Nautique

OK I've been reading various sites, crunching numbers till I'm blind and here's where I'm at. It looks like I'm 200lbs short on payload for the trailer we're considering. Problem here is it's a toyhauler, so the listed tongue weight will be reduced somewhat when loaded, but how do you calculate that ?
Even with the hitch weight reduced, I will still need help with my payload. Of the various devices like helper springs, air bags, etc, which one would be the best to increase my payload, but not make it ride rough when empty using the above 200 lbs as a guide?
I'm sure I'll get some answers that say pick another trailer, but of the many we've looked at, this one is our choice so far. Also, the listed tongue weight includes the generator which I'll most likely remove for most of our trips. So for now, my plan is to see if we can make this trailer work.

Thanks

Ricktwuhk

In everything I've read on this forum, you cannot increase payload. Some things allow you to shift weight from the hitch back to the trailer (i.e. WDH), but payload remains unchanged.

UtahGuy

GVWR is GVWR and is based on several factors. Things like air bags or helper springs do nothing to strengthen your brakes or lengthen your wheelbase, for example. And besides, do you really want to haul your family and toys around in a tow combo on the ragged edge of safety? I wouldn't. I don't know much about towing but I know enough to know it sounds like you're going to get yourself in trouble. I think you need to consider a lighter trailer or a bigger truck.

brulaz

200# over payload is not that bad. I would be more concerned about rear GAWR..

Think of your trailer as a teeter-totter with the axles as the pivot point. 100# that is placed 10' behind the axles will lift 100# that is 10' in front, but only 50# that is 20' in front, and so on.

You can buy a Sherline tongue weight scale to get more exact. They can be really useful when your weights are movable, like with the toy.

If you always tow with the toy loaded up, that would help too.

When the truck is fully loaded or over-loaded you will need help with sagging and stability. GVWR is fixed. A lot of people like adjustable airbags. Others do something more permanent with an extra leaf. Many people like Bilstein shocks, Ranchos make an adjustble shock. LT tires are stiffer than P rated tires.

Ron AKA

A very rough way to calculate it would be to measure (estimate) the distance from the midpoint between the two trailer axles to the center of gravity of the "toy" (a bike I think?). Measure or estimate the distance from the center of the two trailer axels to the hitch ball connection. The formula for the reduction in hitch weight would be:


Hitch # Reduction = (distance to toy x weight of toy) / distance to hitch


You could do the same with the water tank in the trailer. Formula works for that too, providing the tank is behind the axles. If it is in front then the same formula works, but it will be a weight increase to the hitch, not a reduction.


Not sure how to increase the spring capacity best. I have used air shocks on a small truck some time ago, and they helped. Keep in mind there is the rating of the axle itself, and also the tires. Also the springs, axle, tires are like links in a chain. The weakest one determines the overall rating.

jchristian11

Classic!

smokeywren

You want your cake and eat it too. No can do. You can mask some of the the symptoms of being overloaded with air bags, but if you exceed the GVWR of the truck, then you'll be overloaded. Spell that out: O V E R L O A D E D !

Don't feel like the Lone Stranger. Lots of folks want to tow more trailer than their tow vehicle can safely handle. The smart ones get either a lighter trailer or a heavier-duty truck. But numerous idiots are on the road with overloaded tow vehicles. Most are lucky and make it home without a disaster, but many do not.


Ford, GM and Ram all have models that can tow that trailer without exceeding any of the manufacturer's weight ratings. Some half-ton pickups have a lot more payload capacity that others, depending on options. If you're buying a new F-150 for example, the ones with the Maximum Tow Package have 500 pounds more payload capacity than the normal F-150. And the ones with the Heavy Duty Payload Package have 1,000 or 1,100 pounds more payload capacity than the same truck with standard suspension. If an F-150 or 1500 won't do the job without exceeding the GVWR, get an F-250 or 2500. If that won't do it, then go up to an F-350 or 3500 SRW. The heavy trailers with GVWR more than about 12,000 pounds require a dually, and all three make F-350 or 3500 DRWs. And there are some huge luxury 5ers and LQ horse trailers and race trailers that will overload even a 350/3500 dually. But then you can buy a 450/4500 or 550/5500 or MDT that will do the job without overloading the tow vehicle.

So there is no excuse for being overloaded on the road. Selfishness for not wanting to spend the money required to do it right is not an acceptable excuse.

Yeah, those are "more truck" and they cost more money and probably burn more fuel and some "ride like a truck" when unloaded. But your family (and my family) will be safer if you have "enuff truck" for your load.

venatic

Check out KR Kodi's thread about his Trailer Toad.

https://www.f150forum.com/f82/did-lo...-great-265264/

Nautique

You guys are making me feel bad. I'm just doing my homework BEFORE purchasing a trailer. If I'm only off 200 lbs before loading the rear of the toy hauler, plus the reduction from the WD hitch, I might be below my limit. Plus the wife said she wants to go on a diet anyway.

We have found two more trailers that meet our criteria with less hitch weight, one by 120 lbs, but we we haven't looked at them yet.

Nautique

I saw a pic of that in the show me yours thread. Can you back with that thing ?