2010 f150 platinum 5.4
11-19-2015, 01:40 PM
#11
Tranny and/or torque converter going south because of overheating. Heat is a tranny killer.
Your Platinum trim probably has a digital tranny temp gauge. Display that gauge on your dash display, then pay attention to that gauge when towing at less than 45 MPH or when climbing grades, and NEVER allow it to go over 225°. If it gets over 220° and you cannot see the top of the grade just ahead of you, then pull over and stop, put the tranny on park, and elevate the idle RPM to over 1,200. Sit there and twiddle your thumbs until the tranny temp falls to 210°. Then at the first chance you have, change the ATF to full synthetic ATF that meets the required specs for your truck.
If you see over 220° more than once in a blue moon, then increase tranny cooling capacity by enlarging the oil-to-air (OTA) tranny cooler.
Right. fGAWR and rGAWR are not additive. You can have more weight on the front axle, for example a heavy snowplow, without being overloaded. Or you can have more weight on the rear axle, for example hitch weight, without being overloaded. But you cannot have max weight on both the front and rear axles without being overloaded.
Your Platinum trim probably has a digital tranny temp gauge. Display that gauge on your dash display, then pay attention to that gauge when towing at less than 45 MPH or when climbing grades, and NEVER allow it to go over 225°. If it gets over 220° and you cannot see the top of the grade just ahead of you, then pull over and stop, put the tranny on park, and elevate the idle RPM to over 1,200. Sit there and twiddle your thumbs until the tranny temp falls to 210°. Then at the first chance you have, change the ATF to full synthetic ATF that meets the required specs for your truck.
If you see over 220° more than once in a blue moon, then increase tranny cooling capacity by enlarging the oil-to-air (OTA) tranny cooler.
Right. fGAWR and rGAWR are not additive. You can have more weight on the front axle, for example a heavy snowplow, without being overloaded. Or you can have more weight on the rear axle, for example hitch weight, without being overloaded. But you cannot have max weight on both the front and rear axles without being overloaded.
11-19-2015, 05:01 PM
#12
Grumpy Old Man
3.73 is the axle ratio. It means the rear axle turns one revolution for every 3.73 revolutions of the driveshaft going onto the diff. For 2010 F-150s with 5.4L engine, there were three different axle ratios available from the factory. Standard was 3.15, the "long legs" version for highway crusing with lighter loads. 3.73 was the "short legs" version available as an option for those that towed or hauled heavier loads. 3.55 was a compromise.
There are three basic types of rear differentials available today.
Standard is an "open" axle. With an open axle, the differential will send power to the tire with the least resistance. So on snow or ice, one tire can spin on ice or snow or mud while the other tire does nothing.
With a limited slip diff, if one tire begins spinning, the diff will send power to the other axle. A really good driver can get by with a limited slip axle in snow or ice after he learns how to make the diff transfer some power to the spinning tire (light brake pedal and throttle at the same time).
The third type is an electronic locking diff. The driver has a switch that can be used to lock both rear axles so the tire with the best traction can get you going again.
I ordered limited slip diff on my new 1965 Corvette, so it's been around for awhile. 34 years later had it on my '99 F-250 that I drove for over 10 years dragging my 5er around the lower 48. Now my 2012 F-150 has electronic locker. All my numerous other rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles have had open axles. I know how to drive, so I can get along with a RWD vehicle in snow or ice. But I prefer the electronic locker or front wheel drive (FWD).
11-19-2015, 06:08 PM
#13
3.73 is the axle ratio. It means the rear axle turns one revolution for every 3.73 revolutions of the driveshaft going onto the diff. For 2010 F-150s with 5.4L engine, there were three different axle ratios available from the factory. Standard was 3.15, the "long legs" version for highway crusing with lighter loads. 3.73 was the "short legs" version available as an option for those that towed or hauled heavier loads. 3.55 was a compromise.
There are three basic types of rear differentials available today.
Standard is an "open" axle. With an open axle, the differential will send power to the tire with the least resistance. So on snow or ice, one tire can spin on ice or snow or mud while the other tire does nothing.
With a limited slip diff, if one tire begins spinning, the diff will send power to the other axle. A really good driver can get by with a limited slip axle in snow or ice after he learns how to make the diff transfer some power to the spinning tire (light brake pedal and throttle at the same time).
