94'snap

I just did the Right inner drag link on my 94' F150 4x4 with the 4.9L. The main parts of the steering is- (Right is the passenger side and left is the driver side)
The steering box-to the pitman arm-which connects to the right inner link-and that goes to the right turnbuckle and into the right tierod end. For the left side it connects to the right inner about 6" down from the pitman arm. My right inner broke at the joint and left me with no sterring (It was in the drive way luckly!)

What happend with me was the right inner went bad, the ball came out of the socket at the pitman arm. Here is how I chaned it out.

You will need a 7/8" socket for the nut the connects the left and right arms.
A 11/16 or a 13/16 (Cant remember off the top of my head) for the right were it bolts to the pitman arm.
Pilliars to get the cotter pins out.
Tape measure
Heavy hammer, like a 3 or 4lb
Tourque wrench
New cotter pins
Grease gun
Torch (optional)
Common sense
Jack/jackstands

Step one- is to unbolt the left side from the right. Take the right off the end of the left were it goes into the right, then put it back on finger tight upside down so that the top of the "castle" is down. If you are going to be replaceing the left also just smack the hell out of the stud IF YOU ARE GOING TO REPLACE IT ONLY!!!! If you are not sandwhich 2 hammers on the right shaft and just beat the hell out of the right shaft and it should knock the left one out. After its off just push it off to the side.

Step 2- Take your tape measure and measure from the zerk fitting on the right tierod to the zerk on the end of the right rod and right that measure ment down somewhere. Mine was around 41ish depending on your aliment. Dont count the threads because the parts arnt made on the same mechine so there could be more threads on one there is on a nother one.

Step three- Spray the turnbuckle down with some lube and lossen the nut on the side of the right rod. Leave the one on the side of the rod end alone. Then just unscew the right rod out of the turn buckle(Its a left hand thread).

Step 4- I did it this way cause my right shaft was disconnected from the ball, it was still in the pitman arm. Take a torch and heat the end of the pitman arm up and then take a heavy hammer and wack the side of the ball that is in the arm. 3 good smacks then you should be able to tap the top of it and it should fall right out.

Step 5- Take your new right rod and screw it into the turnbuckle to your original measument. Then connect the other end to the pitman arm and tighten the nut with your hand. Then take the left side and bolt it to the right side. It is also easier to jack the front end up so that you can move the tires to get everything to line up. I put everything to 85 ft-lbs. DONT FORGET THE COTTER PINS!!!!!!

Step six- Go over EVERYTHING making sure that its all tight, all the cotter pins are in and you greased everything. Clean everything up and you are done. I have a firiend that worked at a Ford dealer with 10 or 12 years, that is were I get my info from.

Any question just ask!



The black rod is the new right rod, you can see where the lefts comes in and bolts to it. At the end of the right rod is the pit man arm going to the steering box.



This is the right side inner going into the turnbuckle, that goes into the tie rod end.



Same thing but on the left side.

burnt orange

nice

Raymond Straughan

I need to do the same thing to my truck. In looking up the parts, I see a couple of different part numbers for what looks like the same part. Is there really a difference? Did you just use whatever part that looked right?

Manimal32

I see a truck as an investment too. I have a 95 f150 4x4 in bad *** shape. I dont care what it's worth $ wise as I'll never sell it. I'm going to put a lift kit on mine 33 inch mudders tho a lift kit isn't needed for f150 stock. It'll hold 33s at 150$ a tire