New trailer came off hitch ball
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm just south of Gainesville
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I can get a new triple crown 5x10 utility for $875. Are the big tex more $$$
#44
Senior Member
A Big Tex will be more, but trust me, if you want quality you want a Big Tex trailer. I have a buddy that has a triple crown 6X12 and there is no comparison in quality. Big Tex is pretty much THE utility trailer if you want one that will be around for the truck you get after the truck you buy to replace the truck you have now.
#45
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Lol lol
#46
Member
Big Tex
FWIW, good advice from Rockjock3. 'Big Tex' Trailers are well respected here in Colorado. Just the aspect of protected Lights is huge. On a different, Regional Brand, I had my Lights re-welded up higher. It's legal to flip my License Plate to vertical, so I did that up under the LED Lights I retrofitted on myself. Keeping things like Lights and Plates out of harms way is huge. I would snag my horizontal Plate in tight spots, and crumple it at the Dump. Look around, and you'll see this sort of damage all the time.
The advice on backing up a smidge to the Coupler is sound. That's what causes the Coupler to seat down fully and not come up and off. I look at the horizontal flange on the Coupler bottom and ensure it's JUST above the Tongue. I was deceived one time when, of course, my 5' x 9' was loaded to the max. It came up off the Ball. Fooled me big time during my pre-Tow Inspection.
I'd already learned to cross my Safety Chains. Right Chain to the Truck Receiver left side, and vice-versa. This saved my Bacon because it kept the detached Coupler from hitting the Ground and gouging in. Runaway Trailers, or Loads flying out, can kill.
I towed heavy Loads up over the Rockies to build my Retirement House, so I retrofitted on my own Electric Brakes. I won't tow 'round here w/o them. Especially on curves, when meeting up with Deer at Dusk, Trailer Physics means it wants to come around. Braking in Real Life is not always straight line, as some assume.
If you didn't buy the cheapest Truck on price only, consider the soundness of that same strategy when springing once for a 'Big Tex'. Consider coating the Wood Trailer Deck with Deck Preservative pronto.
I was in various Service Manager Positions throughout my Working Life. What the nit-pickers never understand is the old Truism that satisfied Customers might tell a few Folks about their experience. P.O.ed Customers tell 10 or more potential Customers. Like, on Forums where LOTS of Folks read about their experiences. Short-sighted attitudes don't pay back in Customer Satisfaction, and future Market Share.
Nice to hear of your Happy Ending.
The advice on backing up a smidge to the Coupler is sound. That's what causes the Coupler to seat down fully and not come up and off. I look at the horizontal flange on the Coupler bottom and ensure it's JUST above the Tongue. I was deceived one time when, of course, my 5' x 9' was loaded to the max. It came up off the Ball. Fooled me big time during my pre-Tow Inspection.
I'd already learned to cross my Safety Chains. Right Chain to the Truck Receiver left side, and vice-versa. This saved my Bacon because it kept the detached Coupler from hitting the Ground and gouging in. Runaway Trailers, or Loads flying out, can kill.
I towed heavy Loads up over the Rockies to build my Retirement House, so I retrofitted on my own Electric Brakes. I won't tow 'round here w/o them. Especially on curves, when meeting up with Deer at Dusk, Trailer Physics means it wants to come around. Braking in Real Life is not always straight line, as some assume.
If you didn't buy the cheapest Truck on price only, consider the soundness of that same strategy when springing once for a 'Big Tex'. Consider coating the Wood Trailer Deck with Deck Preservative pronto.
I was in various Service Manager Positions throughout my Working Life. What the nit-pickers never understand is the old Truism that satisfied Customers might tell a few Folks about their experience. P.O.ed Customers tell 10 or more potential Customers. Like, on Forums where LOTS of Folks read about their experiences. Short-sighted attitudes don't pay back in Customer Satisfaction, and future Market Share.
Nice to hear of your Happy Ending.
Last edited by Engineer Guy; 08-18-2014 at 10:04 PM.
#47
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What's y'all's take on Aluminum trailers? Worth the extra price or stick with the metal ones?
#48
Senior Member
Aluminum is still a metal lol. And for that small of a trailer I don't think it is worth it. Once you get to large car haulers it is nice because they are much lighter therefore you save fuel. But for the size you are talking about I wouldn't do it.
#49
Senior Member
FWIW, I think the top 3 brands in trailers are: (Not necessarily in order) PJ, Big Tex, and Kaufman. I currently have a 2006 22' steel deck tilt bed Kaufman in VA & a 18' steel deck beaver tail in Las Vegas. Both are tandem axle with brakes on both axles. Since buying & selling trailers is one of my hobbies, I've owned all 3 brands as well as numerous others.
It really depends what you are going to use it for and how much you use it. Remember, most single axle trailers are limited to 3500 pounds GVW, meaning you need to subtract the weight of the trailer from the GVW. If you are only going to use it a few times a year and not have much weight, Craig's List has a lot of good deals. The old adage, "you get what you pay for" has never been truer.
I personally prefer a steel bed because wood stains if you have something (vehicle) that is leaking. I also insist on a true flatbed (no sides) as you can fork lift things on such as lumber or pallets. I also insist on both stake pockets for sides if needed and rub rails for tie downs. I haul vehicles as well as construction materials.
Again, it all depends on the usage and the frequency of use whether you buy an $800 or $1800 trailer. You have been burnt once!
It really depends what you are going to use it for and how much you use it. Remember, most single axle trailers are limited to 3500 pounds GVW, meaning you need to subtract the weight of the trailer from the GVW. If you are only going to use it a few times a year and not have much weight, Craig's List has a lot of good deals. The old adage, "you get what you pay for" has never been truer.
I personally prefer a steel bed because wood stains if you have something (vehicle) that is leaking. I also insist on a true flatbed (no sides) as you can fork lift things on such as lumber or pallets. I also insist on both stake pockets for sides if needed and rub rails for tie downs. I haul vehicles as well as construction materials.
Again, it all depends on the usage and the frequency of use whether you buy an $800 or $1800 trailer. You have been burnt once!
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Got a hold of one of my local dealers for big Tex trailers. They carry the model 29SA 5x10 for $1200 and model 35SA 6.5'x10 for $1600
Do these prices seem a little high or are they right on track with what these trailers are selling for?
Do these prices seem a little high or are they right on track with what these trailers are selling for?