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Nice build. It is good to see there are some dedicated vendors who treat people well for the F-150 market.
Are you still happy with the AT tires?
Has the ride quality maintained over time?
I currently have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that is mildly built. I saw the photos early in the thread with quite a few Taco's. With mine being such a little truck, with an I4 motor, once you add a lift, it gets pretty stiff as far as ride quality goes.
Again, nice build.
Thank you very much, and yes i have been blessed to work with some great companies and even made a few friends along the way. I am still VERY happy with the AT II's and the ride quality has been great. They do awesome on road no matter the weather and even do great in the dunes or the mud off-road. My next set will be a set of Toyo R/T's in 35" simply because i would like a more aggressive looking tire. But that won't be for a long time as i still have plenty of tire left with the ones i currently have on.
It has been a long time coming but let me start off by saying... ITS WORTH IT!
As always here is the run down on the install and the overall review will be posted at the end once i get done with the downpipes install guide.
Tools:
Screwdriver
Deep socket 3/8
Tips:
Let Full Race know EXACTLY what year your truck is and for those of us who are early 2011, make sure you let them know that in advance. It will help in making sure you get the right pipe for your IAT sensors.
Time: 30 minutes
Step 1: Unclip the OEM air box and loosen the first clamp on the way down to the engine. Also remove the air sensor from the pipe. (THIS IS THE PART YOU NEED TO TAKE NOTE OF WHAT STYLE IAT SENSOR YOUR HAVE AND LET FULL RACE KNOW) Some look like mine in the picture and others are simply a small circular hole.
Another shot of what you need to look for.
Step 2: Remove OEM Filter, and place in blocking plate for OEM wheel well hole (optional)
Step 3: For those of us who have an early 2011, remove this "thing" for lack of a better term...
Step 4: Undo the rest of the clamps on the Y and then remove the OEM noise attenuators.
Step 5:
This is only for people who are going to continue on and do a thermostat swap. I would highly recommend placing a cover over the pipes as there is a possibility of knocking things into it when you are trying to open up the thermostat. I will post the steps to continue on with a thermostat swap in the next post. For right now though lets focus on the intake
Step 6: Add couplers with clamps already in position to the drivers side turbo first. Tighten down ONLY the wider side that attaches to the plastic pipe. This is the only clamp you should tighten down until you have everything in position.
Step 7: Place new Full Race pipe in drivers side turbo in the direction you see below. DO NOT TIGHTEN DOWN CLAMPS YET!
Step 8: Re-install the OEM IAT sensor, but all you need for now is just the part that attaches to the pipe. You can separate the plug by pulling the red tab underneath it away from the pipe. Do this now so you don't end up with an awkward angle that you have to try and tighten.
Step 9: Now mock up the passenger side turbo, and wait to tighten down the clamps until you install the air box so this way you can move it around as needed.
Step 10: Pre fit the two filters through the Full Race Intake box with the clamps already around the rubber area on the OUTSIDE of the air box.
Step 11: Place Full Race intake box in OEM location using existing holes and begin to arrange the pipes leading into the filters so it eventually looks like this.
Step 12: Once you get it to where everything fits. NOW you can go back and tighten everything down. Also don't forget about that little hose that will now be going into the drivers side turbo pipe, its an easy one to forget.
Please read steps 1-5 on my previous posts from the Full Race Intake Install in order to get to the first step of this install. This will guide you through getting rid of the intake so you have enough room to access the thermostat.
Tools:
8mm socket
Tips: Make sure you buy at least one gallon of Motorcraft Orange Coolant
Time: 30 min
Step 1: Remove OEM intake
Step 2: Tape off everything so you don't drop something in the intake pipes or allow a bunch of fluid to get in there.
Step 3: Here is my best attempt at "vectoring" you in to where the thermostat is on our trucks. The thermostat is in line with the radiator hose on the driver side, where it goes into the engine. There are two 8mm bolts to undo.
Step 4: Make sure when you undo the bolts the truck has been cold for a while otherwise you will burn the crap out of your hand like i did Be prepared to loose a lot of coolant and possibly catch some in a big ole cup.
Step 5: Once you have the bolts off, reach into the pipe and remove the OEM thermostat and the gasket it has around it. Take note of how the gasket looks when you pull out the OEM one and reuse it on the new one.
Step 6: Put the new thermostat in the same location the OEM one came from and then bolt everything back up.
Step 7: Mix coolant using the 50/50 mix that it says on the bottle and start refiling your coolant.
Once you have filled it up to the cold start line, you can now start your truck and let it run until the fan kicks on. If you need help making that happen you can turn the heat on high with the truck running.
After this is done you are now good to go. Make sure you keep some extra coolant in your truck for the next few days and check it at least one time per day especially after a long drive. Monitor the coolant level for the next week of so and add some on the spot as needed until it is actually back up to the point where it is full.
The truck had a very busy weekend. On Saturday it went up 6855 ft to the top of Calispell peak using barely maintained switchback jeep trails, and then back down lol Today, we took it out to Moses Lake dunes to try and shake loose the new parts and test out the new tunes. It performed flawlessly in the dunes and all the new parts made a HUGE difference in the sand. I was able to push the truck much faster over the sand and had no trouble picking any route i wanted and taking it.
You can see how small the trails were in this picture. Lets just say the truck got some free pin striping this weekend.
Here is the view from the basin and the peak we were about to climb was just off to the left
On an unrelated note i got suckered into buying this Yeti beverage chiller today and was glad to find out that a Full Race Motorsports sticker fits perfectly around it
man their (FULL RACE) detail on even there pipes is amazing!! Also, if your lookin into covers for your diffs and what not the mag hytec stuff is amazng!!
man their (FULL RACE) detail on even there pipes is amazing!! Also, if your lookin into covers for your diffs and what not the mag hytec stuff is amazng!!
Does theirs also have a sight glass and magnetic drain plug?
05-15-2015, 11:14 PM
Be prepared to loose a lot of coolant and possibly catch some in a big ole cup.
