9k GTWR lb Trailer - is my math correct?
10-01-2016, 05:25 PM
#12
Senior Member
Driver is not included in Payload.
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Velosprout (10-01-2016)
10-01-2016, 09:30 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
10-02-2016, 09:58 AM
#15
Ok everyone the 150lb driver issue is moot either way. Realistically if we are so close that 150lbs is the deal breaker we are too close. I know, I am at max payload everytime I hook up to my GN. I bet if all of you who are worrying about 150lbs weighed your cars like your trucks you would have a stroke. I bet everytime you load up your midsize or smaller car with 5 folks averaging over 180lbs and their bags for a weekend trip, you are up to 300 over payload.
For instance a Lincoln MKS we drove had a 1100 lb payload. With 5 people at 2 at 200, 3 at 150, you are already at 950. 5 average week long trip bags, some light fishing gear and a yeti cooler of beer in the trunk and you hit 1300 or more easy.
For instance a Lincoln MKS we drove had a 1100 lb payload. With 5 people at 2 at 200, 3 at 150, you are already at 950. 5 average week long trip bags, some light fishing gear and a yeti cooler of beer in the trunk and you hit 1300 or more easy.
Last edited by 5.0GN tow; 10-02-2016 at 10:00 AM.
10-02-2016, 05:23 PM
#16
Grumpy Old Man
The "V-5" on the receiver hitch does NOT mean the hitch is rated as a class 5 hitch. The V-5 is an engineering certification that the hitch meets the engineering standards of the towing industry.That's a class III/IV receiver; class III with a weight-carrying hitch, and class IV with a weight-distributing hitch.
Side note - what WDH do you guys recommend for my configuration?
Here are the good hitches with good sway prevention:
Reese Strait-Line with trunnion bars
Equal-I-Zer
Blue Ox SwayPro
Or if you want the best sway prevention available but at four times the price of those three above then you want the ProPride.
For the Reese Strait-Line, they come with or without the adjustable shank. You have to have the shank, so if you see it for less than $500 it's probably because that's without the $100+ shank. Here's my Strait-Line with shank that I use to tow an enclosed cargo trailer:
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66084.html
And here's the ProPride I use to tow my TT:
http://www.propridehitch.com/product...ol-Hitch-.html
10-02-2016, 06:54 PM
#17
The "V-5" on the receiver hitch does NOT mean the hitch is rated as a class 5 hitch. The V-5 is an engineering certification that the hitch meets the engineering standards of the towing industry.That's a class III/IV receiver; class III with a weight-carrying hitch, and class IV with a weight-distributing hitch.
DO NOT buy a cheap hitch. If it uses sway bars for sway control, that's a cheap hitch. If it costs less than $500 from a discount on-line discount source, then it's probably a cheap hitch. Good WD hitches with good sway prevention list for around $1,000 and can be bought new for around $500 to $600.
Here are the good hitches with good sway prevention:
Reese Strait-Line with trunnion bars
Equal-I-Zer
Blue Ox SwayPro
Or if you want the best sway prevention available but at four times the price of those three above then you want the ProPride.
For the Reese Strait-Line, they come with or without the adjustable shank. You have to have the shank, so if you see it for less than $500 it's probably because that's without the $100+ shank. Here's my Strait-Line with shank that I use to tow an enclosed cargo trailer:
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66084.html
And here's the ProPride I use to tow my TT:
http://www.propridehitch.com/product...ol-Hitch-.html
DO NOT buy a cheap hitch. If it uses sway bars for sway control, that's a cheap hitch. If it costs less than $500 from a discount on-line discount source, then it's probably a cheap hitch. Good WD hitches with good sway prevention list for around $1,000 and can be bought new for around $500 to $600.
Here are the good hitches with good sway prevention:
Reese Strait-Line with trunnion bars
Equal-I-Zer
Blue Ox SwayPro
Or if you want the best sway prevention available but at four times the price of those three above then you want the ProPride.
