Rear End Difference for Towing
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Rear End Difference for Towing
Hi All,
Just joined this site and I'm looking for opinions and advise. I have a 2012 -150 platinum ecoboost with a 3.31 rear end. I have the 6 speed manual/auto and tow/haul, trailer tow package option etc. The book says I can tow up to 8100lbs. With the 3.55 rear end it says up to 9600lbs can be towed. My question is, with just .24 difference in the rear ends, all else the same, if I stay out of 6th gear, would I be all right as long as I'm not trying to go 70-80mph? I'm not looking to go up to 9600, but maybe push 8500. If I only went 10% over we're still talking only 8900. Additionally, I'm installing the HeartThrob 4" cat-back exhaust for an additional 40 hp and 50lbs torque, at the wheels.
Any input is greatly appreciated,
Gary
Just joined this site and I'm looking for opinions and advise. I have a 2012 -150 platinum ecoboost with a 3.31 rear end. I have the 6 speed manual/auto and tow/haul, trailer tow package option etc. The book says I can tow up to 8100lbs. With the 3.55 rear end it says up to 9600lbs can be towed. My question is, with just .24 difference in the rear ends, all else the same, if I stay out of 6th gear, would I be all right as long as I'm not trying to go 70-80mph? I'm not looking to go up to 9600, but maybe push 8500. If I only went 10% over we're still talking only 8900. Additionally, I'm installing the HeartThrob 4" cat-back exhaust for an additional 40 hp and 50lbs torque, at the wheels.
Any input is greatly appreciated,
Gary
#2
Limits are there for a reason. Personally, I would not.
If you are looking at doing this more than once, I would guess it will be a problem for you some day, if not immediately.
But if you decide to go ahead and try, keep an eye on your trans temp.
The truck you have has plenty of power to pull this weight.
Your rear-end is going to determine whether you have problems towing the 8500# or not.
I would say to unload some non-essential weight and get below the 8100#.
Being as close to capacity as you are, don't guess what your weight is. Get to a scale and get it weighed.
Also, be sure to check your payload capacity.
If you are looking at doing this more than once, I would guess it will be a problem for you some day, if not immediately.
But if you decide to go ahead and try, keep an eye on your trans temp.
The truck you have has plenty of power to pull this weight.
Your rear-end is going to determine whether you have problems towing the 8500# or not.
I would say to unload some non-essential weight and get below the 8100#.
Being as close to capacity as you are, don't guess what your weight is. Get to a scale and get it weighed.
Also, be sure to check your payload capacity.
Last edited by humblerb; 08-21-2012 at 03:11 PM.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Humblerb,
I would watch everything. I want to stay in the upper 7000's, but just in case...
I just can not see how .24 difference in the rear end can make such a difference. I believe the limit is set with 6th gear and the rear end ratio as the final determining factor, but just using 5th gear changes the entire picture. It's like flying approach with full flaps, and max rpms, and keepping minimum approach speed.
I do thank you for the opinion, and advice.
Gary
I would watch everything. I want to stay in the upper 7000's, but just in case...
I just can not see how .24 difference in the rear end can make such a difference. I believe the limit is set with 6th gear and the rear end ratio as the final determining factor, but just using 5th gear changes the entire picture. It's like flying approach with full flaps, and max rpms, and keepping minimum approach speed.
I do thank you for the opinion, and advice.
Gary
#4
Thanks Humblerb,
I would watch everything. I want to stay in the upper 7000's, but just in case...
I just can not see how .24 difference in the rear end can make such a difference. I believe the limit is set with 6th gear and the rear end ratio as the final determining factor, but just using 5th gear changes the entire picture. It's like flying approach with full flaps, and max rpms, and keepping minimum approach speed.
I do thank you for the opinion, and advice.
Gary
I would watch everything. I want to stay in the upper 7000's, but just in case...
I just can not see how .24 difference in the rear end can make such a difference. I believe the limit is set with 6th gear and the rear end ratio as the final determining factor, but just using 5th gear changes the entire picture. It's like flying approach with full flaps, and max rpms, and keepping minimum approach speed.
I do thank you for the opinion, and advice.
Gary
My point is, you won't know you have a problem until you have it. Then it can be a real pain. I limped back home with my trailer at about 50 MPH and had to stop about 10 miles from home to let the truck cool down again so I could tow in traffic.
