running. We will be going to get it tomorrow Dec 7.
Towing a car trailer with car first time questions
Good morning Ford brain trust!
My son just enlisted me to go retrieve a Nissan 280Z that is not running. We will be going to get it tomorrow Dec 7.
Is there a typo in there? You posted on Dec 8 that you will be leaving on Dec 7.
Last edited by smokeywren; 12-08-2015 at 06:47 PM.
12-08-2015, 07:01 PM
#3
Senior Member
There's a couple ways to tie down. Don't go by the strap width though, look at the rated tag. I try to go 2-3 times the weight of what I'm hauling on the strap if I use it - for example; 2500lb vehicle no less than 5k lb capable strap. I'm not sure how the frame looks under a 280Z. On most vehicles I use the frame to load the suspension. Do not tie to a solid axle or any suspension parts like control arms. You can damage the vehicle and possibly lose the load at speed if the strap is cut.
Preloading the suspension takes a lot of the bounce out of the car. You'll still have some, but nowhere near what it could be.
If you decide to use chains and binders, make sure you bring wire to secure the arm in place. Doesn't matter if it's the ratchet style or breakover style, the wire will keep the binder from loosening.
The other thing is placement of the car. Depending on the length of your trailer, you can put it nose first or rear first. Just make sure you have a fairly balanced load with slight toungue weight.
I would personally use 4 individual straps. 2 crossed in front and the back pulling to the outside of the car (not crossing).
Preloading the suspension takes a lot of the bounce out of the car. You'll still have some, but nowhere near what it could be.
If you decide to use chains and binders, make sure you bring wire to secure the arm in place. Doesn't matter if it's the ratchet style or breakover style, the wire will keep the binder from loosening.
The other thing is placement of the car. Depending on the length of your trailer, you can put it nose first or rear first. Just make sure you have a fairly balanced load with slight toungue weight.
I would personally use 4 individual straps. 2 crossed in front and the back pulling to the outside of the car (not crossing).
12-08-2015, 08:49 PM
#5
Senior Member
Lots of practical experience here hauling race cars.
Look at the rating on the strap, not its width. Overkill is good but keep in mind that each strap is carrying about 1/4 of the weight of the car. Over kill is good in case one fails.
Always tie to a low suspension point, in the rear this would be the axle, in the front the lower control arms. Cross both front and rear straps. This limits side to side movement of the car. The straighter the strap, this easier it is for the vehicle to move side to side, especially in an emergency maneuver.
Do not attempt to pre load suspension. Strap low on the vehicle and use a far away mount on the trailer to limit the straps becoming loose on bumps when the suspension travels. The more level the strap the less it can loosen when the suspension moves. It is nearly impossible to preload the suspension as you would with a motorcycle.
Stop and check your straps early, especially after the more stop and go traffic in town and prior to hitting to highway. Snug as needed at this point.
I have, on many occasions, had to stop and help guys restrain there cars after they moved on the trailer do to not following best practice in strapping as I have noted above. Consider my advice above and think logically as to way it is done that way and it will make perfect sense.
Watch placement on the trailer. Try to center the car over the axles of the trailer. That car has the engine in the front so will be slightly front heavy, which is what you want. Some tongue weight but not too much. Too much rear weight and the trailer will sway. Too much and the front and the truck will squat too much unweighting the front wheels of the tow vehicle. Don't be afraid to move the car once on the trailer to get everything looking and feeling right.
Carry at least one trailer spare, I always had two. Check trailer tire pressures, better a little high than low. With the weight of the car, unless a really heavy duty trailer, air up near max tire pressure.
Take you time and stop to check as soon as something feels odd or like it moved.
Look at the rating on the strap, not its width. Overkill is good but keep in mind that each strap is carrying about 1/4 of the weight of the car. Over kill is good in case one fails.
Always tie to a low suspension point, in the rear this would be the axle, in the front the lower control arms. Cross both front and rear straps. This limits side to side movement of the car. The straighter the strap, this easier it is for the vehicle to move side to side, especially in an emergency maneuver.
Do not attempt to pre load suspension. Strap low on the vehicle and use a far away mount on the trailer to limit the straps becoming loose on bumps when the suspension travels. The more level the strap the less it can loosen when the suspension moves. It is nearly impossible to preload the suspension as you would with a motorcycle.
