CowboyWill

I just bought a TT similar to your length and wieght. I would like to pick your brain for some experience pulling it and loading. I recently started a thread asking the same questions being asked in all these threads. Yes, I purchased the TT without educating myself, but im educating myself now and doing what I need to do to pull safely and without breaking my truck. Please PM me or check out my "real world towing experience" Thanks in advance!

11screw50

So you're saying I'm wrong.

OK. I'll take a look when you find it. So far nobody has been able to post anything that says payload is determined with a 150# driver so if you saw something and post it, you'd be the first.

I'm fine with being wrong, it's happened in the past and once it is pointed out, I generally post acknowledging it.

sunofabeach

I'm pretty sure that payload numbers do not include a 150lb driver. only fuel and any other liquids (oil, coolant, etc). only towing capabilities include a driver.


I would like to be proven wrong as well but I doubt it.

CowboyWill

Nah... ive read so much **** over the past couple weeks, I could be just patching **** together and making stuff up! I could have read that in a thread here, and it's not factual.

atwowheelguy

Try the OWNER'S MANUAL. They are free to download from Ford. They are also free with the purchase of every new vehicle. Look in the TABLE OF CONTENTS for the chapter labeled LOAD CARRYING.

That chapter defines GCWR, which has NO MENTION of the word DRIVER.

It also defines PAYLOAD, which also has NO MENTION of the word DRIVER, only OCCUPANTS AND CARGO.

It also defines MAXIMUM LOADED TRAILER WEIGHT, which assumes ONLY MANDATORY OPTIONS, NO TRUCK CARGO, A TONGUE WEIGHT OF 10-15% OF TRAILER WEIGHT, and ONLY A 150 LB. DRIVER.

CowboyWill

HA... Did you have to throw in the "reading is fundamental" jpeg? Well done :/

WestsydeGuy

If you take the engine and transmission and diffs and seats out....unbolt and remove the box and bumpers it should be way lighter.....

WestsydeGuy

Many people drive around alone much of the time or take 1 or 2 people along.
Buy a regular cab xlt.
Most who buy a 4x4 really don't need it....so buy a 2 wheel drive.
Get the 3.73 locker rear diff....if traction is low use locker and 2 tires are propelling the truck, which is the same as most 4x4s since they really only spin 1 front and 1 rear tire unless they have a locker so are actually just a 2 wheel drive. When loaded heavy much of that weight is on the rear tires greatly increasing traction.

Suddenly you have a lot of payload.

For anyone who read about using light weight brakes and tires DO NOT do that. You need big strong brakes when towing a heavy trailer or packing a heavy load. And I highly recommend LT tires with load range E not a light weight P tire.
A little common sense goes a long way.
I bet that half the people who buy a heavily optioned crew cab don't actually need it.
Do you need massaging seats and huge sunroofs?
Is 4x4 a must have item.
An xlt with 301 pkg, regcab and a set of katxkin seat covers in 2 wheel drive is a sweet truck.
Loving my new Toyo tires.
Pulling the boat out of the river and the lake i did not even use the locker.
Its my safety net if i do need it.

Martiangod

Your all forgetting the most important part, filling the tires and cab with Helium.
The cop will be so busy laughing when he talks to you, he wont write you a ticket

J15

There are several reasons not to do any of the steps listed in the OP:

1. Unless you're weighing your loaded trailer and calculating tongue weight every time you hitch up, the theoretical gains are too small to be accounted for.

2. That's a lot of sacrifice for what could be done in two trips on local runs.

3. You can trade in for a used gas F-250 at marginal cost.

If you're desperate enough to start sacrificing basic features for an extra hundred pounds here and ten pounds there, you bought the wrong truck. Whether or not you want to admit it, you need a 3/4 ton or full ton pickup.