Gigantapithicus

Just wondered if there's a list out there for preparing the truck for the summer towing season?


I searched for forum a bit, did searched about fluid types (tranny, oil, synthetics, etc), rad flushes, etc.


What does everyone do come spring to get their truck ready? I'm at 80,000 kms and not sure what the prior owner did.


I'm thinking:
Check brakes (and trailer)
Flush Radiator
Change Tranny fluid?
Change Oil? (go synthetic?)
Test Battery
Do differential fluids need changed?
Rotate Tires




Thanks!

smurfs_of_war

What does everyone do come spring to get their truck ready? I'm at 80,000 kms and not sure what the prior owner did.


I'm thinking:
Check brakes (and trailer) Yes
Flush Radiator Likely not necessary
Change Tranny fluid? Yes- go synth
Change Oil? (go synthetic?) Synth isn't necessary, but I prefer it.
Test Battery Yes, also make sure the proper fuses and relays are installed for the 7 pin harness and TBC if you haven't already.
Do differential fluids need changed? I would- go synthetic. I think it even states somewhere that you should change to synthetic in the diffs if towing- can't remember where I read it though.
Rotate Tires- Yup, and more frequently too. The weight applied on the rear axle will help wear the rears out quicker than normal.

I would also check and repack the bearings on the trailer too if it's used. Make sure the equipment on the tongue is working properly, throw a bit of grease in the cup for the ball too. I grease the locking mechanism as well.

ecobeest

You didn't mention it so, check tire pressure on ALL tires including spares on rig and truck.

Double check all trailer wiring etc, looking for frays and/or rubbing.

custm2500

Depending on what you are towing air bags are often a big help to keep your ride great and truck level and handling properly. Other then that you have everything covered.


If you do change fluids make sure they are all approved for you truck. Main thing I am talking about is for he diffs. Confirm if you need Limited slip additive for the rear diff. If you need it and don't use it you will ruin the rear differential.

tomb1269

I disagree w/ Smurfs of war; 80000km = 50000miles (check owners manual for the required/suggested checks etc., and unless you tow every day or several times a week then stick to the standard use schedule)
Check brakes (and trailer) - yes inspect, if greater than 75% wear change out and use better pads (also suggest tossing front rotors when brakes are done Personal preference)
Flush Radiator - Not needed, water wetter can help, I actually add Bars alumminum stop leak with water wetter as a standard once auto reachs 75000 to 80000 miles as a safety measure against leaks
Change Tranny fluid? - May be a good idea, stick to Mercon V as Fords are fussy and it is synthetic.
Change Oil? (go synthetic?) - I have one synthetic, mobil one and filter. It been written the fords do not like Frams.
Test Battery - yes, as a general. Most likely will not see anything until there is a problem.
Do differential fluids need changed? - No, diffs should be fine along with transfer. check levels. If you do any work to them Limited slip requires additive
Rotate Tires - yes, and check pressure every time you hook up to trailer and each morning while towing (tires will be cool in the AM for accurate check)
Visually inspect hoses for bulging, rubbing signs of leakage.
Check belts for wear.

Good luck and enjoy Rving this Summer

Boulevard

You are doing all the right things a getting lots of good advice....with 1 exception....hook up the trailer and take 'er for a rip! The truck and the trailer will work as a unit and you need to test them together. A test tow allows you to try the sway control, the brake control, load distribution, truck/trailer stability, bearing temps, truck running temps, etc. A test pull of an hour out and an hour back can mean a world of difference and if things are going to screw up than better to screw up during a test than during the start a real deal vacation. I do this every year and I swear by it.

smokeywren

In a nutshell, all that is spelled out in your Owner's Guide and/or Maintenance Guide. Read it and do what it says.

As a general rule, synthetics are not cost effective, but Ford requires them for some applications. My 2012 EcoBoost requires 5w30 synthetic blend motor oil, and the other 2012 engines require 5w20 synthetic blend. However for all 2012 F-150 engines full synthetic is approved.

For my axles (differentials or diffs), full synthetic 75W140 gear lube is required for the rear axle and plain ole 80w90 dino gear lube for the front axle. However, the full synthetic rear axle lube is good for the life of your diff if you don't dunk the diff in water - such as launching a boat or fording a stream and allowing water to cover the diff. So even though Ford doesn't require it for we that don't dunk our diffs in water, you can bet that the old guys like me are going to change the diff lube about every 100,000 miles.

For tranny fluid, pay attention! Plain ole MERCON V is no longer good enough for my 2012. Instead Ford says I have to fill up with MERCON LV. But Ford requires it to be changed only every 150,000 miles, so most of you won't ever need to change it if you follow Ford's recommendations. You can bet that the old guys like me are going to change the ATF about every 75,000 miles or more often.

Coolant? Keep it topped off with 50/50 antifreeze of the correct spec, then change it completely at 100,000 miles or 6 years, whichever comes first. Use distilled water and undiluted antifreeze when you change it. If you use 50/50, then you'll probably wind up with less than 50% antifreeze because you cannot drain all the distilled water you flushed with.

My 2012 EcoBoost cooling system capacity is 16.5 quarts, so I'm going to flush it really good with distilled water, then drain it good and button it up, pour in 9 quarts of undiluted antifreeze, and top off with distilled water.

acadianbob

There is virtually nothing to do if you have been maintaining your truck along the way. The day you tow, you will want to raise your tire pressures to the maximum allowed on the sidewall. Don't obsess.

Dirttracker18

^^^^

Poor advice there. You need to better understand tire pressure and it's purpose.

Simple going to max pressure is incorrect.

Ultimately you should calculate your correct air pressure based on the tire manufacturers ratings and the weight each tire is carrying.

However a chalk test can get you in the ball park and a little up or down from there.

If you require max pressures, you require better tires for the load you are carrying.

acadianbob

That is nuts. You put the maximum air pressure in your tires while towing for maximum stability. You are saying to never use the maximum rated tire pressure. That makes absolutely no sense at all.