Advice: Maximizing my F150, 5.0 for towing RV
#11
#12
Nothing beats a properly setup WDH. Mine is the old style round bar with one friction sway control on it, and keeps my 28' Coleman under tight control in all conditions.
#13
Ive bene happy with my Equal-i-zer 1000. My hitch weight is close to yours (760-800 lb including WDH) and my trailer weighs around 7000 lb. 28' 11". Your Truck weighs more than mine. I would work on WDH setup. I think I'm a little stiff but its the WDH Equal-I-zer recommended and I don't have any sway issues.
If all else fails check out the Tuson TSC-1000 if you can easily access your trailer wiring. If it works for you its a lot cheaper than any of the high dollar specialty hitches..
If all else fails check out the Tuson TSC-1000 if you can easily access your trailer wiring. If it works for you its a lot cheaper than any of the high dollar specialty hitches..
Last edited by Gene K; 02-21-2017 at 03:14 AM.
#14
Senior Member
I have '14 scab 5.0 3.73 6.5 ft. bed with cap. Handled poorly while towing. Added LT E range Michelins, rear sway bar, rancho adjustable shocks. Now tows solid as a rock.
Trailer 24' loaded 5500 lbs. tongue weight 875 lbs. Towed with 302 Bronco, 5.4 '99 so does just fine with '14 5.0. All 3 have been over many 10K mountain passes. Adding many more this Sept. Ya it was a slow grind with the Bronco but it still beat the n/a diesels.
Trailer 24' loaded 5500 lbs. tongue weight 875 lbs. Towed with 302 Bronco, 5.4 '99 so does just fine with '14 5.0. All 3 have been over many 10K mountain passes. Adding many more this Sept. Ya it was a slow grind with the Bronco but it still beat the n/a diesels.
#15
Great advice here, Thanks all! I went to trailer & took some measurement & found that one of the dual cam sway plates attached to the frame of the trailer was an inch closer to the ball receiver than the other side. My specs called it for 20.5 inches from center bolt to center of coupler. I found 19 inches on right side & 20 inches on left. I loosened both sides of the cam adjuster nuts out & hooked it up with the chains & drove it around a few times than stopped it straight. The cams adjusted themselves to where they should seat & were in the center position of the spring bars. I tightened them up & one side has 1 more inch of thread showing than the other. I'm thinking that may have caused some sway issue when hooked up? I will see next time I hit the road with the trailer. I also adjusted the height of the hitch ball to bring up the spring bar height to where it should be . I needed 12 inches from tip of bar to ground as opposed to the 9 inches they were set at. the front measurement of the fender to ground actually went down a 1/2 inch so I may have to add a link into the snap up bracket & put some more weight on the tongue. These things sure are a PIA to get right. Also will max tire pressure to see if that helps firm up the sidewalls a bit.
#16
Before you adjust it anymore, drive it and see. Dropping the front 1/2" may be what is needed. Now is that a 1/2" more than it was, or from unladen?
#18
Senior Member
Good advice here already. Your on the right track with the gearing change for sure.
I would absolutely get the load range E tires and avoid the urge to go with a taller tire.
I would suggest air bags over any of the other helper spring type options.
The 5.0 engine is great for towing, you just need to let it rev, that is what its designed to do, its not hurting it one bit. I would never allow my transmission to get into 6th gear towing that load, lock it out for sure. Id even lock out 5th if I found that it was still downshifting a lot. Again, let it rev, your whole drive train will be happier.
I would absolutely get the load range E tires and avoid the urge to go with a taller tire.
I would suggest air bags over any of the other helper spring type options.
The 5.0 engine is great for towing, you just need to let it rev, that is what its designed to do, its not hurting it one bit. I would never allow my transmission to get into 6th gear towing that load, lock it out for sure. Id even lock out 5th if I found that it was still downshifting a lot. Again, let it rev, your whole drive train will be happier.
The following users liked this post:
robert999 (03-16-2017)
#19
Load Range C are fine for a F150. They come on the F150 heavy duty payload package trucks and I have had them on several F150's. They are not squishy feeling like the P metric. In my opinion a E range tire is not needed for a F150. A C range tire is rated at 2500 lbs which is plenty for a "1/2 ton" truck.
Unfortunately the 5.0 makes its torque higher than the ecoboost so you will have to live with some of the shifting. I would probably consider 4.10 gears if it's not your daily driver
Unfortunately the 5.0 makes its torque higher than the ecoboost so you will have to live with some of the shifting. I would probably consider 4.10 gears if it's not your daily driver
#20
Agreed, I had E rated on my F350 Dually, C rating is above the GAWR anyway so going to an E is overkill and gives an even harsher unladen ride.
The Bridgestone Duellers on 20" rims have a 2403# weight rating, thats 4806# on a 3800# axle. They are P rated tires, and worked very well towing a 6300# trailer.
The Bridgestone Duellers on 20" rims have a 2403# weight rating, thats 4806# on a 3800# axle. They are P rated tires, and worked very well towing a 6300# trailer.