CityBoy

I'd like to close this thread, it has just occurred to me that I'm trying to force an F150 to facilitate the role of an F250/350. I got so wrapped up in the maximum amount of towing I can do and forgot why I was looking at the F150 to begin with.

The F150 is considered a "Light Duty Truck". Try as you might, the F150 will never surpass a 250/350 when it comes to towing.

I'm going to stick with my configuration for the F150.
5.0L
SCrew
4X4
Still debating gearing but leaning toward the 3.55, I MAY switch to 3.73 but not likely.
Tow Package (Will install a WDH if absolutely needed)

I'd like to thank everyone for their assistance and advice.

smokeywren

You need to decide what the pickup will be used for before you invest you money.


There are three different "tow packages".


1, Class IV trailer hitch pkg. That's a misnomer because it rated for up to 10,000 pounds gross trailer weight (Class IV trailer) only when connected with a weight-distributing hitch. With a weight carrying hitch, it's rated to tow a max gross trailer weight of up to 5,000 pounds (Class III trailer). Optional on XL and XLT base trim. Standard on higher-level trim packages. Includes Class III/IV receiver, 4-pin and 7-pin wiring harness with "smart" tow connecter that provides electronic sway control. Does NOT include auxiliary tranny cooler, upgraded front stabilizer bar, tow mirrors, or integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC)

2. Regular trailer tow package, includes the Class IV trailer hitch pkg plus the auxiliary tranny cooler and upgraded front stabilizer bar. Does NOT include tow mirrors, or integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC), but both of those are options. Be sure your F-150 has at least this regular tow package, and in addition, order both the tow mirrors and the ITBC.

3, Max trailer tow pkg. Requires the 3.5L EcoBoost engine. Includes the regular tow pkg plus the integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC) and 3.55 e-locker rear axle.

The weight-distributing hitch is installed on the trailer, not the tow vehicle. So no need to buy one until you buy the trailer. Then if you buy a trailer with GVWR more than 4,999 pounds or if it might have max tongue weight of more than 499 pounds, then you need the WD hitch for that trailer.

GCWR with 3.55 and 5,0L engine is 14,500 pounds max combined truc and trailer weight. GCWR with 3.73 is 16,200. So the 3,73 can pull a trailer that grosses 1,700 pounds more if it has the 3.73 instead of the 3.55 axle ratio. But because GVWR and not GCWR will be your limiter as to how heavy a trailer you can tow, figure on maybe 7,000 pounds max gross trailer weight before you run out of payload capacity for hitch weight, regardless of your axle ratio. So the 3.55 would probably work just fine for your use. The 3.73 would be better if you live at high altitude or you plan to frequently drag those horses over steep hills or mountain passes.


You can tow a much heavier trailer without being overloaded if you order the HD Payload package, because it increases GVWR (and payload capacity) to handle a lot more hitch weight. The HD Payload package is available with the 5.0L engine. If I wanted a new F-150 with he 5.0L engine, then I would definitely include the HD Payload package. Before the 2015 model year the HD Payload Pkg included weird 7-lug wheels that were difficult to replace with custom wheels. But beginning in 2015 model year, Ford made ordinary 18" 6-lug wheels with LT tires available on trim levels XLT and Lariat with the HD Payload pkg.

CityBoy

Mostly a DD with the occasional tow.
I also should have added that I'm looking at an XLT...

I was planning on going with option 2, the Regular trailer tow package and add the ITBC as an option.



So if I'm reading this part correctly... I shouldn't need a hitch upgrade, just a WDH IF my trailer will exceed 5000/500???



When I referenced the horse trailer thing I was severely reaching, the odds that I ever end up with one is only slightly better then one of us winning the lottery... it could happen but probably won't.


I'll probably stick with DD and the occasional U-Haul.


As far as altitude goes (I may or may not have mentioned this) I'll eventually be back in Colorado, in a few years and the elevation is much different then sea level.


Are there any major differences between 3.55 and 3.73 aside from towing ability?


This is a stupid question but how bad is MPG between the two? I say stupid because nobody buys a truck or a V8 for gas mileage but I'd just like to know how bad it is.



This is true, but part of the reason I decided to go with Ford over Dodge or Chevy is because of the interior and the amenities. The 302A package is pretty much a must for me, it isn't compatible with the HD payload package so unless Ford somehow allows the two to go together on the 2016 I think I'll have to skip the HD Payload.

brulaz

Well, if you forget the horse trailer, and move to Colorado, I would go with the small turbo engine, 2.7 EcoBoost. Very good mileage, no loss of HP with elevation. You can get a special Payload package with it as well.

smokeywren

I lived in Colorado for 20 years. A non-turbo gasser loses power as altitude increases as you go from Denver up into the mountains at 8.000 to 10,000 feet altitude. Turbo diesel does just fine, losing very little HP as you climb to higher altitude. And my 3.5L EcoBoost doesn't even realize I'm towing at higher altitude. The turbos work harder, and thus the MPG goes to the dogs, but no decrease in power. But a 5.0L V8 without a turbo would loose a big percentage of sea-level HP as you climb up over 5,000 feet.

CityBoy

True, I believe the loss is about 20% HP. At least that what I remember it coming out to in the springs... I'm a V8 fan so I'm gonna stick with the 5.0L by the time I'm ready to move back to the springs I'm sure some company (if they don't already) will make a super for this motor and I'll regain that way if I really feel the loss.

tuckr2

Read through most of this. Sounds like I'm driving something similar to what you are looking for. 2011 F150 XLT S/crew 4x4 5.0L, 3.55 limited slip with class IV hitch, trailer brake control, and sway control. Currently pulling a 30 foot Forest River TTT. Dry weight at about 5900lbs. Loaded max at 7300lb. I do have a weight distribution hitch on it. Just too much tongue weight with the trailer and of course gear in the back of the truck. Runs and pulls great. Live in western Washington State so we do see lots of hills but no major mountains. Newer F150 with 5.0 bumped hp up to something like 385 hp as mine is 366hp. Had an older model with the 5.4L and this is miles ahead. You can buy the 3.5 twin turbo which does make better hp and torque at lower RPMs but it does suffer a bit more in the mpg range when towing. After a couple years I did add some Monroe coil over shocks on the rear because of the squishy rear end when loading the truck and camper. Also upgraded tires to some Yokohama Geolander AT/s. Tire diameter about 2.0 taller overall. Rides great now with and without the trailer. Also just added the aftermarket tow mirrors the other day. Greta investment and only took about 15 minutes to replace. Worth every dollar. Good luck in your selection.

austingta

The weight distributing component is part of the trailer, not the receiver (the square thing) on the truck.

tomb1269

I have a 2005 FX4 5.4L w/ 18" rims and a 3.73 rear gear. Due to the tire and rim size I am a firm believer this truck would have been much better in town and the castkill mtns if it had the 4.11s or the 17" rims. The taller overall gear ratio (tires, trans and rear axle together) makes it sluggish off the line for a V8. In addition, when loaded up with the family and a light trailer 2000lbs it will shift in and out of OD on any amount of grade. I firmly believe that for around town and back mnt highway/county roads (I.E. less than 65mph) that if it had the 4.11 I would see a better MPG as the trany would stay in top gear more and the engine would run less OVERALL RPMs on county roads, and it would come off the line better and shift up in to top gear sooner. Just my thoughts, but if you are running a lot of highway at 65 and over that does not have a lot of elevation changes (i.e. ups and downs) then the taller 3.55 or 3.31 would be better.

tsigwing

Its not the rim size. Its the overall diameter and weight that are a problem.