Gigantapithicus

Hey,


Didn't forget about this thread - just got busy catching up on all the stuff I neglected while shopping for a new truck. Spring is finally here and I'm about to get to my travel trailer shopping and need to figure out these fine details.


I finally took a picture of that door sticker a few people were asking for:





Now if I'm interpreting it correctly and reading my manual correctly the GCVWR of my truck is 17,100lbs when equipped with max tow package (which we decided I have) and according to the door sticker my GVWR is 7,200 leaving me a towing capacity of 9,900 lbs which is a lot less (well not really) than what the manual says my towing capacity is at 11,200 lbs.


I think that leaves me pretty safe buying something in the 5,000lbs - 7,000lbs dry (although I'll be going for the lighter side of that)?


Additionally I'm looking at buying a set of rims and wheels off my buddy. He swapped out his factory 2012 lariat rims/wheels for a set of 20's and Pirellis. He's willing to sell me the factory rims/wheels that were used for about 10,000 kms, I believe the factory tires are the goodyear wrangler AT/S size 275/65/18.


I think these would be a better tire than the Pirellis and the 20" rims I currently have for my summer/fall towing. Then I might go back to a dedicated winter tire on my 20's for the winter.


Thoughts? Apologies for the large image. I couldn't find spoiler tags in the posting menu.


Edit - I just re-read smurfs 1st post (thanks again for that), the sticker doesn't show "maximum weight of cargo and occupants", just the 7,200 lbs.

Gigantapithicus

DOH!!!


Pretty sure this is what was being asked of me:





and from what smurfs said:



According to the sticker I have 1,170lbs of combined cargo and occupants capacity, let's say I'm 200lbs, wife and kid 200lbs, dog and junk 150lbs, for a total of 550 lbs leaves me 4,133lbs. That can't be right. How the heck did I go from 11,200 lbs towing capacity to 4,133 lbs???

Steve Osborne

your payload is what the truck carries, not pulling/towing..
1170-550=620
so your tongue weight is 620....so you see how payload limits the truck now..
so at the weights listed above your trailer weight is around 4000lbs(15%) tongue weight

Gigantapithicus

Thanks!


That said, this seems ludacris... I understand what you're saying, but what's the point of the manual and dealers talking about towing capacity and completely ignoring tongue weight.


Is there anything I can do to alleviate this? Weight Distribution Hitch? AirBags?

Steve Osborne

legally nothing, but air bags and wdh will help with any sag in the rear...the wdh hitch will spread the load to the front axle and trailer..

smurfs_of_war

There really isn't a thing you can do from a legal stand- but that is fuzzy. Haven't heard of anyone (and trust me- myself and others have hunted extensively for this info) being nailed for over GVWR on the tow rig.They care about axle ratings, and tire ratings and registered weight on the insurance in most jurisdictions... but this is a whole hornets nest I don't plan on shaking.

From a technical standpoint- you can help yourself out a bit. The addition of airbags or an extra leaf in the rear helps. A good weight distribution hitch properly setup will move some weight off the rear axle back to the trailer. Swap out the garbage OEM shocks. Also- the rubber. You should dump the P rates. This isn't going to raise your sticker, but it makes it more capable. Honestly, if you go over your payload rating by a few hundred, you are not going to instantly explode or be any more a terror on the road than the guy in his prius eating a sandwich, so I wouldn't sweat it too much.

You're in the situation that a lot of half ton owners are. Not enough carrying capacity for the tongue. If it makes you feel better- my payload is less than yours. My family of 5 weighs just shy of 900lbs combined. Between my son and I, 500lbs. So, with my TT hooked and ready, I am over payload by 5-600lbs, yet under axles. So... from a real world standpoint- know your axle ratings, supplement the lame OEM suspension a bit to help it carry heavy, and don't exceed your axle and tire ratings, and most importantly- drive with your head screwed on straight. Some guys swear by payload, some guys swear by axle ratings- it's an ongoing fight. I played the payload police game for a while and finally gave up because it did nothing but ruin an otherwise great vacation with the family- they got sick and tired of me worrying about weight. That doesn't mean I ignored common sense. What are you comfortable with? Payload takes into account a myriad of other things- one of which is handling under load, and all of these items considered are as it leaves the factory. So it depends on what you're comfortable with. Use common sense and be reasonable. Very light trailers are available with plenty of options and room and reasonable length. Mine is 5600lbs loaded for the road, 26', and sleeps 8 easily. Tongue weight loaded- 580lbs. So, trailers within your means exist.

This post likely will run afoul of a few members here, and that's fine. I honestly wouldn't let a few hundred pounds ruin my family time. Don't sweat it too much unless you are bouncing over axle ratings. That's serious business- things can break quickly then.

The advice I gave in my first post is the advice I give to people that ask so they don't make the same mistake I did when looking at trucks. Live and learn I guess

Manuellabour247

I've always found that balancing where you stow the loads in the TT or any trailer for that matter make the ride manageable or a nightmare. too much or too little toungue weight and it can swing you in a ditch. Also heavily loaded to one side can make it pull funny and wear out bearings prematurely. The payload and Axle ratings are both there for legal reasons. Mainly to keep people using a half ton to pull a missile or something completely overloading the truck. I have never had the heavy tow option on any of my vehicles, but I have always had the regular tow option. I've pulled the same loads as my friends that have the heavy duty. I just use what Smurf said----common sense. I don't try to pull the toungue off the trailer and I don't try to take corners at 60. If you can test drive the trailer for a couple miles to get a feel for it, that would be good. I know around Wichita there are a couple TT dealers that will let you hook them up and drive for short distances to test the towing. Good luck.

**EDIT--I've always shot for a happy medium between the axle rating and payload. Snapping an axle while driving would suuuuuuck. lol

brulaz

Amazing isn't? And you're not alone.

I went through the exact same thing a while back. Eventually traded the truck in on the current one with 2050# payload.

Next time, I'll probably get the HD Payload option or a Superduty.

smurfs_of_war

Exact same thing here. Not messing around anymore. A half ton is nice for a DD, but it's so frustrating making sure you have an empty bladder just to hook up a trailer

Gigantapithicus

So went to the weight scale today, 2,870 - I'm assuming that's KG's, which would be 6,314 lbs. That was with me in it and a freshly filled tank.


I'm also not understanding Axel weights. A front axel of 3,750 and a rear axel of 4,000 lbs, how do I used that in the equation if I'm willing to exceed the payload capacity by a bit?


Also the tires my buddy is wanting to sell me are Goodyear Wrangler SR-A 275/65/15 and the max load says "1180 kg 2601 lbs"