EcoBeast11

Was searching for a while and couldnt find anything. Im looking to by a 7-8' x 18' x 6' v nose cargo trailer. I have the 2011 Eco FX4. came with 3.73 and brake controller options already. sSo i should be able to handle this with a full load in the trailer as well. Plans for it are 2 four wheelers and custom built interior kitchen at the V and a crack down king bed in the back. Anyone have the simular idea or setup already with pictures that can post up? or just a 18' v nose in general?

Also do you run a weight distribution hitch on yours?

Scarlet

I have a '12 Polaris Ranger HD. I added a few accessories including the Pro Steel cab, and Rigid Dually spot lights mounted on the roof. I couldn't find an enclosed trailer tall enough for what I wanted in the size I was looking for. I ended up having it custom built. It's a '13 Homesteader Challenger. It's a 7'x14' V-nose, and tandem axle. It's overall length is 18' and overall height is about 9'10". I needed a 7' tall opening, and all the trailers in this size were only 6' tall or so. In hind sight I wish I had went with an 8' wide trailer. As you can see in the pics at 7' wide it's a tight squeeze. I have to take the door off of the Ranger so I can get out of it once it's in the trailer. My loaded weight with the Ranger is about 3,500-3,600 lbs. or so. I added a few accessories to the trailer including a powered roof vent, E-track, D-rings in the floor, and stabilizer jacks. Final price was around 5,600.00. No weight dist. hitch for me. It tows great. I'll give the specs on the stock trailer, and then what mine are.


Door opening height: Stock - 6', Mine - 7'.
Interior height: Stock - 6'8", Mine - 7'8".
Interior length is the same: 14'5". (The V-nose adds about another 16"-18", but at the "V" angle)
Overall height: Stock - 8'10", Mine - 9'10".
Overall width is the same: 8'6".
GVWR- 7,000 lbs.
My curb weigth - 2,020 lbs., Payload - 4,980 lbs..

EcoBeast11

Thanx for the input. Looks good on the back of the truck. And I'm glad you got a picture with your ATV in there ..... made me decide to go with a 8' wide. I just got done looking at the homesteader patriot 816PT.

Wannafbody

The EB will pull that trailer easily, no WDH needed.

smokeywren

You don't necessarily need the WDH for the weight distribution, although it will make a much more stable rig. But you definitely need it for the sway control. You won't realize you need sway control until it's too late. With just exactly the right combination of hitch weight, wind direction and wind speed, maybe some gusting wind and/or bumps in the road, then meeting an 18-wheeler box truck barreling down the highway at 70 MPH, you can be sucked into an uncontrollable sway with no warning. And that uncontrollable sway often results in your rig being upside down in the median or in the oncoming lane.

The cheap friction-type sway control bars you can add without a WD hitch are better than no sway control at all, but not much better. Even the cheap WD hitches such as the Reese Pro Series are not good enough for me. You need the engineered and built-in sway control of a Reese Strait-Line or Equal-I-Zer WD hitch. Those list for around $1,000 and can be bought on-line for less than $600. I wouldn't leave home without my Strait-Line hitch on my cargo trailer or my ProPride hitch on my TT. I've seen too many trailers upside down in the median or barrow ditch to not tow with adequate WD hitch with sway control.

Wannafbody

I've towed a 7x12 3,000 pound trailer for 17 years without a WDH. It isn't needed. The only time I've ever had an issue was on an ice covered road.

I've towed a 8x20 6,000 pound trailer without a WDH, again without issue. The key is placing the weight over the axles. If all or most of your weight is in front of the axles then a WDH is probably needed.

RedOne

Used this one (8.5' x 20' v nose with 5200# axles) for a short time while moving my son to Portland, OR. Loaded it down with so much stuff the rear axle weight on my truck was WAY over the 4050 allowed. Had to use my dads 3500 Cummins for the trip. Be careful you don't put too much in the front as the tongue weight can climb fast.

Wannafbody

You need to look at the trailer axle rating as well. They can be 3000#, 3500# and 5000# rating per axle. If you are putting a kitchen in the front that will probably increase the tongue weight to a point where you'd need the WDH, I missed that bit of info the first time.