Kommander

I should not have read this. I am happy for you but my 0% Visa might be about to take a hit. I started having heart palpitations and cold sweats just looking at your dyno #'s. I need this for my '14 5.0. I need it badly.

jmeo

iTrader: (1)

You can do it

engineermike

Got my updated cal with the throttle remapped today and flashed it. I'll drive it tomorrow...can't wait!

jmeo

iTrader: (1)

Sweet mine comes next week I'm told.
Keep us updated please

Kommander

OMG I hate you both. Lol. Hey, can a shade tree mechanic install this? I mean, I worked on cars for a few years so I am probably a little more than a Shade tree mechanic but there aren’t like any special tools I will need, no machining to fit, or anything too high tech? What was the hardest part of the install, assuming you did your own install of course. I have $11k on my credit card and I am paying it down as fast as I can so I can do this. I am down to $7k as of last night. Not happening fast enough lol.

Is this going to reduce the engine life? My guess is the factory warranty is probably shot as well?

jmeo

iTrader: (1)

So, I will tell you there is a little butt-hole puckering when it comes to the install but in my opinion it is not due to the tools needed or machining. If you have a good assortment of allen head sockets and a good tool kit you will be fine. The only thing I can think of off hand that most people don't have is a heat gun. You will need this for the heater hose portion of the install and one can be purchased for $30 ish dollars at Harbor Freight or the like. There is no machining required. For me the hardest part was pressing a fitting into the evap line that comes from the gas tank which is located at the rear of the motor but it will come with the pieces needed to do it. That and the fact that everything you do is lying on your stomach over the radiator support lol.

The thing most people will have issues with is getting confused as to what part they are calling out in the directions, IE the name of the part but usually you can figure it out via the pictures in the instructions. I will tell you this, Whipple is there to help and if you call they will guide you through your issue

Do yourself a favor and read this manual I have provided to get any tools and all the required fluids, lubricants and misc things you'll need. When you get your kit, lay everything out and and confirm your parts list is accurate and get familiar with the pats. This will definitely help when a step calls out certain hardware or part and you will be more familiar with what they are talking about.

I went ahead and ordered all the required tools and fluids, etc from Amazon and had everything ready to go before the kit arrived. Well, I'm **** and thats what I did lol.

Engine life..... Well, no. If you take care of what you have and use it appropriately you will not have to worry about this. Your engine and probably drivetrain warranty is definitely over. I can tell you this, Ive had 3 Whipple's over the past 5 years and have NEVER once had a hiccup or a fart, neither did the car


Here is a link to my PDF install manual. If for some reason it doesn't work just PM me and I will email it to you.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...int=file%2cpdf

Jaime

engineermike

I can verify everything in the above post is spot on. It's one of the easiest kits I've ever installed because you don't have to repin in connectors, grind the block, punch a hole in he oil pan, or drop the fuel tank. It took me about a day and a half start to finish. If I did another one it would be less than a day because I "wasted" a lot of time trying to find things or figure out exactly how things went. For instance, I probably lost 15 minutes trying to find the radiator drain.

Jmeo, have you considered changing your oil viscosity? I noticed that ford recommends 5w20 for our trucks, but 5w30 for all the ecoboosts and 5w50 for the mustang gt350, gt500, track pack, and boss. I'm definitely going to switch but I'm torn between Mobil 1 5w30 and pennzoil ultra platinum 0w40.

jmeo

iTrader: (1)

I have never even thought about it although I did switch to Motorcraft full synthetic 5w20 when I did the install. I have since become a Amsoil dealer and I will switch to this when I do my next oil change but why would we consider switching the weight of the oil? I also have a Whipple supercharged 2015 Mustang GT running 5w20 so if I should switch I would like to know.

Jaime

engineermike

The heavier weight oils should have better load carrying capability. If you look across the industry, you'll find that the vast majority of high performance and boosted cars are using oils heavier than 20 weight. Z06 and ecoboost calls for 5w30, hellcats get 0w40, and as I said gt500 got 5w50. This can't be coincidence. The industry switch to 20 was driven by fuel economy, which was even admitted by ford in the original tsb that recommended the switch.

jmeo

iTrader: (1)

But.... Those cars are from the factory with that weight so would switching to 30w just because I added a blower be accurate?

I'd be a little nervous switching to 0 cold weight but switching to 30 hot weight shouldn't be a big deal. Do you recommend I switch both Whoppled mustang and f150 to 5w30 or something different?