For the Reese Strait-Line, they come with or without the adjustable shank. You have to have the shank, so if you see it for less than $500 it's probably because that's without the $100+ shank. Here's my Strait-Line with shank that I use to tow an enclosed cargo trailer:
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66084.html
And here's the ProPride I use to tow my TT:
http://www.propridehitch.com/product...ol-Hitch-.html
10-02-2016, 10:53 PM
#18
Grumpy Old Man
The cheaper hitches have much less effective sway prevention. In fact, most of them admit to sway control, not sway prevention.
The WD part of the economy WD hitches works okay for distributing the hitch weight off the rear axle of the tow vehicle. The difference is in sway prevention. My Reese Strait-Line hitch will prevent about 99% of all sway control problems. For 4 times the money, my ProPride will prevent about 99.99 percent of all sway control problems.
If you've ever had uncontrollable trailer sway, you'll pay a lot to be sure it never happens again. That's why the WD hitch on my TT is a ProPride.
10-03-2016, 09:00 AM
#19
Wow, you and your wife are light weights. Don't forget kids eat a lot and grow. They also like to bring toys with them on trips to keep them from bother you. Those do add weight. While it appears to be within spec and you can't be in the camper and the truck at the same time, some people on this forum have changed their camper and/or towing vehicle, because they didn't feel comfortable.
10-03-2016, 11:31 PM
#20
Truck
2016 F150 XLT / SCREW / 3.5 EB / 157" / 3.55 locking rear
- Max Tow Package
- GCWR = 17,100
- Payload Sticker = 1,865
- No accessories, all stock.
Travel Camper
- 29' Box
- UVW (empty) Rating = 6,273 lbs
- Hitch Weight (empty) = 735 lbs (11.7%)
- Max Cargo = 2,892 lbs
- GTWR = 9,200 lbs
So rounding up and using 12% @ 9,200 lbs GTWR, that would bring me to 1,104 hitch weight + 50lb WDH = 1,154 on the tongue.
1,865 max payload - 1,154 tongue weight would give me 711 lbs left over. My wife and kids weigh 350 lbs combined - so this leaves me with 361 lbs payload.
It's not a lot - but within spec - correct? I would obviously have to leave the bed completely empty during towing.
Also worth considering we would rarely (if ever) max out the trailer load rating as we would likely only go on weekend trips, or at max a week with the tanks all empty while towing.
I haven't bought the RV, this was one I was just considering and wanted to make sure my math was correct as I continue to look.
EDIT - wanted to ask - do most RV dealers have scales on-site to verify their numbers with? If not, how can I verify before purchasing? I've read that dealer numbers can be off sometimes.
2016 F150 XLT / SCREW / 3.5 EB / 157" / 3.55 locking rear
- Max Tow Package
- GCWR = 17,100
- Payload Sticker = 1,865
- No accessories, all stock.
Travel Camper
- 29' Box
- UVW (empty) Rating = 6,273 lbs
- Hitch Weight (empty) = 735 lbs (11.7%)
- Max Cargo = 2,892 lbs
- GTWR = 9,200 lbs
So rounding up and using 12% @ 9,200 lbs GTWR, that would bring me to 1,104 hitch weight + 50lb WDH = 1,154 on the tongue.
1,865 max payload - 1,154 tongue weight would give me 711 lbs left over. My wife and kids weigh 350 lbs combined - so this leaves me with 361 lbs payload.
It's not a lot - but within spec - correct? I would obviously have to leave the bed completely empty during towing.
Also worth considering we would rarely (if ever) max out the trailer load rating as we would likely only go on weekend trips, or at max a week with the tanks all empty while towing.
I haven't bought the RV, this was one I was just considering and wanted to make sure my math was correct as I continue to look.
EDIT - wanted to ask - do most RV dealers have scales on-site to verify their numbers with? If not, how can I verify before purchasing? I've read that dealer numbers can be off sometimes.