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2016 Towing Capacity issues w/new boat

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Old 12-21-2016, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 11screw50
Weird thing is that lower tow capacity didn't exist in 2015 and from what I've seen it doesn't exist in 2017. For some reason in 2017 it's the Special Edition Package that has the lower tow rating. And again only with the 5.0.



Yup, this (although I'd have said 1800+ range).

Could it be a cooling thing with the unique grill.
Old 10-01-2017, 12:04 AM
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Looks like auyocorrect isbetter on ios than android. (On tablet niw)
Old 10-03-2017, 12:33 PM
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Remove your leveling kit to start with.
Try sliding the trailer axles ahead an inch at a time till your hitch weight is down to where it should be.
Make sure you consider the hitch weight with the boats gas tank empty and full. As the tanks location could significantly alter the percentage of the boat/trailer gross weight. I had to compromise some with my boats hitch weight and it tows very nicely, but is about 0.5% low when the tank is empty at 4.5% hitch weight, and about 2.25% too heavy if the tank is full of gas at 7.25% on the hitch. It tows perfectly and no sway with the gas tank empty or full, its just finding the balance.
But you are definitely a bit heavy on the hitch now for sure.
And those leveling kits ruin hauling and towing for people who use their truck as a truck was meant to be used.
As a grocery store run truck only a level kit is acceptable I guess.
But Ford designed the F150 to haul loads in the box, and tow trailers, the rake is so its closer to level when towing and not extremely nose high.
Old 12-01-2017, 09:55 AM
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Delete wrong thread
Old 12-02-2017, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dansky78
Wow! I have been reading so much on towing, that my eyes are burning. I have learned a lot and had no idea how complicated this subject is. Unfortunately, I did not do this research before my recent boat purchase.
The dealer told me when I bought my truck 3 months ago "It can tow up to 9100 lbs." Now I see the BS in that statement.

I have a 2016 Screw XLT 5.0, with the Trailer Tow Package and 3.31 electronic locking axle. It has a dealer installed level kit as well.

I live in Miami and drove up to Jacksonville this weekend to purchase my new boat. Once I got there, I ended up getting an even better deal on a larger demo boat. It took me 5 hours to get there, and almost 10 hours to get home. Other than the rear sag, the truck handled the trip well. I was not 100% confident in my towing setup and weight so I took it very, very slow and pulled over every 100 miles to check. I also drove late at night to make sure if something did go wrong, I did not have a bunch of travelers around me.

Now that I am home and started reading more on this great forum, I know I need to get my GCWR for both the truck and trailer, as well as my tongue weight.
Honestly, I don't even want to hook up now to take it to the scale until I feel more confident. I feel pretty irresponsible for making that long trip now, and I am lucky nothing went wrong. I am coming here for advice, not judgment.
I know this was stupid, and my wife is giving me an earful for trading in my 2015 F250 for the F150 (another story).

So using the data I could get regarding the boat and trailer:
Trailer = 1403 lbs.
Boat = 4700 lbs.
160 gallons of fuel = 1040 lbs.
misc gear = 500 lbs.
TOTAL GVW = ~7643 lbs
Calculated Tongue (5% of GVW) = ~382*

*I am pretty sure that my tongue weight was much higher as you can see it the picture below. I ordered a Trailer Tongue Weight Scale today to verify.

After reading on here, I crawled under my truck and found the sticker for the factory hitch which is 5000/500. I think what saved me on the trip home was that the boat had no fuel, but I was still over 5000.

So I wanted to come on here and ask for recommendations on how to safely tow my load 5 miles round trip to the boat ramp (better hitch, airbags, gear change, etc.). The boat ramp I use is well maintained, and in all of the years I had my previous 4x4, I never needed it.


I'm new to this forum, but I'm not new to trucks and towing. You said that you didn't have stability problems and that you just weren't comfortable due to the sag. Your tongue weight at 600-700 isn't outrageous and I would not lower it. Lowering it could cause other handling problems. I like to think of recommended tongue weights as minimums, not targets. The higher the tongue weight the better a trailer tracks and the more stable it is. Period. The limit to tongue weight is any adverse condition it creates for the truck itself. So leave the trailer alone, and let's work on the truck.

You did the right thing by ordering the WDH. However, if the boat trailer is listed as not being able to take it you may need to reinforce the tongue (broken tongue no fun on the highway!!!). Or you may look into a new boat trailer (sometimes the one's sold with the boat are not even rated to carry the boat). The WDH and reinforced trailer tongue could completely solve any issues you have and will allow you to adjust weight off the rear axle in the event that you are over the rating (don't know if you are or not)

While the front leveling kit is not a good idea for towing, it probably isn't degrading stability much. I wouldn't have it but to each his own (if you keep it adjust your head lights!). Having the truck level is not as important as having a 2 axle trailer level. Trailer should be flat or with tongue slightly up to keep slightly more weight on rear axle of trailer. This helps with stability because it decreases mass behind the axle that is carrying most of the weight. But it also increases tongue weight so with a smallish truck is a balancing act.

