xcntrk

What exactly got hot and what were the temperatures? Engine coolant temp, engine oil temp, or transmission oil temp?

Also just pointing out the obvious here, but 10k lb toy hauler is seriously super-duty territory, not half-ton V6.

itguy08

Unless they've changed the EB sure does have an oil cooler - Coolant to oil. You can see it in this pic - it's on the adapter plate for the oil filter.
http://blogsdir.cms.rrcdn.com/91/fil...boost-f150.jpg

Feathermerchant

It does have an oil cooler. It dumps its heat onto the coolant (radiator). So you may get some help by plumbing it to an external cooler. That cooler will not be oil but an antifreeze radiator like the engine radiator and require an electric pump.
Maybe there is an aftermarket extra large radiator.

acadianbob

Yes, you are correct about that. And it is misleading. There is definitely a different radiator in Max Tow though. 51 tubes. There are numerous threads about this very topic.

Boulevard

I would dump all your fluids, motor and transmission, and go to a proper synthetic in all. It must have Ester based written on the bottle and ignore anything that says semi-synthetic or synthetic blend. I use Motul but Amsoil is also supposed to be good. I put Motul 20W50 synthetic into an air cooled motor bike and the drop in operating temp has remarkable not to mention it quieted the engine down and removed all valve ticking.


Look in your manual and go to the thickest synthetic that you can. It may not lower temps but nothing survives heat and protects parts like a synthetic oil. On a side note it is common knowledge that synthetics are naturally thinner than conventional oils of the same viscosity so a thick synthetic is actually thinner than the same conventional. In my own little bench test the 20W50 that I put into the bike was thinner and poured faster than the 15W40 that it replaced.

etcbrown

Yes and no. Ford tells me the truck is capable of theoretically towing 11,200lbs.

The power is adequate, the braking and handling are in my estimation as good as my 2000 Superduty diesel that I previously owned.

The weak link here is cooling.

etcbrown

Sorry, missed the first part of your reply.

Everything got hot.

Started out I was monitoring transmission temps, typically the weak link. They were hovering around 220 F. Warm but not awful.

As I was pulling this long grade at relatively slow speeds my belief is that the CAC became heatsoaked and started introducing large amounts of additional heat to the drivetrain.

Once that happened the temps for everything - Transmission, coolant and oil started to climb at an alarming rate. Literally less than 2 minutes things went from within normal parameters to not healthy.

etcbrown

Thanks all for the replies.

I think the lower temp thermostat would be potentially a problem and wouldn't likely help anyway since at operating temp the thermostat would normally be open.

I do like the recommendation to introduce high quality fresh synthetic fluids (even though the viscosity argument was amusing since viscosity is a physical property and cannot by definition vary between organic and synthetic fluids) of the proper viscosity.

In the end adding a larger transmission cooler, an additional inline oil cooler, and an aftermarket higher capacity intercooler with an electric fan will be my goal.

If that doesn't work I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and get a new SuperDuty diesel.

Feathermerchant

You could try monitoring the radiator fan voltage. On my 2011, there are only 2 speeds. but with all fans they should get a full 12V on high speed. If you are going slow and pulling a load, fan operation is critical. It will effect all the temps you mentioned. CAC, coolant, trans, and oil.

RedOne

So did the dash lights all light up or did it just get higher than you ever saw it before? or ???
If the truck gets too hot it should go into limp mode and reduce horsepower... maybe even stalling you out with that much weight and steep incline.