The Definitive Bilstein 5100 DIY Install Thread
#61
that it is optional (as a lot of them are cracked). What have others done.
Last edited by bmakozs; 09-21-2014 at 04:03 PM.
#62
Senior Member
Ok so i have the same issue with all the rattling since i had my 5100's installed.. I want to make sure i am getting this.. in this pic i have attached is the nut on the top of the shock mount supposed to be down farther?? It does feel like there is some space between the bottom of the nut and the base under maybe like 1/8" but my mechanic said it was all tight?? does it look to high from this pic??
#63
Ok so i have the same issue with all the rattling since i had my 5100's installed.. I want to make sure i am getting this.. in this pic i have attached is the nut on the top of the shock mount supposed to be down farther?? It does feel like there is some space between the bottom of the nut and the base under maybe like 1/8" but my mechanic said it was all tight?? does it look to high from this pic??
It needs to be torqued down a bit more. I just had mine done yesterday and they were clunking. This morning I tightened the drivers side down, the passenger side was fine. You should normally have close to an inch of thread showing above that nut, if the assembly was rebuilt correctly. Looking through the fender well on mine, you can barely see the top of the nut. You'll need an offset wrench to get in there, once you drive the nut down further, it gets hard to get ahold of it without the offset wrench. Use an allen wrench at the top of the stud to keep it from moving.
#65
FlyFisher
Glad you got it corrected and things are good. This is probably one of the most common issues people have after installing these since most do not re-tighten those nuts when the truck is off the jacks and at normal riding level. Now enjoy the ride.
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13FX150 (10-15-2014)
#66
Junior Member
So I'm in the middle of this right now... I used Bucks method and removed the lower control arm.
My question is how did all that went this way mark the location of the lower control arm before removing them? I just marked the bolt with paint pen.
How critical is it to make sure it is exactly in the same spot? I will try my best but I don't see how to make sure it is exactly in the same spot. The way I see it it shouldn't be a problem as long as it is fairly close to before as the alignment should be able to correct for any slight difference. Am I way off?
Just a little nervous now... don't want to ruin my new tires or cause any other problems.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks!
My question is how did all that went this way mark the location of the lower control arm before removing them? I just marked the bolt with paint pen.
How critical is it to make sure it is exactly in the same spot? I will try my best but I don't see how to make sure it is exactly in the same spot. The way I see it it shouldn't be a problem as long as it is fairly close to before as the alignment should be able to correct for any slight difference. Am I way off?
Just a little nervous now... don't want to ruin my new tires or cause any other problems.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks!
#67
Installed mine today, thanks to all on this forum for the advice. I didn't do Buck's method, I had a decent drive to the alignment shop and was afraid of getting it back close enough to drive 50mph.
One thing I didn't see mentioned here, I borrowed a pitman arm puller from Advance after fighting to break the ball joints loose. Theirs was just barely big enough to fit around the knuckle. It worked perfect though, I would get it as a backup if you're planning this, mine were too tight for the hammer method.
One thing I didn't see mentioned here, I borrowed a pitman arm puller from Advance after fighting to break the ball joints loose. Theirs was just barely big enough to fit around the knuckle. It worked perfect though, I would get it as a backup if you're planning this, mine were too tight for the hammer method.
#68
Just installed these last weekend on my '04 4x4. I set on the top setting and I still have 3/4" rake. I'm happy with the ride but not the "level" itself. Any ideas on how to get this level? Or has anyone had the same problem?
#69
2016 Lariat 5.0
This may sound like a bit of a dumb question, but I haven't seen anything on the forum about being able to determine what the appropriate setting is to level out the front of the truck prior to installing the 5100s. It seems like most have stuck with the 1.5" or 2" setting to avoid bringing the nose too high.
Is the best method just to measure from the ground to the top of the fender on the front and rear, and adjust the front to match or be slightly less than the rear? Asking because this doesn't sound like the type of install that someone wants to do twice in day.
Is the best method just to measure from the ground to the top of the fender on the front and rear, and adjust the front to match or be slightly less than the rear? Asking because this doesn't sound like the type of install that someone wants to do twice in day.
#70
So I need to remove and send my coilovers to Pro Comp to have them rebuilt. This seems like a pretty straight forward process to remove them. Am I correct to say that I can pretty much follow the process in here to remove my coilovers from my 2011 FX4?
Basically remove the hat bolts, lower show bolt, sway bar bolt, spindle & UCA bolt. Then let the LCA drop without stressing brake lines and remove the coilover?
Will this mess with my alignment?
Basically remove the hat bolts, lower show bolt, sway bar bolt, spindle & UCA bolt. Then let the LCA drop without stressing brake lines and remove the coilover?
Will this mess with my alignment?