Once I found my gearing, I found that just a small difference in gears (approx 0.30) probably would have let me tow the TT with no problem.
If you do tow this any distance, I would have a backup plan, just in case.
And again, hopefully, you have a trans temp gauge you can keep an eye on.
#5
You need to also look at the other numbers - like tongue weight, GVWR and rear axle load. Make sure you won't go over the limits there. I bet you are over 1,000 lbs of tongue weight with that trailer, easily.
And then - there is the liability question if something bad would happen. Some people don't care, but it's something to keep in mind.
And then - there is the liability question if something bad would happen. Some people don't care, but it's something to keep in mind.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Towing & the Rear End
You need to also look at the other numbers - like tongue weight, GVWR and rear axle load. Make sure you won't go over the limits there. I bet you are over 1,000 lbs of tongue weight with that trailer, easily.
And then - there is the liability question if something bad would happen. Some people don't care, but it's something to keep in mind.
And then - there is the liability question if something bad would happen. Some people don't care, but it's something to keep in mind.
I've looked at all other factors as well. Tongue weights vary with the trailers I'm looking at. 650 to 850lbs depending on floor plan. Lengths from 28 to 34'. I do have a transmission temp gauge in my '12 Platinum.
Thanks for your input,
Gary
#7
Okay, but 850 lbs of empty tongue weight will be more than 1,000 lbs when loaded in no time. Will you be okay with that after adding passengers and cargo in the truck? What is your payload? What is your official tongue weight rating?
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The only reason I weighed in on this subject is I had an overweight problem with my first vehicle. I had a 2005 Nissan Titan that did not have a tow package. I was relatively new to towing, but loaded up my TT to make a 45 mile trip to the lake for a relaxing weekend. I did nto have a trans temp gauge, but if I had, I'm sure I would have been shocked. About halfway there (basically level towing) I noticed that when I stepped on the gas at about 60, I had zero response. Since I was in motion, the rig kept going. When I exited the highway and started up an exit ramp, I did not make it to the top. Had a tow truck take us on in to the campsite and drop the truck at a transmission shop. I was fortunate and had a really nice guy in th tow truck. The next morning, he came back to the campgrounds and told me that when he unloaded the truck the night before (approx 3 hours after we had problems), he started it up and it seemed to be OK. He took me over to the trans shop and I tried it. Everything seemed fine. Long story, not so long, the truck had gone in to limp mode and saved my tranny. I had the fluid changed the following week and there was nothing wrong with it.
My point is, you won't know you have a problem until you have it. Then it can be a real pain. I limped back home with my trailer at about 50 MPH and had to stop about 10 miles from home to let the truck cool down again so I could tow in traffic.
Once I found my gearing, I found that just a small difference in gears (approx 0.30) probably would have let me tow the TT with no problem.
If you do tow this any distance, I would have a backup plan, just in case.
And again, hopefully, you have a trans temp gauge you can keep an eye on.
My point is, you won't know you have a problem until you have it. Then it can be a real pain. I limped back home with my trailer at about 50 MPH and had to stop about 10 miles from home to let the truck cool down again so I could tow in traffic.
Once I found my gearing, I found that just a small difference in gears (approx 0.30) probably would have let me tow the TT with no problem.
If you do tow this any distance, I would have a backup plan, just in case.
And again, hopefully, you have a trans temp gauge you can keep an eye on.
I do have a tow package, and can handle 1500lbs on the rear, not counting what will be "equalized" with a proper hitch.
Gary
#9
The weights the manufacturer advertises on their brochures and actual weights are always different. My last TT was a 30' Sunset Trail Reserve. The weight of it at the scales without any gear was 1500lbs heavier than stated in the brochure. The same was true with my TT I had before that one, only it was 1,000lbs heavier. Most salesman will tell you that a 1/2 ton will handle just about any TT because they are ignorant on the subject. On another note, I would highly recommend an Equalizer brand hitch if you do not already have one. I have tried others and they are far superior to the bar/chain style.
#10
just remember, the man can pull you into a scale and fine you if you are over the legal weight allowed for your axles . Make sure you are under the max weight allowed on your GAWR and you should be OK.