Topic Sponsor
Tires, Wheels and Suspension "How-To" articles pertaining to the Tires, Wheels and Suspension of an F150.

The Definitive Bilstein 5100 DIY Install Thread

Old 09-20-2014, 07:58 AM
  #61  
Junior Member
 
bmakozs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bmakozs
This is what the tops of my front 5100s look like. I don't remember being able to see the yellow boot before, and was wondering if the shop guy forgot to re-use
all of the required parts?

Looks like the shop forgot to re-use the dust cover. Is this OK? I have read on other threads
that it is optional (as a lot of them are cracked). What have others done.

Last edited by bmakozs; 09-21-2014 at 04:03 PM.
Old 09-30-2014, 10:37 AM
  #62  
Senior Member
 
13FX150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Garland, TX
Posts: 200
Received 20 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RES4CUE
I'm pretty sure it is supposed to be.

You have to hold the shock shaft as it will spin while tightening. That is probably why he said it wouldn't tighten.
Ok so i have the same issue with all the rattling since i had my 5100's installed.. I want to make sure i am getting this.. in this pic i have attached is the nut on the top of the shock mount supposed to be down farther?? It does feel like there is some space between the bottom of the nut and the base under maybe like 1/8" but my mechanic said it was all tight?? does it look to high from this pic??
Attached Images  
Old 10-04-2014, 12:00 PM
  #63  
Senior Member
 
wallacemf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 13FX150
Ok so i have the same issue with all the rattling since i had my 5100's installed.. I want to make sure i am getting this.. in this pic i have attached is the nut on the top of the shock mount supposed to be down farther?? It does feel like there is some space between the bottom of the nut and the base under maybe like 1/8" but my mechanic said it was all tight?? does it look to high from this pic??

It needs to be torqued down a bit more. I just had mine done yesterday and they were clunking. This morning I tightened the drivers side down, the passenger side was fine. You should normally have close to an inch of thread showing above that nut, if the assembly was rebuilt correctly. Looking through the fender well on mine, you can barely see the top of the nut. You'll need an offset wrench to get in there, once you drive the nut down further, it gets hard to get ahold of it without the offset wrench. Use an allen wrench at the top of the stud to keep it from moving.
Old 10-13-2014, 09:37 AM
  #64  
Senior Member
 
13FX150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Garland, TX
Posts: 200
Received 20 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

Finally got to slow down and try tightening these nuts down and that was the fix.. no more rattling!!! yeah thanks for all the advice...
Old 10-14-2014, 05:21 PM
  #65  
FlyFisher
 
Driftboater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Big Sky Country
Posts: 333
Received 72 Likes on 66 Posts

Default

Glad you got it corrected and things are good. This is probably one of the most common issues people have after installing these since most do not re-tighten those nuts when the truck is off the jacks and at normal riding level. Now enjoy the ride.
The following users liked this post:
13FX150 (10-15-2014)
Old 10-30-2014, 04:22 PM
  #66  
Junior Member
 
Mazdaratti3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 20
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

So I'm in the middle of this right now... I used Bucks method and removed the lower control arm.

My question is how did all that went this way mark the location of the lower control arm before removing them? I just marked the bolt with paint pen.

How critical is it to make sure it is exactly in the same spot? I will try my best but I don't see how to make sure it is exactly in the same spot. The way I see it it shouldn't be a problem as long as it is fairly close to before as the alignment should be able to correct for any slight difference. Am I way off?

Just a little nervous now... don't want to ruin my new tires or cause any other problems.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Old 12-20-2014, 08:14 PM
  #67  
Senior Member
 
kp72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 109
Received 16 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Installed mine today, thanks to all on this forum for the advice. I didn't do Buck's method, I had a decent drive to the alignment shop and was afraid of getting it back close enough to drive 50mph.

One thing I didn't see mentioned here, I borrowed a pitman arm puller from Advance after fighting to break the ball joints loose. Theirs was just barely big enough to fit around the knuckle. It worked perfect though, I would get it as a backup if you're planning this, mine were too tight for the hammer method.
Old 01-16-2015, 11:45 PM
  #68  
Senior Member
 
Epperson20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 178
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Just installed these last weekend on my '04 4x4. I set on the top setting and I still have 3/4" rake. I'm happy with the ride but not the "level" itself. Any ideas on how to get this level? Or has anyone had the same problem?
Old 02-04-2015, 02:06 AM
  #69  
2016 Lariat 5.0
 
jstrain14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 311
Received 52 Likes on 44 Posts

Default

This may sound like a bit of a dumb question, but I haven't seen anything on the forum about being able to determine what the appropriate setting is to level out the front of the truck prior to installing the 5100s. It seems like most have stuck with the 1.5" or 2" setting to avoid bringing the nose too high.

Is the best method just to measure from the ground to the top of the fender on the front and rear, and adjust the front to match or be slightly less than the rear? Asking because this doesn't sound like the type of install that someone wants to do twice in day.
Old 05-16-2015, 05:26 PM
  #70  
Member
 
Corbin_Az's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 37
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

So I need to remove and send my coilovers to Pro Comp to have them rebuilt. This seems like a pretty straight forward process to remove them. Am I correct to say that I can pretty much follow the process in here to remove my coilovers from my 2011 FX4?


Basically remove the hat bolts, lower show bolt, sway bar bolt, spindle & UCA bolt. Then let the LCA drop without stressing brake lines and remove the coilover?


Will this mess with my alignment?

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: The Definitive Bilstein 5100 DIY Install Thread



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:32 PM.