SixShooter14

Ok, now we're getting somewhere. That 1659# is one of the numbers you want to stay below. That includes everything that's in or on your truck that wasn't there at the factory.

so any options added by you or the dealer(bedliner, bedrug/mat, bumpers, non-OEM wheels/tires, aftermarket lightbars, etc.)
the weight of driver (you)
weight of passengers (spouse, kids, friends, pets, etc.)
weight of stuff in the cab or bed. (cooler, personal electronics, clothes, etc.)
weight of the WDH (usually 80-100#-ish)

after removing everything and everyone that you will have in the truck when towing from the payload rating you get the amount of tongue weight you can have without being overloaded.

As a general rule, once you have the tongue weight, divide it by 0.13 to get the heaviest trailer you can pull using a standard WDH (without a toad).

So for an example, if you have 659# of stuff in the truck, your payload comes down to 1000#. 1000/0.13 = 7690# that's the heaviest loaded trailer that you can tow with 659# of stuff in the truck.


surpassing these ratings can cause sway, engine/trans overheat, brake failure, weakened structural components, and is generally unsafe.

So, for your sway problem, I think we've covered it in the proper set-up.

Trailer slightly nose-down
Tires aired to max psi (as listed on sidewall)
WDH properly adjusted.
Also, try to have the trailer load balanced in the left-right direction. You don't want all the weight on one side.

craneman

Looks like I got played. That's not how the dealer explained it. This won't do.

craneman

My 2007 5.4L makes this new truck look stupid. Lol

craneman

So if I have only me in the truck. 220# that's 1439/.13=11223# which is more than the max so you go with max?

I'm better throwing it all in the trailer with that theory and keeping the truck empty and light? That makes no sense. The lighter the vehicle the more it will get pushed around.

Now it's -25c out and I won't get to physical tests for a long time.

SixShooter14

Yes and no. What is the rating on your hitch? max TW with WDH?

of all the ratings, you'll want to use the lowest one. (the whole weakest link theory)

As far as putting all the weight in the trailer. With a proper setup, that shouldn't really be an issue. But I understand what you're saying. A lighter truck will be pushed around more. So it's best to try different combinations of truck-trailer weights and see if that helps. Also try adjusting the pressure in the air bags. Double check the trailer springs and tires. Make sure they aren't overloaded.

old_programmer

You also need to add in the weight of the WDH and any other accessories you added after you purchased the truck. Your WDH will likely be 80-100 lbs. If you have a bed liner that could be another 60-100 lbs depending upon what you have.

So it is 1659 - 220 - WDH weight - any other addon weight = available payload.

Assuming 100 lbs for hitch. Using the two things I know you have:

1659 - 220 - 100 = 1339

The max trailer based on payload:
1339/.13 = 10300 lbs (would be less if you have more addons)

It is likely your receiver max tongue weight is 1100 lbs it is less than 1339 so is used to determine the largest trailer you can tow. The extra 239 lbs could go in the truck as payload.

1100/.13 = 8461 lbs This is your max trailer weight for the receiver

If you can manage a 10% tongue weight then you could go up to 11K lbs rating on the receiver but 10% on the tongue is usually not realistic.

The last calculation is the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight. This must be equal to or less than the GCVWR of your truck. To calculate this you take the GCVWR and subtract the Gross Vehicle Weight and payload in the truck. What is left is the maximum trailer weight you can tow based on GCVWR.

You have to calculate all three weights to find the maximum trailer you can tow. The lowest result is the maximum weight of the trailer you can pull with your truck.

Edit: My typing got behind my thinking, as usual, and I had to correct the GCVW calculation.

old_programmer

Something just came to mind. I haven't looked in my trucks owners manual but my old 2001 Explorer had all of the calculations and related information on figuring out the towing vehicle capacity in it. It was in the towing section and was where I learned how to figure out maximum towing capacities. It is worth a look in yours and might be easier to figure out if it is front of you.

smokeywren

Yep, I didn't consider blowing up that photo to see what the hookup looked like. That junk iron hanging down below the hitch head appears to be the adjustable shank that's reducing ground clearance. If that's the problem, the hitch head/ball mount needs to be reconfigured to stick that unused part of the adjustable shank up in the air instead of hanging down and reducing ground clearance. IOW, the shank is in the lowest setting of the "rise" configuration and needs to be turned over to put in the "drop" configuration, using the holes in the adjustable shank to result in a level floor of the trailer..

untraceable

Unless that's a 2007 F250 w/ 5.4, something major must be wrong.

craneman

Lol yep that's what I said!