Stop and check your straps early, especially after the more stop and go traffic in town and prior to hitting to highway. Snug as needed at this point.
I have, on many occasions, had to stop and help guys restrain there cars after they moved on the trailer do to not following best practice in strapping as I have noted above. Consider my advice above and think logically as to way it is done that way and it will make perfect sense.
Watch placement on the trailer. Try to center the car over the axles of the trailer. That car has the engine in the front so will be slightly front heavy, which is what you want. Some tongue weight but not too much. Too much rear weight and the trailer will sway. Too much and the front and the truck will squat too much unweighting the front wheels of the tow vehicle. Don't be afraid to move the car once on the trailer to get everything looking and feeling right.
Carry at least one trailer spare, I always had two. Check trailer tire pressures, better a little high than low. With the weight of the car, unless a really heavy duty trailer, air up near max tire pressure.
Take you time and stop to check as soon as something feels odd or like it moved.
Last edited by Dirttracker18; 12-09-2015 at 11:18 AM.
12-08-2015, 11:21 PM
#6
I'd rather be sailing.
Thread Starter
First and foremost, Thank You for the replies!
Never thought I would ask about towing and learn my watch was days off! LOL!
I will indeed check this post in the am for further replies however I believe there is a lot of common sense that did not already have, given to me! Thank you!
Much appreciated!
Scott
Never thought I would ask about towing and learn my watch was days off! LOL!
I will indeed check this post in the am for further replies however I believe there is a lot of common sense that did not already have, given to me! Thank you!
Much appreciated!
Scott
12-09-2015, 10:37 AM
#7
Grumpy Old Man
Assuming a tandem-axle trailer, placement of the car on the trailer is critical. To do it right, you need a tongue weight scale. You want a minimum of 10% of the gross trailer weight on the hitch ball, and not more than about 15%.
If the car weighs 3,500 pounds and the trailer weighs 1,500 pounds, that's 5,000 pounds of gross trailer weight. So hitch weight should be 500 to 750 pounds. Unless you are a champion heavyweight weight lifter, you probably cannot lift 500 pounds off the ground. So if you can lift the tongue even an inch off the ground then you probably don't have enough tongue weight.
Not enough tongue weight is dangerous because it can result in uncontrollable trailer sway that can put you upside down in the ditch. Too much tongue weight is okay if you don't have so much that you overload the receiver or the GVWR of your tow vehicle.
So you need a tongue weight scale. Like this one:
http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html
Without a tongue weight scale, you can use a bathroom scale plus some lumber to make a scale that will get you by. Do a search to see how to do it.
If the car weighs 3,500 pounds and the trailer weighs 1,500 pounds, that's 5,000 pounds of gross trailer weight. So hitch weight should be 500 to 750 pounds. Unless you are a champion heavyweight weight lifter, you probably cannot lift 500 pounds off the ground. So if you can lift the tongue even an inch off the ground then you probably don't have enough tongue weight.
Not enough tongue weight is dangerous because it can result in uncontrollable trailer sway that can put you upside down in the ditch. Too much tongue weight is okay if you don't have so much that you overload the receiver or the GVWR of your tow vehicle.
So you need a tongue weight scale. Like this one:
http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html
Without a tongue weight scale, you can use a bathroom scale plus some lumber to make a scale that will get you by. Do a search to see how to do it.
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12-09-2015, 11:08 AM
#8
Senior Member
If the car weighs 3,500 pounds and the trailer weighs 1,500 pounds, that's 5,000 pounds of gross trailer weight. So hitch weight should be 500 to 750 pounds. Unless you are a champion heavyweight weight lifter, you probably cannot lift 500 pounds off the ground. So if you can lift the tongue even an inch off the ground then you probably don't have enough tongue weight.
lol. Deadlifting 500 lbs aint much. World record is about 1100 lbs. Accd to you I am a champion heavyweight weight lifter.... haha. I lift 500-600 pound trailer tongues no problem.
12-09-2015, 05:29 PM
#9
Senior Member
Some of the replies, while good are overkill.
3" straps.
Car on trailer facing forward, it will sway if backwards.