If you still have problems after the WDH and reinforced trailer tongue, stronger rear springs and stiffer shocks are the next place to invest. Bags, add a leaf etc. are options good options but be careful on how you install them. Tightening U-bolts around a spring pack cause it to move unnaturally and can result in premature failure of the spring pack down the road (been there! My spring broke 120,000 miles after bag install, both broke within 5,000 miles of each other - this was on an F250). I prefer to simply switch to a heavier spring pack (you could order the ones off the HDPP if they are a direct swap in - I don't know if they are). One last option that I really like but haven't tried and don't know if they are still available, it is an extended bump stop that actually works like a spring. Does the job of an overload spring so it's only in play when you have a load on and it doesn't touch the spring pack so no issues there. This should be great for retaining unloaded ride quality and eliminating the "bob" with a load. When in contact with the axle they should help to limit sway as well. And don't forget heavier shocks!

The challenge with towing at the upper end of the ratings is that things that make the trailer more stable tend to unsettle the truck. With a higher capacity truck, this isn't an issue. You simply maximize trailer stability and don't worry about it! Yet if you distribute weight correctly on a small tow vehicle and add appropriate rear suspension they can be quite confident as tow vehicles - set up is critical and stay within your legal weight ratings.
Old 12-03-2017, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by GP-TJ
I know now my boat trailer says no WDH. Many others say the same. The WDH manufacturer can't change that. It has nothing to do with the surge brakes. The trailer tongue can't handle the change in load the WDH puts on it

My EZ Loader says no WDH. Equalizer brand WDH cannot change that statement.
If you have a crappy boat trailer with such a weak tongue, that it can't handle a WDH, it's time to get a new trailer. If you're unwilling to do that, time to go up to a 3/4 ton truck as the F150 hitch receiver can't handle more than 500 lbs SAFELY without a WDH.
Old 12-03-2017, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Up
If you have a crappy boat trailer with such a weak tongue, that it can't handle a WDH, it's time to get a new trailer. If you're unwilling to do that, time to go up to a 3/4 ton truck as the F150 hitch receiver can't handle more than 500 lbs SAFELY without a WDH.
Is it the receiver that can't handle more than 500 lbs safely without a WDH or is it the truck? If it's just the receiver this would fix that issue....

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...leid=201833000

For many reasons, (which I can get into if asked) I think Ford imposed this 500 pound limit due to potential stability issues rather than structural issues.
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Gladehound
Is it the receiver that can't handle more than 500 lbs safely without a WDH or is it the truck? If it's just the receiver this would fix that issue....

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...leid=201833000

For many reasons, (which I can get into if asked) I think Ford imposed this 500 pound limit due to potential stability issues rather than structural issues.

Well it seems Curt feels confident in allowing their Class 3 receivers to have 900 lbs of tongue weight and 6000 lbs tow rating without a WDH and their Class 4 receivers to have 1000 lbs of tongue weight and 10,000 lbs tow rating without a WDH. They rated these hitches to operate at capacity on a Ford F150.

So it "MAY" just be structural integrity as the Ford hitches are part of the rear bumper.

BUT for anyone who has towed with a 1/2 ton truck, anything over 500 lbs tongue weight, can take weight off of the front end, making for a squirrely ride.

I sure would use a WDH with anything over 500 lbs.

I guess a call or letter to Ford and Curt may answer this question.
Old 12-03-2017, 09:57 PM
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I crawled under my truck and found the sticker for the factory hitch which is 5000/500.
If that was all the sticker had to say, then that might be a Class III receiver hitch in which case you may be limited to those weights.

Usually, the Class IV receiver hitches have stickers that will say "5000/5000", then "10,500/[whatever] WDH"...

Interested in what other forum users have to say, here. Ah! I just saw Mike Up's post!


EDIT: Nevermind, I thought I was posting on Page 2 of this thread. I didn't realize there had already been over 60 replies. Man! I'm really messing up today. :-|

Last edited by Apples; 12-03-2017 at 10:14 PM.
Old 12-03-2017, 10:00 PM
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You're right. It could be either the hitch or stability.

I think Curt will only answer for their own product, not the vehicle it is going on. They'll say use the lower of the vehicle rating or their product rating. They have to say that for liability. Ford will likely say they can't give a rating for that combination because they haven't tested that. I'm betting neither will commit to anything for the combo. For me not worth calling, my two trailers that are over 5,000 / 500 work with a WD hitch and the others don't work with WD but don't need to because they are under 5,000 / 500.


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