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10500 lbs trailer. Am I kidding myself?

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Old 07-05-2016, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 16F150 Plat
I'm assuming my limiter will be TW. According to my door sticker I have approx 1390 lbs of capacity, but the hitch is only rated at 1250 lbs. Is that correct?...I wasn't aware that the door sticker included tounge weight.
It sounds like you're saying that the door sticker shows 1,390# payload capacity. According to Ford's RV & Trailer Towing Guide factory tow guide, your max conventional trailer tounge weight is 1,220#. If you load your receiver to capacity, you'll have 170# remaining for equipment and bodies. That aftermarket bed liner better not weigh a lot

Originally Posted by 16F150 Plat
It's a 2016 Platinum, my current tow vehicle is a 350 dually but the insurance and yearly maintenance is getting out of hand.
Insurance premiums, sir, are the precise reason I'm sweating my situation with a 1/2-ton.
Old 07-05-2016, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 16F150 Plat

As mentioned I can put the vast majority of the weight at the very rear of the trailer (3500 lbs in the rear 3.5 feet), .
That could cause you some serious tail wagging the dog issues. You'd better beef up the sway control.
Old 07-05-2016, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by timtrace
It sounds like you're saying that the door sticker shows 1,390# payload capacity. According to Ford's RV & Trailer Towing Guide factory tow guide, your max conventional trailer tounge weight is 1,220#. If you load your receiver to capacity, you'll have 170# remaining for equipment and bodies. That aftermarket bed liner better not weigh a lot



Insurance premiums, sir, are the precise reason I'm sweating my situation with a 1/2-ton.
No bedliner and no moonroof. The truck would just be me and a lunch bag.

It would easily pay for a nice trip down south every winter for me and the mrs.

Last edited by 16F150 Plat; 07-05-2016 at 03:31 PM.
Old 07-05-2016, 03:43 PM
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As far as brakes (mentioned above) the trailer brakes must be functional and rated to stop the trailer. The F150 brakes stop the truck.

A two axle trailer with a 10,000lb gross rating? That means each axle must be capable of about 5,000 lb. First post says 9,500 to 10,000 lb load. So a trailer rated for ? 13,000 lb gross ?
Old 07-05-2016, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Feathermerchant
As far as brakes (mentioned above) the trailer brakes must be functional and rated to stop the trailer. The F150 brakes stop the truck.

A two axle trailer with a 10,000lb gross rating? That means each axle must be capable of about 5,000 lb. First post says 9,500 to 10,000 lb load. So a trailer rated for ? 13,000 lb gross ?
It has 6000 lbs axles with beefier brakes and tires. The trailer is overbuild and can definitely handle the load. Doubled up on cross members on the frame, and 12" studs riveted.

Last edited by 16F150 Plat; 07-05-2016 at 03:52 PM.
Old 07-05-2016, 04:47 PM
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If you have DOT numbers on your truck, make sure you are within the manufacturers specs. Otherwise, use a F250/350.
Old 07-05-2016, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 16F150 Plat
I plan on keeping everything legal. I'm assuming my limiter will be TW. According to my door sticker I have approx 1390 lbs of capacity, but the hitch is only rated at 1250 lbs. Is that correct?
As stated below, NO, that is not correct. 1,220. Lie down and look up a the hitch and it tells you. And that is with a WDH. 500 without it.

Here's the reality. You are proposing to tow over capacity. If you have an accident, and your insurance company determines you intentionally towed over capacity, you run the risk of financial ruin - they pay off whoever you injure and then sue you for the payoff.

With a business involved, you put it at risk also.
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Old 07-05-2016, 05:16 PM
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Even if you do put an a heavy duty or reinforced hitch, it still does not work. Think of you truck as a see-saw. If you place more than 500 on the tounge. Then the front end of the truck will lift. Just imagine doubling the 500 lbs as recommended without a WDH. Talk about under steering and lack of braking, the front will lift.
As someone mentioned and I totally forgot. If you have a DOT # on your truck and a posted GVW on the side ( legal crap for commercial trucks) don't ever go beyond that number. DOT cops are pretty strict and they watch commercial weights strictly and the fines are very steep.
Old 07-05-2016, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 16F150 Plat
Are there really no hitch replacements for the 2015+ with higher capacity?

I can't find a simple bolt-on replacement receiver with Class V specs. But if you can find a good welding/fabrication shop, then DrawTite makes a Class V receiver that will probably do the job. It requires welding brackets onto the frame of the pickup, then welding the receiver onto those brackets.
http://www.carid.com/draw-tite/draw-...s-3725827.html


Note that price is probably just for the frame and receiver. The brackets are another $100 or so.


My local farmers' blacksmith (welding/fabrication) shop can do the job.


R&R is complicated by the way the rear bumper is made. The factory receiver is part of the rear bumper. But a good fabrication shop should be able to work around that problem..
Old 07-05-2016, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricktwuhk
As stated below, NO, that is not correct. 1,220. Lie down and look up a the hitch and it tells you. And that is with a WDH. 500 without it.

Here's the reality. You are proposing to tow over capacity. If you have an accident, and your insurance company determines you intentionally towed over capacity, you run the risk of financial ruin - they pay off whoever you injure and then sue you for the payoff.

With a business involved, you put it at risk also.
So without a WDH your TW cant exceed 500 lbs???

Last edited by 16F150 Plat; 07-05-2016 at 05:45 PM.


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