The third type is an electronic locking diff. The driver has a switch that can be used to lock both rear axles so the tire with the best traction can get you going again.
I ordered limited slip diff on my new 1965 Corvette, so it's been around for awhile. 34 years later had it on my '99 F-250 that I drove for over 10 years dragging my 5er around the lower 48. Now my 2012 F-150 has electronic locker. All my numerous other rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles have had open axles. I know how to drive, so I can get along with a RWD vehicle in snow or ice. But I prefer the electronic locker or front wheel drive (FWD).
There are three basic types of rear differentials available today.
Standard is an "open" axle. With an open axle, the differential will send power to the tire with the least resistance. So on snow or ice, one tire can spin on ice or snow or mud while the other tire does nothing.
With a limited slip diff, if one tire begins spinning, the diff will send power to the other axle. A really good driver can get by with a limited slip axle in snow or ice after he learns how to make the diff transfer some power to the spinning tire (light brake pedal and throttle at the same time).
The third type is an electronic locking diff. The driver has a switch that can be used to lock both rear axles so the tire with the best traction can get you going again.
I ordered limited slip diff on my new 1965 Corvette, so it's been around for awhile. 34 years later had it on my '99 F-250 that I drove for over 10 years dragging my 5er around the lower 48. Now my 2012 F-150 has electronic locker. All my numerous other rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles have had open axles. I know how to drive, so I can get along with a RWD vehicle in snow or ice. But I prefer the electronic locker or front wheel drive (FWD).
Last edited by jaybird3; 11-19-2015 at 06:11 PM.
11-19-2015, 08:34 PM
#14
Not enough info to answer your question.
Assuming the 3.31 axle behind your 5.4L engine, you can pull a lot more than you can haul. Your tow rating with stock-size tires is at least 8,000 pounds max trailer weight. But you cannot haul the hitch weight of a trailer that weighs anywhere near 8,000 pounds without being overloaded.
Your limiter is the actual unused payload capacity for hitch weight - not the payload capacity on your door sticker.
To determine your actual payload capacity available for hitch weight:
Load the pickup with all the people, pets, tools, jacks, and other weight that will be in the pickup when towing. Drive to a truck stop that has a certified automated truck (CAT) scale. Fill up with gas. Then weigh the wet and loaded pickup, including driver and everybody else that will be in the truck when towing.
Subtract the weight of the wet and loaded pickup from the GVWR of that pickup. (The GVWR is on the door sticker.) The answer is the unused payload capacity available for hitch weight, or approximately the maximum tongue weight of any trailer you can tow without being overloaded.
Divide that max tongue weight by 0.125 and the answer is the max GVWR of any tandem-axle trailer you want to try to tow.
Because of your heavy tires and the weight of your cap, with a normal load of people and stuff in your F-150 I suspect the max trailer GVWR you can tow without being overloaded is less than 5,000 pounds. But only the scale knows for sure, so weigh the truck and do the math.
Don't cheat yourself by omitting some of the weight that will be in the truck when towing. Campfire wood? Jack and jack base for changing a trailer tire in a muddy ditch? Toolbox full of tools?
Assuming the 3.31 axle behind your 5.4L engine, you can pull a lot more than you can haul. Your tow rating with stock-size tires is at least 8,000 pounds max trailer weight. But you cannot haul the hitch weight of a trailer that weighs anywhere near 8,000 pounds without being overloaded.
Your limiter is the actual unused payload capacity for hitch weight - not the payload capacity on your door sticker.
To determine your actual payload capacity available for hitch weight:
Load the pickup with all the people, pets, tools, jacks, and other weight that will be in the pickup when towing. Drive to a truck stop that has a certified automated truck (CAT) scale. Fill up with gas. Then weigh the wet and loaded pickup, including driver and everybody else that will be in the truck when towing.
Subtract the weight of the wet and loaded pickup from the GVWR of that pickup. (The GVWR is on the door sticker.) The answer is the unused payload capacity available for hitch weight, or approximately the maximum tongue weight of any trailer you can tow without being overloaded.
Divide that max tongue weight by 0.125 and the answer is the max GVWR of any tandem-axle trailer you want to try to tow.
Because of your heavy tires and the weight of your cap, with a normal load of people and stuff in your F-150 I suspect the max trailer GVWR you can tow without being overloaded is less than 5,000 pounds. But only the scale knows for sure, so weigh the truck and do the math.
