TunaSlayer

Ok. This is going to take some time. Finished the reverse lights today and have a ton of pics I took for a how-to.

I bought these lights from Quadratec (guess it's not just a Jeep thing) for $100. I know you can buy the same 'type' of lights for $20 at Autozone, but I've had bad experiences with cheap crap from them. Went with KC 2"x6" lights. They like to pretend it has everything you need, which I guess technically it does if you like using cheap crimps, etc. I used some of their wiring and the relay. They sell them with an optional switch for like $20 but it's big and lame looking. I bought switches from Radioshack that match factory pretty well and are descrete. $3 a pop, can't beat that.

I chose to mount the lights under the hitch. I marked the position for each light for maximum spread. I used a metal punch to make drilling metal easier, so the bit doesn't walk. A good tip, start small and keep moving up in bit sizes, and use bits for metal, not wood.





Make sure you mount them close enough to the ends of the hitch, otherwise tightening the nut will be a bitch. I lined the lights up so they would be perfectly in line with each other. I used the hitch receiver as a guide. Yeah I'm **** like that.

TunaSlayer

I chose to ground the lights each on a bolt through the hitch right next to each light. The bolt isn't really a supporting bolt so it didn't take much to get it off

You should mount the relay within 6' of the lights. I chose to mount it up under the bed right at the rear of the truck. They only supply you with self tapping screws...no thanks. I found a predrilled hole and mounted with there with a small bolt. The relay has five terminals:
12v in power supply
ground
reverse wire
switch
and 12v out to the lights

I bolted the ground wire to the bolt I used to mount the relay. The pic is facing the rear.





The red wire in the relay goes to the lights. It doesn't split so you have to splice. They give you crimps but they're the cheap kind I hate. I used my own 3way connectors and heat wrapped everyone to protect it from the elements a little better. The relay is on the driver's side, so I ran the red power to the passenger side light and spliced the driver's side light inline. I followed the factory wiring that ran under the body from driver's to passenger's side in the rear.
Up one side

down the other

Crap crimp Vs. mine

Both 12v red power wires for each lights to the relay all connected

TunaSlayer

Next I ran the reverse wire (white) up past the relay and behind the tail light driver's side. FYI, the black/purple wire is the wire you want, that's your power, and for this case, the turn-on wire. There's not much wire to work with, so I stripped a small section of the insulation inline on the factory reverse wire, then ran the white KC reverse lead through it, wrapped it so it was sturdy, soldered it, then used marine liquid electrical tape. This stuff is awesome. I have it on the bilges on my boat and one was completely submerged still pumping with a "repaired at sea" wire I used this stuff on. It's not pretty but no one will ever see it anyways.

TunaSlayer

Since I was putting in my own switch, not theirs, I need to rig up my own connection from the relay switch lead to the switch in the cab. I used 16ga wire and crimped a female connector on one end into the relay. I forgot to mention, but all the wiring was wrapped in wire loom. I measured my 16ga wire out next to the green wire from the kit, which is the 12v power in to the relay. I zip tied both together since they were both going to be run up front into the cab. I basically layed out both under the driver's side up to the front, then wire loomed them and zip tied the loom to the factory wiring running along the frame.

TunaSlayer

I found the big rubber gromet in the fire wall by the brake pedal and pushed it out from the cab side. Picked it up and drilled a hole in the middle. I used a wire snake and went from the cab, through the hole, and down to the ground where I tied to two wires I had run down the frame to it, then pulled the snake back through the firewall. PRESTO, wires are in cab now.

TunaSlayer

I thought long and hard about where to mount the switches. I chose the plastic piece that covers underneath the steering wheel. I needed enough room behind it for the switches and wiring. If you look you'll see two empty spaces in the metal brace, one on each side.

I wanted to drill my holes right in those spots. I scratched the positions I wanted on the back of the plastic trim piece


Brought the plastic trim piece into the shop to drill. These are my switches. I installed two, one of the reverse lights so I can toggle them on even when I'm not in reverse, and another for the lights I'm mounting in front next week.




Thought I'd show you my little tool I made to hold two wires you are soldering together. It's just 120v solid core with two alligator clips soldered onto the ends.

TunaSlayer

I chose to run the power off the headunit wiring harness. I've done this before and know it's safe. I like avoiding a wiring clusterfunk under the hood. I needed to splice into the 12v power, ground for the switch, and another 3way for power for the switch



Green relay power into the headunit power

All of them

Female connectors for the switch. The top prong is your 12v power, middle the load, or the thing you want to switch on/off, and the bottom is ground.

TunaSlayer

Switch all done. Tucked the wires behind the carpet.



SUCCESS! Did I mention it was raining and blowing 50mph for half this? Yeah, sucks. I'll get better pics tomorrow.

nacskins

One word. Jealous!

gary1892

did you put a separate switch for each light???


And did you know that if you have a 7 way plug on the back that it has a reverse light wire in the plug... and all you have to do is plug a relay into the fuse panel .........