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Are my numbers good?

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Old 04-14-2014, 05:15 PM
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Default Are my numbers good?

2014 Xlt screw 4x4 3.5 ecoboost max tow package 1864 payload (yellow sticker on door jamb) 3.73 rear end 145 Wheel base 5.5ft bed I'm pulling a 31 ft shadow cruiser with dry weight of 6650 lb dry hitch of 640 lb me wife and 3 kids reese hitch
Old 04-14-2014, 05:53 PM
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you likely are good but the dry weights mean little to nothing... what's the gross trailer wieght? guessing 8k? so at 8k you're tongue weight should be between 800 and 1200 (ideally right at 1k) and then the 864 left over should cover you, your wife, and the 3 kids (guessing 400ish pds?) then you have 464 left that you'll likely run out of quickly. now if your tongue weight is closer to the 1200 mark, i don't think the factory hitch can handle that so you'll have to upgrade there... and either way just make sure you have a decent WDH for that weight, one with integrated sway.
Old 04-15-2014, 10:56 AM
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Need to know the GVWR of the TT and exact model, I'm going to say that its going to be over 8k.
Old 04-15-2014, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Norotso
Need to know the GVWR of the TT and exact model, I'm going to say that its going to be over 8k.

this is good advice... 8k was a guess on the low end of the gross.
Old 04-19-2014, 03:56 PM
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The payload on its own can be a bit misleading. Your truck with a full tank of gas and you in it (depends on your weight for exact numbers) should be around 6150lbs. The gross vehicle weight rating looks to be 7650lbs. Gives you 1500lbs for everything else. The payload assumes you bought a base 4x4 crew cab work truck with no option. Figure in upgraded wheels, hitch, turbo plumbing, all the fun stuff. It adds up after a bit.

Not sure how old all the kids are for car seats and such but probably 500-600lbs of the rest of your family. Leaves you with 900-1000lbs for trailer.

Looking up the stats on the trailer;

http://www.appletoncamping.com/rv/ap...uiser+s-314tsb

It looks like that could weigh 9440lbs fully loaded. That would certainly go over your GVWR but your GCVWR looks good by about 1000lbs.

Keep smart about how you pack and I would think you will fit within the limits, just don't drag the entire house with you .


Just a bit more on the limits of payload for the F150's. The rims are the weak point according to the spec sheets online. 2025lbs per wheel with 20" rims. The next weak point is the axle/diff itself at 4100lbs.
Old 04-19-2014, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by scross86
...
The payload assumes you bought a base 4x4 crew cab work truck with no option. Figure in upgraded wheels, hitch, turbo plumbing, all the fun stuff. It adds up after a bit.
...
The yellow-sticker payload includes all the options on the truck as it leaves the factory.

Just a bit more on the limits of payload for the F150's. The rims are the weak point according to the spec sheets online. 2025lbs per wheel with 20" rims. The next weak point is the axle/diff itself at 4100lbs.
IIRC the rear axle GAWR can vary from 3850# to 4800# in F150's with the HD Payload option, which also has wheels with a 2400# rating. But the HD Payload option is rare, unfortunately.

Last edited by brulaz; 04-19-2014 at 06:30 PM.
Old 04-19-2014, 08:02 PM
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I can't help but post again. I have been on a lot of forums and never seen so many like this.


You will be perfectly fine! I promise if you are over you factory payload by a few lbs. it will not snap the truck in half! If you can measure the stopping distance from being right at your factory payload and being 1000-2000 lbs over you would need a micrometer.
Old 04-19-2014, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Carhlr
2014 Xlt screw 4x4 3.5 ecoboost max tow package 1864 payload (yellow sticker on door jamb) 3.73 rear end 145 Wheel base 5.5ft bed I'm pulling a 31 ft shadow cruiser with dry weight of 6650 lb dry hitch of 640 lb me wife and 3 kids reese hitch
You should be fine as long as you don't load a bunch of heavy items in the truck bed; like generator, jacks, tools, etc.
Old 04-19-2014, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by custm2500
I can't help but post again. I have been on a lot of forums and never seen so many like this.


You will be perfectly fine! I promise if you are over you factory payload by a few lbs. it will not snap the truck in half! If you can measure the stopping distance from being right at your factory payload and being 1000-2000 lbs over you would need a micrometer.

I would guess that would have to be one very large micrometer . You are right however. Like I said above, Ford rates the rims as the weak point for the axles and I can't say I've ever heard of a rim breaking due to an additional 100lbs on the truck .

I can't find the pdf file for the 2014's but the one for the 2013's is here;

https://www.fleet.ford.com/TRUCKBBAS...0Raptor_SB.pdf

It goes into great depth on what all the specs are. Good read if you like numbers, good sleeping material if you don't.



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