Don't cheat yourself by omitting some of the weight that will be in the truck when towing. Campfire wood? Jack and jack base for changing a trailer tire in a muddy ditch? Toolbox full of tools?
11-20-2015, 11:12 AM
#15
Grumpy Old Man
Almost all 4x4 front diffs are open axles. So when the transfer case and front hubs are both locked, you'll have some pulling done by the front axle. But don't think that 4x4 is foolproof. You still have to know how to drive to get going with a 4x4 on ice or slick snow or mud. I've never had a 4x4 and rarely needed one.
Also I won't be be towing a 5th wheel maybe a travel trailer what should I invest in a I believe it comes with a stock transmission cooler should I upgrade.
Your truck includes a digital tranny temp gauge in the display. If that gauge never goes over 225°, then your tranny cooling capability is adequate. If you ever see over 225°, then you need more tranny cooling capability.
An important point is to not buy a cheap hitch. You want a weight-distributing hitch that lists for around $1,000 and can be bought from discount on-line sources for around $600. Reese Strait-Line trunnion, Blue Ox SwayPro, or Equal-I-Zer are all good anti-sway hitches. ProPride is the best, but it will cost you over $2,000 for a new one.
I'll be dragging around is my wife and three young boys plus 3 dog . So with the thought of a travel trailer behind that is why I ask
Realize that you cannot tow a very heavy TT plus your truck load of people and pets without overloading your F-150. So before you go shopping for a TT, determine how much your wet and loaded F-150 weighs. Load all the people and pets and anything else that will be in the truck when towing, fill up with gas, then weigh the wet and loaded truck. Subtract the weight of the truck from the GVWR of the truck to see the unused payload capacity available for hitch weight (tongue weight of a TT). Divide that max hitch weight by 0.125 (12.5%) to see the max GVWR of any TT you want to consider.
Probably the answer is less than 5,000 pounds trailer weight. You won't find many TTs available with GVWR less than 5,000 pounds. So be ready to consider pop-up camping trailers. Nice ones are available with AC and a hot-water shower with GVWR around 4,000 pounds. http://www.forestriverinc.com/produc...elID=2137#Main
I drug a pop-up camping trailer all over the USA when my kids were growing up. Our Wheel Camper trailer had no aminities except an ice box (not a reefer but a box that held some ice). We hauled a Coleman lantern and camp stove and plastic dishpan and water jugs plus a "slop jar" pottie. That was much, much better than tent camping, although not nearly as nice as our current TT that has gas heat and hot water shower and pottie and AC and a microwave and stove-top and oven and electric lights, etc.).
Last edited by smokeywren; 11-20-2015 at 11:17 AM.
11-29-2015, 07:16 AM
#16
My 19 foot airstream Bambi weighs 4000 lbs loaded. Sleeps 3 comfortably and 4 okay. Has a full bathroom and dedicated shower. ( I never use the shower except for storage. Just find campground showers offer a better experience). This comes in within my numbers. Truck has a camper shell, rack in the back, three adults, etc.
11-29-2015, 07:18 AM
#17
Also, when traveling, water tanks are empty. Except for a couple gallons fresh water for flushing and washing hands.
I also carry most gear in my trailer to keep the weight down on my truck.
I also carry most gear in my trailer to keep the weight down on my truck.
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Jason_Larsen (12-02-2015)
11-29-2015, 12:27 PM
#18
Grumpy Old Man
Originally Posted by Airstream
Today, we apply the Bambi name to all single-axle Airstream travel trailers. ... From the Airstream Sport to the single-axle versions of the Flying Cloud and International,...
http://www.airstream.com/bambi/
Airstream is a "luxury brand". The small single-axle Bambis cost anywhere from $44k to $65k.
In comparison, my tandem-axle 19' TT listed for around $16k and I bought it brand new for $13k. My Skyline Joey 19.5S has all the amminites I want in a TT, including AC, electric reefer, hot and cold running water for shower, microwave, stove and oven, flush toilet, and a real queen-size bed with Serta EuroTop mattress. The equivalent Airstream between 21' and 22' total length is the 22FB, which has GVWR of 4,500. My Joey with the same length has GVWR of 5,600.
