uzikaduzi

not sure if i'm using the right wording... but the hot side would have power when the fuse is out and the other side would lead to whatever it's powering.

I actually looked around and not sure what year you have but fuse #37 should be open and have key on power on the 2010's... I assume 09+ the fuse block is the same or very similar. then you could run a fuse in that spot and not have that tab that you mentioned looked cheap

Dirttracker18

First of all you need to put some kind of gromet where that line enters the channel or it will eventually fail due to rubbing.

Next, why not wire the compressor through a relay from the battery and just have the switch run from a fused spot? Then there would be no worry about the amount of draw. There are plenty of "key on" fuses, that really shoulfn't be an issue.

custm2500

Run a direct power wire from the battery. That compressor won't pull more then 10-15 amps. Get a fuse 20-30 amp fuse and install it within 12 inches of the battery and you will be perfect. And I would assume you have a relay running the compressor. Any circuit in the truck will power the switch to operate the relay.


Bummer that it took you 8 hours but I don't think you are too far behind what many others would take. We installed them in just under two hours but we had two guys and a lift. By myself I think I could have a it done in 2.5 hours with a lift and maybe 3 with out a lift. Anyhow you have it on!


The advice of getting some protection for the line going into the frame should be followed asap. Get some wire loom and put over it and you will be fine. Each time you change the oil make sure the loom is in good shape and you will never have an issue. I doubt the loom will ever wear through but better safe then sorry.