Towing in 2016: 3.5 Ecoboost vs 5.0 V-8
#91
Someone on RV.net mentioned it may be on the top cover. There is nothing inside when I pull the filter cover off, other than the vent model number. Considering the height of the outside cover being 15", and the trailer specs stating 10'4", and this one is 10'8", I am thinking its the larger AC, but want to confirm it first.
I need to figure out how to lower the trailer a couple inches for storage, without damaging the tires by moving on them flat. I may be able to remove the AC unit, but would rather not do anything on the roof that could cause a leak.
I need to figure out how to lower the trailer a couple inches for storage, without damaging the tires by moving on them flat. I may be able to remove the AC unit, but would rather not do anything on the roof that could cause a leak.
I would never take off an AC for any reason other than replacement and then, I'd let the professionals due it as leaks in the roof will be the end of your trailer.
You also can not roll on flat tires as they will be damaged and likely blow out while your towing.
Maybe just getting a cover is in your best interest.
BTW, your trailer didn't come with a manual pack for your A/C? It should be right there identifying what brand you have.
#92
Senior Member
Someone on RV.net mentioned it may be on the top cover. There is nothing inside when I pull the filter cover off, other than the vent model number. Considering the height of the outside cover being 15", and the trailer specs stating 10'4", and this one is 10'8", I am thinking its the larger AC, but want to confirm it first.
I need to figure out how to lower the trailer a couple inches for storage, without damaging the tires by moving on them flat. I may be able to remove the AC unit, but would rather not do anything on the roof that could cause a leak.
I need to figure out how to lower the trailer a couple inches for storage, without damaging the tires by moving on them flat. I may be able to remove the AC unit, but would rather not do anything on the roof that could cause a leak.
#93
Senior Member
I have towed stuff for 30 years . 9000 pounds is not the problem it is the 36 foot that scares me . Now I push and go over with my truck but that's around home . If I was hauling my family and gear and luggage and pilling something this long I would not even consider a 150 . I think goose neck and a f350 is where I would be. Sway is not something I won't to deal with .
#94
Senior Member
I have towed stuff for 30 years . 9000 pounds is not the problem it is the 36 foot that scares me . Now I push and go over with my truck but that's around home . If I was hauling my family and gear and luggage and pilling something this long I would not even consider a 150 . I think goose neck and a f350 is where I would be. Sway is not something I won't to deal with .
The reason a fifth wheel trailer resists sway is because the pivot point of the connection between the trailer and truck is near the rear axle of the truck. For sway to occur, the rear tires of the truck have to slide sideways and there is little leverage to make that happen.
ALL conventional hitches pivot on the ball, subjecting them to possible sway. "Sway control" hitches work be absorbing some of the sway force by either a spring type action or a friction brake.
There are two hitches that work differently - ProPride and Hensley. The design of these hitch use geometry and physics to "project" the pivot point forward to the trucks rear axle. These hitches are significantly more expensive than the best of the conventional hitches but significantly less that costs incurred by getting a 5th wheel trailer and larger truck. If you do a search for reports by people who have converted to one of these hitches from conventional hitches, you will be hard pressed to find one who would ever consider going back. What I have found is that people who use the conventional consider them to be "good enough".
These u-tubes show how the hitches act differently than conventional units.
How sway occurs:
#95
Member
Mayberry:
I put 100k miles on a 2011 3.5EB with 3.1 gears. About 25K of it was towing 5500# of TT all over the country. I found that I never needed all the power it had to give....the low end particularly is impressive, even with the tall gears. So when offered a good deal on a 2016 2.7 with 3.31 gears, I bought it and while it is adequate for what I pull, I do miss the low end pull that the 2.7 simply does not have. It starts to pull hard at 2200...the 3.5 did it at 1600. Both engines are ballsy, but the 3.5 is a beast. Met a guy in Myrtle Beach towing an 10,000 5th wheel with a 2012 3.5 with 3.73s and he had nothing but praise. Have to agreee with some others however, payload may be close to the line.
I put 100k miles on a 2011 3.5EB with 3.1 gears. About 25K of it was towing 5500# of TT all over the country. I found that I never needed all the power it had to give....the low end particularly is impressive, even with the tall gears. So when offered a good deal on a 2016 2.7 with 3.31 gears, I bought it and while it is adequate for what I pull, I do miss the low end pull that the 2.7 simply does not have. It starts to pull hard at 2200...the 3.5 did it at 1600. Both engines are ballsy, but the 3.5 is a beast. Met a guy in Myrtle Beach towing an 10,000 5th wheel with a 2012 3.5 with 3.73s and he had nothing but praise. Have to agreee with some others however, payload may be close to the line.
#96
Senior Member
My 2016 XLT 4x4 CREW with 36 Gal tank has a payload of 1710 lbs
#98
Senior Member
#100
I saw that someone named Jason hauls a very large travel trailer with his 16 3.5 ecoboost, and was wondering what gear ratio is in it. I'm looking to purchase a 2014 F150 with the 3.5 EcoBoost and wondering which is better 3.55 or 3.73