f150 3.5 vs f250 6.7 long run reliability and maintenance costs?
#21
The last one was assembled in October, 2002. Over 10 years ago. Very few 10-year-old-pickups are going to be reliable, regardless of miles or TLC. Yeah, the 7.3L engine will probably last over 400,000 miles, but the rest of the pickup is just an ordinary Ford. Brakes, axles, springs, shocks, transmissions, driveshafts, altenator, air conditioning compressor, water pump, an other components will continue to fall apart.
I bought a brand new '99.5 7.3L and drove it 197,000 miles over 11 years. I installed a bulletproof BTS tranny, which today costs about $5,000. I replaced the stock intake with a Ford Severe Duty Air Induction System (AIS), had a 4" turbo-back free-flow exhaust system, an changed the oil about every 5,500 miles per oil analysis. I ran a DP-Tuner 60-tow tune and drug an 8,000-pound 5er most of those miles. When I sold it, it was still running like new. But I knew that normal wear items were going to begin going south, so I gave it up.
I bought a brand new '99.5 7.3L and drove it 197,000 miles over 11 years. I installed a bulletproof BTS tranny, which today costs about $5,000. I replaced the stock intake with a Ford Severe Duty Air Induction System (AIS), had a 4" turbo-back free-flow exhaust system, an changed the oil about every 5,500 miles per oil analysis. I ran a DP-Tuner 60-tow tune and drug an 8,000-pound 5er most of those miles. When I sold it, it was still running like new. But I knew that normal wear items were going to begin going south, so I gave it up.
#23
Grumpy Old Man
I replaced my 4R100 at around 112,000 miles with a BTS. I had taken excellent care of the tranny, including running Mobil 1 ATF and doing a complete ATF change per Mark Kovalsky's procedures every 30k miles. When Brian at Brian's Truck Shop (BTS) tore down the tranny, he said the tranny would probably have lasted another 100k miles, but the torque converter was on it's last legs. If the torque converter lets loose and goes south, it will take the tranny with it.
So if your 4R100 tranny is the original OEM tranny, I would immediately replace the torque converter now, with a stock Ford OEM converter. Then at around 200k miles, begin planning on a rebuilt tranny from BTS, John Wood, or as a minimum with a Ford Heavy Duty rebuilt 4R100. Or if you just want a rebuilt tranny that will last another two or three years, then the normal Ford rebuilt 4R100 is all you'll need. Those are available from the parts department for around $2600 list or $2,150 from a discount Ford parts dealer such as:
http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/part...t=TRANSMISSION
Here are Mark's ATF change procedures:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...ission-198641/
Here is a discussion of the Ford Heavy Duty 4R100 that costs a bit less than a BTS or John Wood:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...-4r100-264248/
#24
Smokeywren, thanks for all of your input, it's very helpful. I really appreciate the links. I have a follow-on question (are we surprised? )
I took the Excursion for a pre-purchase inspection at Longmont Ford, so I knew before I bought it that I'm going to need to have two oil leaks fixed: the oil cooler seal and the oil pan seal. I was told by the Ford mechanic that they would need to pull the engine to fix these seals. My question is, when the engine is pulled, can they easily do what Brian did and look at the torque converter to tell whether it's on its last legs? Basically, will I save some labor costs by having these things done at the same time? Will any reasonably good mechanic be able to tell how the torque converter is doing? Also, should I have this work done by a Ford mechanic, or can I branch out to save some money? The Longmont Ford people warned me not to go to the Ford dealer in my city (I won't say which city since I don't want to start any fights, but I had previously heard bad things about them). Thanks for answering all of my newbie questions.
I took the Excursion for a pre-purchase inspection at Longmont Ford, so I knew before I bought it that I'm going to need to have two oil leaks fixed: the oil cooler seal and the oil pan seal. I was told by the Ford mechanic that they would need to pull the engine to fix these seals. My question is, when the engine is pulled, can they easily do what Brian did and look at the torque converter to tell whether it's on its last legs? Basically, will I save some labor costs by having these things done at the same time? Will any reasonably good mechanic be able to tell how the torque converter is doing? Also, should I have this work done by a Ford mechanic, or can I branch out to save some money? The Longmont Ford people warned me not to go to the Ford dealer in my city (I won't say which city since I don't want to start any fights, but I had previously heard bad things about them). Thanks for answering all of my newbie questions.
#25
Grumpy Old Man
To pull the engine, first they have to pull the tranny. While the tranny is out, it's a simple job to replace the torque converter. It's right there. Takes a few minutes to R&R the torque converter. A new OEM torque converter is about two hundred dollars for the parts from a discount Ford parts dealer that charges 10% over cost, so maybe you can twist the arm of the parts manager and get him to agree to a price of dealer's cost plus 10% for the new torque converter.
Basically, will I save some labor costs by having these things done at the same time?
Will any reasonably good mechanic be able to tell how the torque converter is doing?
Also, should I have this work done by a Ford mechanic, or can I branch out to save some money?
The Longmont Ford people warned me not to go to the Ford dealer in my city...
Last edited by smokeywren; 05-06-2013 at 01:19 PM.