So yeah, my tandem-axle Joey is a lot heavier than the single axle Airstream of the same length. But my Joey with the same equipment cost less than one third as much as the Airstream. The new Airstream Sport Travel Trailer 22FB sells for around $49, 000. For more information, check out http://www.airstream.com/.
I would love to have a tandem-axle Airstream with the same options my Joey has, but I can't afford one.
Last edited by smokeywren; 11-29-2015 at 03:59 PM.
11-29-2015, 01:43 PM
#19
There was a design flaw in the one way clutch that caused very hard down shifts and up shifts. It literally caused the truck to lurch when coming to a stop. I had numerous software updates and solenoid replacements. Nothing helped. A Ford Engineer was sent to my dealership to correct the problem but as I said, nothing was corrected even after the solenoid replacements.
In 2011 the NEW one way clutch was added along with a newer electronic updates. The 2011 - 2014 transmission is not the same as the 2009 and 2010 despite having the same name and gear ratios.
I had chassis problems with this truck added to the continuous transmission issues. My dealer was sympathetic and gave me a great deal and trade in offer, to get me into the 2012 truck I have now. The 2012 is my favorite truck, out of all of my trucks and SUVs, by far.
In 2011 the NEW one way clutch was added along with a newer electronic updates. The 2011 - 2014 transmission is not the same as the 2009 and 2010 despite having the same name and gear ratios.
Six-Speed Automatic Transmission
Every engine for 2011 will be paired with the F-150’s existing 6R80 six-speed automatic transmission, but Ford has improved the gearbox as well, with features inherited from the 2011 F-Series Super Duty HD pickups.
Progressive Range Select allows a driver to reduce the number of available gears so it’s easier to tow up a grade and hold a specific top gear without worrying about the truck upshifting and getting bogged down in a higher gear.
There’s also a manual shift function, which lets a driver operate the truck like it had a manual transmission. The driver can shift whenever needed, as long as it doesn’t over-rev the engine.
The transmission also receives new ratios so it can operate with a lower final drive ratio for improved highway mileage – we’re waiting for the final ratios from Ford and word about rear axle changes – tow/haul mode has been re-calibrated for improved grade-shifting during descents and there’s also a new one-way clutch for smoother 1-2 and 2-1 shifts between the first two cogs.
Every engine for 2011 will be paired with the F-150’s existing 6R80 six-speed automatic transmission, but Ford has improved the gearbox as well, with features inherited from the 2011 F-Series Super Duty HD pickups.
Progressive Range Select allows a driver to reduce the number of available gears so it’s easier to tow up a grade and hold a specific top gear without worrying about the truck upshifting and getting bogged down in a higher gear.
There’s also a manual shift function, which lets a driver operate the truck like it had a manual transmission. The driver can shift whenever needed, as long as it doesn’t over-rev the engine.
The transmission also receives new ratios so it can operate with a lower final drive ratio for improved highway mileage – we’re waiting for the final ratios from Ford and word about rear axle changes – tow/haul mode has been re-calibrated for improved grade-shifting during descents and there’s also a new one-way clutch for smoother 1-2 and 2-1 shifts between the first two cogs.
12-01-2015, 06:28 AM
#20
Smokey
I appreciate and respect your advice. Of which I have used to my benefit. Thanks. But your assumption about my TT is incorrect.
As for your travel trailer, It sounds like you got exactly what you wanted.
As for me, I have a 8 year old truck and chose a used airstream. Condition was like new as the previous owner had taken exceptional care. So my truck trailer combination is probably a combined value of less than your truck and trailer combo.
Based on the price I've been seeing on averagely equipped new F150's. My combo has a combined cost of less than the new truck. All because I bought used.
So, my point is, consider used equipment. Especially in travel trailers. The price does drop quickly. Craigslist is your friend.
I appreciate and respect your advice. Of which I have used to my benefit. Thanks. But your assumption about my TT is incorrect.
As for your travel trailer, It sounds like you got exactly what you wanted.
As for me, I have a 8 year old truck and chose a used airstream. Condition was like new as the previous owner had taken exceptional care. So my truck trailer combination is probably a combined value of less than your truck and trailer combo.
Based on the price I've been seeing on averagely equipped new F150's. My combo has a combined cost of less than the new truck. All because I bought used.
So, my point is, consider used equipment. Especially in travel trailers. The price does drop quickly. Craigslist is your friend.