Move it as far forward on the trailer as you can get it, it will tow better. Move it up until the back of the truck squats a few inches and that's about right.
Try to cross at least one of the sets of straps. Don't let any part of the strap touch anything or it will rub through. Don't wrap the straps around or they will rub through. Only connect to the car and trailer with the hooks.
3" straps.
Car on trailer facing forward, it will sway if backwards.
Move it as far forward on the trailer as you can get it, it will tow better. Move it up until the back of the truck squats a few inches and that's about right.
Try to cross at least one of the sets of straps. Don't let any part of the strap touch anything or it will rub through. Don't wrap the straps around or they will rub through. Only connect to the car and trailer with the hooks.
12-09-2015, 08:07 PM
#10
Senior Member
Lots of practical experience here hauling race cars.
Look at the rating on the strap, not its width. Overkill is good but keep in mind that each strap is carrying about 1/4 of the weight of the car. Over kill is good in case one fails.
Always tie to a low suspension point, in the rear this would be the axle, in the front the lower control arms. Cross both front and rear straps. This limits side to side movement of the car. The straighter the strap, this easier it is for the vehicle to move side to side, especially in an emergency maneuver.
Do not attempt to pre load suspension. Strap low on the vehicle and use a far away mount on the trailer to limit the straps becoming loose on bumps when the suspension travels. The more level the strap the less it can loosen when the suspension moves. It is nearly impossible to preload the suspension as you would with a motorcycle.
Stop and check your straps early, especially after the more stop and go traffic in town and prior to hitting to highway. Snug as needed at this point.
I have, on many occasions, had to stop and help guys restrain there cars after they moved on the trailer do to not following best practice in strapping as I have noted above. Consider my advice above and think logically as to way it is done that way and it will make perfect sense.
Watch placement on the trailer. Try to center the car over the axles of the trailer. That car has the engine in the front so will be slightly front heavy, which is what you want. Some tongue weight but not too much. Too much rear weight and the trailer will sway. Too much and the front and the truck will squat too much unweighting the front wheels of the tow vehicle. Don't be afraid to move the car once on the trailer to get everything looking and feeling right.
Carry at least one trailer spare, I always had two. Check trailer tire pressures, better a little high than low. With the weight of the car, unless a really heavy duty trailer, air up near max tire pressure.
Take you time and stop to check as soon as something feels odd or like it moved.
Look at the rating on the strap, not its width. Overkill is good but keep in mind that each strap is carrying about 1/4 of the weight of the car. Over kill is good in case one fails.
Always tie to a low suspension point, in the rear this would be the axle, in the front the lower control arms. Cross both front and rear straps. This limits side to side movement of the car. The straighter the strap, this easier it is for the vehicle to move side to side, especially in an emergency maneuver.
Do not attempt to pre load suspension. Strap low on the vehicle and use a far away mount on the trailer to limit the straps becoming loose on bumps when the suspension travels. The more level the strap the less it can loosen when the suspension moves. It is nearly impossible to preload the suspension as you would with a motorcycle.
Stop and check your straps early, especially after the more stop and go traffic in town and prior to hitting to highway. Snug as needed at this point.
I have, on many occasions, had to stop and help guys restrain there cars after they moved on the trailer do to not following best practice in strapping as I have noted above. Consider my advice above and think logically as to way it is done that way and it will make perfect sense.
Watch placement on the trailer. Try to center the car over the axles of the trailer. That car has the engine in the front so will be slightly front heavy, which is what you want. Some tongue weight but not too much. Too much rear weight and the trailer will sway. Too much and the front and the truck will squat too much unweighting the front wheels of the tow vehicle. Don't be afraid to move the car once on the trailer to get everything looking and feeling right.
Carry at least one trailer spare, I always had two. Check trailer tire pressures, better a little high than low. With the weight of the car, unless a really heavy duty trailer, air up near max tire pressure.
Take you time and stop to check as soon as something feels odd or like it moved.
I'm not arguing with you, just trying to understand why you do it that way.
Also to T_R, you can load a car forwards or backwards, what matters is the center of gravity placement of the vehicle. I've done both several times depending on the vehicle I was towing with no swaying. Load position is critical when hauling loads for me.