Advise on Weight Distribution Hitch
#11
Thanks guys I will check locally to see what's available. I'm looking at a Reese SC WDH that uses friction pads any ones opinions? I'm a little limited locally to what I can get.
#12
Just make sure the Strait-Line is installed correctly. Many installers can't install them correctly. Mine wasn't and grenaded. Luckily no one was hurt. Just make sure that the bars, when turned at a sharp angle, don't hit the ball threads or pivot on the cam lobes. Many at Rv.net say the best thing to do is to get 6 or 7 links between the hanger bracket and the arm bracket. Also even though some say you can, take the bars off before making very sharp angles while backing up. That way the bars won't hit and push on anything while your backing in.
For a more simply approach, the Equalizer brand may be the way to go, but it uses steel to steel friction on it's arms and compression friction in the head. These 'could' cause dog tracking on slick roads. The Equalizer is better than the Reese SC because it uses friction on the head which the SC does not, and it doesn't use pads that wear out. The Reese Strait-Line system uses a different concept based on Cams which works really good.
Dog tracking refers to a condition where the trailer wheels do not follow straight behind the truck because the friction of the hitch can not be overcome by the force of the trailer. The trailer wheels track off to one side.
Last edited by Mike Up; 06-29-2014 at 02:29 AM.
#14
Senior Member
#15
2013 F150 Super Crew, 6000 Lbs. travel trailer, Blue Ox WDH with 1500 lb bars = 70 mph down I-75 for 1 hour sustained. 100% stable, 100% no sway, 100% safe. You can buy ****, or you can buy hitching and Blue Ox is hitching.
#16
Grumpy Old Man
Ignore dry hitch weight and compute real-world hitch weight. Hitch weight will range from 12.5% to 15% of the gross weight of a properly-loaded car hauler trailer. Assume you'll have the trailer loaded to its GVWR, so use 15% of 7,000 pounds, or 1,050 pounds wet and loaded hitch weight.
Here is a link to the specs for the least-expensive enclosed car hauler trailer made by Pace American.
http://www.looktrailers.com/gallery/...ney_Auto_2.pdf
Can you guys advise me of a good system I can use on my '13 Supercrew F150 FX4?
Here's a source for my Strait-Line:
Note that hitch does not include the adjustable shank. Reese makes a stock number that includes that same hitch as well as the shank, so shop around and you'll find it - probably on e-trailer.com. Or buy the shank as a separate purchase on Amazon.com - probably another $100 or so.
For the really serious trailer puller that wants absolutely no sway, you can get a ProPride hitch. But my ProPride cost about 4 times as much as my Strait-Line, so not many folks are willing to spend that much for a hitch until after they have experienced severe uncontrollable trailer sway.
One question I have is that some WDH are rated at 600lbs, 800lbs, 1,200lbs. Would 600lbs be enough or should I be safe and get a larger one then I need?
My tongue weight on my TT will probably never be more than 850 pounds, but my ProPride hitch is rated for up to 1,400 pounds hitch weight. But it's simple to adjust the actual weight on the spring bars. On my ProPride, I simply turn a jack handle until I have the correct tension on the spring bars. On my Reese Straight-Line on my cargo trailer, I can add or subtract a chain length to adjust the tension on the spring bars.
Last edited by smokeywren; 07-01-2014 at 08:59 PM.
#17
At rv.net, the 2 best 'inexpensive' hitches are said to be the Equal-i-zer brand hitch and the Reese Strait line. The 'previous' Blue Ox Swaypro with adjustable head angle was a strong 3rd. The best hitches are Pro-Pride, Hensley, and Pull Rite, but they'll set you back a couple grand.
Last edited by Mike Up; 07-01-2014 at 10:47 PM.
#18
The 1200 lbs bars work great and I have little porpoising unless the pavement is really really bad. I have absolutely "0" sway even in high 40 mph winds. My rig then gets blown around as a single unit.
Last edited by Mike Up; 07-01-2014 at 10:42 PM.
#19
I hate to say it but you may be right. The new Blue Ox look to be less of a hitch than my 7 year old model. That said a brand new/old model Blue Ox is going for $740.00 on RVpartscanada.ca. In the states PPLmotorhomes.com is also offering the new/old style Blue Ox for $600.00
I was in a big RV place in the States this weekend and I got a look at both the Reese straight line and the Equal-i-zer and they both look like toys when compared to the Blue Ox. The Blue Ox is simply massive and made to handle 1500 lb tongue weight. The only dis-advantage is the weight of the head unit. Believe me, proper lifting technique is a must.
I was in a big RV place in the States this weekend and I got a look at both the Reese straight line and the Equal-i-zer and they both look like toys when compared to the Blue Ox. The Blue Ox is simply massive and made to handle 1500 lb tongue weight. The only dis-advantage is the weight of the head unit. Believe me, proper lifting technique is a must.
#20
I hate to say it but you may be right. The new Blue Ox look to be less of a hitch than my 7 year old model. That said a brand new/old model Blue Ox is going for $740.00 on RVpartscanada.ca. In the states PPLmotorhomes.com is also offering the new/old style Blue Ox for $600.00
I was in a big RV place in the States this weekend and I got a look at both the Reese straight line and the Equal-i-zer and they both look like toys when compared to the Blue Ox. The Blue Ox is simply massive and made to handle 1500 lb tongue weight. The only dis-advantage is the weight of the head unit. Believe me, proper lifting technique is a must.
I was in a big RV place in the States this weekend and I got a look at both the Reese straight line and the Equal-i-zer and they both look like toys when compared to the Blue Ox. The Blue Ox is simply massive and made to handle 1500 lb tongue weight. The only dis-advantage is the weight of the head unit. Believe me, proper lifting technique is a must.