VTX1800N1

I replaced mine today. It took me 20 minutes. I found it impossible to access the lower bolt from under the truck; likely due to my truck being a 4x4. Instead I removed the air intake and positioned the upper bolt so that it was pointing directly to the driver side of the truck. This positioned the lower bolt so that it was pointing directly forward. With an extension and 10mm socket, I was easily able to get the lower bolt out:







However, I would recommend first positioning the upper bolt straight up and using an impact to loosen it. The impact broke it free, where I was putting so much force on it with a ratchet that I worried about bending the upper shaft. You can easily turn the wheel to get the bolts back to the removal position after you loosen the upper bolt.

I removed the brake booster vacuum hose to get some room and used a small hammer to tap the upper pinch clamp off the upper shaft. Remember to completely remove the bolts first. I then used a 16" 3/8 drive extension and hammer to tap the lower pinch clamp off the steering gear. With the shaft in the removal position with the lower bolt straight forward, I was able to get the extension on one ear of the shaft U-joint and tap it up and off the steering gear.

The U-joints of the old shaft did not seem to bind at all, but I had been soaking them for days with a penetrating lubrication oil made for garage doors. The slip fitting of the shaft was very rough though.

I applied anti seize to the contact points of the new shaft and slipped the lower pinch clamp onto the steering gear. I used the 16" extension and two smaller extensions to reach the center 4 way of the lower U-joint and gently tapped it down onto the steering gear. I fully installed the lower bolt to prevent the clamp from slipping off the gear. I then slipped the upper clamp on the upper steering shaft (it went on easily) and tightened the bolt.





Lower steering shaft clamp installed.





Upper clamp of lower steering shaft installed.

rogersmithiii

The people who had this issue: Did the steering get hard at low RPMs, but ease up when RPMs increased?

Rog

04.5 f150

I replaced mine this weekend with a Dorman part and the steering wheel now has about 3/4 inch play on both sides. Looking at the u joints it looks like they are sloppy.
Did I do something wrong or could it be a flaw in the part?

Nickzdad

I know that this is an old thread. I am just posting information for others to use.

I just had to replace the lower bolt on my steering shaft (intermediate steering shaft to gear box connection) because the head of the bolt rounded and would not come out easy. The part number that I got from my dealer for the top bolt (M10 bolt - 13mm head) W711484-S439 for $6.50. The part number for the lower bolt (M8 bolt - 10mm head) N808684-S100 for $3.50.

These bolts metric flange head and are galvanized, (or zinc coated or whatever Ford does to keep the steel from rusting quickly) and coated with thread locker.

My truck is a 2007 F150, 5.4L, 4WD

Lebowski

I just bought a 2006 F150 XL yesterday with the 4.2 V6 and 135k on it and I think I need to replace the steering shaft. It looks like Amazon has them for $50 and O'Reilly has them for $290. Why the big disparity in price? Could someone please post the part number? And thanks to all who contributed comments and pics to this thread....

bobothehobo

Bought mine from rockauto.com $80

Spartandawg

Please HELP!!!!! I can't get the lower 10mm bolt off the intermediate steering shaft on a recently purchased 2006 F150 5.4L. The bolt was so corroded that the first attempt after spraying with penetrating oil it only slipped and rounded the corners. I tried using a bolt extractor but can get it the socket on enough because I can hit it with a hammer. Debating on using a torch to heat it up but the area is too tight. Any suggestions????

Rippedsquad

I’m planning for it next week... glad to hear all the things I should watch out for!!
id love to get the part number from somebody...
I’m going oem tho , heard to many complaints of the aftermarket shafts...
ive got the 07 4.6L RWD...
there are two on amazon and I don’t know which one will work...

Ford 8L1Z-3B676-A - SHAFT ASY

or

Ford Shaft ASY

JW64

Only thing I can add is clean the end of upper shaft that slides into top of lower shaft with steel wool or wire brush, it's a pita to get in. I'd spread the top of the new lower shaft just a smidge beforehand, it'll save some frustration and wrenching your neck trying to use it as leverage to get it in. And as initial poster mentioned, have top bolt head pointing towards brake fluid reservoir, actually between reservoir and brake booster, that'll put bottom bolt in perfect spot to access from bottom going straight at it with 12-15" extension and a 10mm swivel socket or 10mm socket attached to swivel universal. You can get your other hand in there from underneath to hold it onto nut and I have a big hand, just so it's on there flat and snug so you don't screw up the bolt head because it was tight and swivels just tend to move a little especially with a long extension attached. I bungeed the lower radiator hose up as much as I could, just easier without it right in the way of lower bolt which is right where it lays. And I pb blasted the hell out of both ends. You may not get new bolts, if not, spray bolts and let sit once they're out and steel wool or wire brush them. Before you even start putting new one in, while it's out, thread the bolts in and remove, just makes it easier when ratcheting them back in in an awkward position if there was a little crud on bolt or paint on new threads. With the swivel and proper extensions the bottom bolt was easy to get to from the bottom, I just pulled up on a couple pieces of 3" pieces of wood and there was more than enough room. Oh and not alot of room to get lower bolt back in, I taped it to socket to get it going in nice and straight. Some half *** little things here, but if you've never done it before, it'll help.