dieselhunter44

I think it's sticky worthy since it's such a popular upgrade and very well written

13FX150

I agree.. i just got my fronts in the day before Christmas still waiting on the rears and finding the time to do the install..

ScottyBoost

Hey does anybody know the torque values for those lower control arm pivot bolts that need to bee undone when using bucks method?

Driftboater

Action, thanks for the great instructions, and thank you Buck for the time-saving tip; I printed and used both when I installed the fronts last weekend. A couple safety points I think should be pointed out- if you're going to compress the spring beyond the stock setting with manual hand compressors, USE 2 PAIRS as Action recommended. I rented one pair because that was all that was available- the tech said it should work fine. The adjustment bolts started bowing when I barely got past the stock setting. I went to a different store to rent another pair and it worked well with both pairs. One thing I learned when I had the alignment checked is to ensure that you mark the location of the lower control arm (LCA) bolts on the frame prior to loosening. When you reinstall the LCA, line the bolts up with your marks then tighten. Not doing so will cause a big problem with your caster/camber. The shop charged me an extra $20 because they had to loosen the LCA bolts to ensure proper alignment, which apparently is out of the ordinary.

Scotty- If I remember correctly, the LCA torque specs are just over 250ftlbs @ 258ftlbs. I will double check my Chiltons book when I get home and correct if wrong.

Hope this helps.

Driftboater

Some ppl have asked for torque specs:

According to the manual I have (2004 and newer):

LCA= Lower Control Arm; UCA= Upper Control Arm; BJ= Balljoint (get your mind out of the gutter ); SK= Steering Knuckle; SA= Shock Absorber

All in Ft-lbs
Front Suspension:
Front wheel hub/bearing assembly nuts:
-2008 and earlier (4wd only)= 148
-2009 and later(2wd and 4wd)= 129

LCA to frame nuts (mark their position relative to frame before loosening- support with jack):
2wd
-2006 and earlier= 222
-2007 and later= 258
4wd
-2004 and 2005: 222
-2006 and later: 258

LCA BJ to SK nut= 111

SA to LCA nuts:
-2008 and earlier= 351
-2009 and later= 406 (good luck getting enough leverage unless truck is on a lift- I couldn't and neither could my partner. A tough air impact wrench may come in handy).

SA upper mounting nuts:
-2008 and earlier= 35
-2009 and later= 30

Stabilizer bar links:
-to control arm= 66
-to stabilizer bar:
--2004 and 2005= 98
--2006-2008= 18
--2009 and later=59

Stabilizer bar bracket to frame bolts:
-2004 and 2005= 35
-2006 and later= 41

UCA to frame bolt/nut:
-2004 and 2005= 114
-2006 and later= 111

UCA BJ to SK nut= 85

I'll post the rear in a separate post. Hope this helps.

z.l.davis

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys have a question...recently had someone install front 5100s. The nut on the top center that has the red X on the page 1 pictures, after the new ones are installed is that supposed to be all the way down snug? He says it wouldn't go but I have rattling loose sounds now over the smallest bumps. It's been raining so my inspection is limited but everything else looks good and feels tight. I've researched people tightening it to fix clunking but I wanna make sure by tighten they meant tighten flush to the surface. Thanks!

RES4CUE

I'm pretty sure it is supposed to be.

You have to hold the shock shaft as it will spin while tightening. That is probably why he said it wouldn't tighten.

Driftboater

Snug the bolt down while on the jack/stands. Then tighten the nut to the specified torque setting when the truck is off the jack/stands, on the ground at regular ride height. After driving around a little bit, check the nut in case the shock/spring settled some.

papa tiger

It may be cross threaded and the nut is seized. Hope not that way. There is tremendous spring tension there abouts.

z.l.davis

iTrader: (1)

Ok I'll try it after work, appreciate it guys.