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10500 lbs trailer. Am I kidding myself?

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Old 07-03-2016, 01:55 PM
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Default 10500 lbs trailer. Am I kidding myself?

I've got a 2016 F150 Screw with 3.5 and 3.55 gears with Max tow.

I work in the trades and need to tow a trailer (14 foot V-nose, 17 overall, 7 Feet high) with a load of 9500 to 10500 lbs load.

85-90% of the payload will be behind or over the axles. If I keep my tongue weight at or bellow rated is it doable?

The majority of my driving will be non-highway and approx 25 miles each way 3 days a week. Not many hills.

I have a hellwig sway bar and Firestone air bags installed.

Trailer is still being built and haven't tested it yet. If it could work I could get rid of my current tow vehicle, and save me quite a lot of money. With our current economy would go a long way.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Last edited by 16F150 Plat; 07-03-2016 at 02:11 PM.
Old 07-03-2016, 04:03 PM
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Only 25 miles each way? I'd do it. Without a WDH. I bet you'd be fine if you got one of those. Everyone else is gonna tells you to get a WDH and a F250 or bigger haha

Last edited by JJM; 07-03-2016 at 04:05 PM.
Old 07-03-2016, 04:15 PM
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Did I read that right, 9500 to 10,500 for the load and then another 2,000 for the trailer? So your saying 12,000 lbs total. Doable if it's only a few times a year. If your talking daily or weekly, No.
Old 07-03-2016, 04:59 PM
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You're right close to the limit. It'll do it, but for something I did on a regular basis this is where you can justify an F-250 diesel. For a recreational user who only tows that much a few times a year I'd say go for it. But in the long run a diesel will consume a LOT less fuel towing that much weight and you'll get a lot longer life out of the vehicle.
Old 07-03-2016, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 16F150 Plat
I've got a 2016 F150 Screw with 3.5 and 3.55 gears with Max tow. I work in the trades and need to tow a trailer (14 foot V-nose, 17 overall, 7 Feet high) with a load of 9500 to 10500 lbs load. 85-90% of the payload will be behind or over the axles. If I keep my tongue weight at or bellow rated is it doable? The majority of my driving will be non-highway and approx 25 miles each way 3 days a week. Not many hills. I have a hellwig sway bar and Firestone air bags installed. Trailer is still being built and haven't tested it yet. If it could work I could get rid of my current tow vehicle, and save me quite a lot of money. With our current economy would go a long way. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
http://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/...e_r3_Nov12.pdf

With Max Tow and 3.55 gears, assuming your truck is also equipped with the 3.5L GTDI V6 Ecoboost, 4x2 driveline, and 157" wheelbase, and further assuming you don't exceed any of the stickered weight ratings, you can fit a weight-distributing hitch to legally and insurably pull an 11,900# conventional trailer with 1,220# tongue weight.

FWIW, the collective experience here says it may be difficult to reach GVWR at 10-15% tongue weight while complying with all of the manufacturer's weight ratings, particularly the stickered payload rating. I'm dealing with this exact problem right now and it's making me crazy.

Doing this for work? Like your truck and its warranty? Tow within the manufacturer's ratings. You don't want to lose control in a panic maneuver (sway or brake) and plow into a loaded minivan on its way to a soccer game, and face claims for injuries, suffering, death and property damage..... or have to pay out of pocket for a replacement rear end because you crunched the ring gear with too much axle weight.

Last edited by timtrace; 07-03-2016 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Lots of little edits for clarity.
Old 07-03-2016, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by timtrace

http://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/...e_r3_Nov12.pdf

With Max Tow and 3.55 gears, assuming your truck is also equipped with the 3.5L GTDI V6 Ecoboost, 4x2 driveline, and 157" wheelbase, and further assuming you don't exceed the stickered payload and axle weight ratings, you can fit a weight-distributing hitch and legally pull an 11,900# trailer with 1,220# tongue weight.

FWIW, the collective experience here says it may be very difficult to reach GVWR and remain at or under the stickered weight ratings. I'm dealing with this exact problem right now and it's making me crazy.

Doing this for work? Like your truck and its warranty? Tow within the manufacturer's ratings. You don't want to lose control in a panic maneuver (sway or brake) and plow into a loaded minivan on its way to a soccer game, and face insurance claims for injuries, suffering and property damage..... or have to pay out of pocket for a replacement rear end because you crunched the ring gear with too much axle weight.
Or kill someone...
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Old 07-03-2016, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricktwuhk
Or kill someone...
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Old 07-03-2016, 05:21 PM
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I pull a 36' TT with the exact same setup sway bar and Firestone Air bags. Put 38lbs in bags and truck is levelled to original stance. 3.5EB 157" Wheelbase 2016 Lariat. TT loaded is 9100lbs and tong weight is 926lbs. No prob at all (keep in mind I do Highways mostly) but when in town this truck is a beast also. I have stopped at a truck highway scale and overall combine weight is 15,536lbs. I am well within the 17,000lbs and the 1,560lbs on door sticker. Would a 250 Diesel be ideal yes of course, but Eco is for sure capable for the next 100k miles in my opinion...

Last edited by RkF150_PM; 07-03-2016 at 05:27 PM.
Old 07-03-2016, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RkF150_PM
I pull a 36' TT with the exact same setup sway bar and Firestone Air bags. Put 38lbs in bags and truck is levelled to original stance. 3.5EB 157" Wheelbase 2016 Lariat. TT loaded is 9100lbs and tong weight is 926lbs. No prob at all (keep in mind I do Highways mostly) but when in town this truck is a beast also. I have stopped at a truck highway scale and overall combine weight is 15,536lbs. I am well within the 17,000lbs and the 1,560lbs on door sticker. Would a 250 Diesel be ideal yes of course, but Eco is for sure capable for the next 100k miles in my opinion...
At the risk of hijacking the OP's topic .... assuming you're using a WDH, I find it hard to believe anyone capable of reading a door sticker and a towing guide would've recommended an F-250 for your circumstance. It seems to me like you've got a reasonable half-ton TV+TT combination.

Last edited by timtrace; 07-03-2016 at 06:40 PM.
Old 07-03-2016, 07:54 PM
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You may be able to pull it, but will you be able to stop it! If all else falls into place, and thats a tricky thing to get done right, I would suggest upgrading the brakes on the truck to be able to slow that much weight down.


Call me skeptical

Assuming its a 4x2 with the 6.5' bed, max trailer is 11,900#, which @ 13% TW is 1547# on the tongue. GCWR is 17,100# which suggests the trucks fully loaded weight with the trailer connected is 5200#. Ain't gonna fly with that much trailer weight. My 2014 Screw 3.5 is over 5900 with just me and a half tank of gas in it, I can't imagine the 2016 being much lighter with a full tank of gas. Even at the claimed 700# lighter, that is still over 5200#.

Only way to know for sure is to weigh the truck with everything you know will be in it before you hook up a trailer to it, with a full tank of gas. Just keep in mind the most critical weight is the axle weight, don't exceed it, and you will be fine. Don't forget to add passengers weight in the equation. In any case, upgrade the brakes if you plan to tow heavy, the OE brakes are...adequate, but there are better ones out there.

I have a 28' travel trailer that grosses at 7600#, running weight is somewhere around 6100#, and I have about 760# on the tongue. My truck has a 1470# payload, and I thought it was OK, until I weighed it with the family in the truck and found I was 300 over gross and 400 over axle. So weigh it to know before you tow.
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