How-to: Rigid Dually Reverse Lights Install - Picture Heavy
12-23-2013, 07:16 AM
#11
Engimaneer
I used 18 gauge wire for everything except the dimmer--that got 20 gauge. I tapped into the dimmer wire on the Instrument Panel Dimmer switch itself, but all the lighted switches on the dash have a dimmer wire, so you could tap into the circuit from the headlight switch, 4wd switch, etc.
12-23-2013, 09:40 AM
#12
Just Another Member
Thread Starter
Haha well now I feel like an idiot... Guess the harness to the dimmer itself should have been obvious. And perfect 18 it is! Never done anything more than put a new stereo in so trying to figure out these relays and lighted switches is throwing me for a bit of a loop. But I'm getting there haha thanks for the help!
12-31-2013, 01:04 PM
#13
Senior Member
Great write up...another route you can take if you have the 7 pin trailer receiver is to grab your "reverse signal" from a harness in the left side of the engine compartment close to the fire wall(assuming it's located the same place in your 3.5 as it is in my 5.0.) I believe it's gray/brown and should be the center pin of the 7 pin receiver at the back of the truck if you want to do a sanity check. If you pick up your reverse signal from here it's pretty easy to put your relay under the hood or in the cab to better protect it from the weather. It's the far connector in this photo that has the single red 18ga wire running to it.
As I already said, great write up, I just wanted to add this little wrinkle to provide a slightly different route to take if anyone was interested. It's a little easier to keep some things out of the weather, and it minimizes what has to be run to the back of the truck.
As I already said, great write up, I just wanted to add this little wrinkle to provide a slightly different route to take if anyone was interested. It's a little easier to keep some things out of the weather, and it minimizes what has to be run to the back of the truck.
Last edited by benchwarmer4203; 12-31-2013 at 01:07 PM. Reason: Typo
The following 2 users liked this post by benchwarmer4203:
Theocoog (12-31-2013),
Total Automotive Performance (12-31-2013)
12-31-2013, 03:28 PM
#14
F150 Forum
iTrader: (3)
How come I havent seen this before!? This was a GREAT write up!
Thank you for supporting TAP and thank you for taking the time to document this install!
We are still offering killer deals on Rigid Industries LED lighting, PM me for pricing
-Chas
Thank you for supporting TAP and thank you for taking the time to document this install!
We are still offering killer deals on Rigid Industries LED lighting, PM me for pricing
-Chas
12-31-2013, 05:38 PM
#15
Just Another Member
Thread Starter
Great write up...another route you can take if you have the 7 pin trailer receiver is to grab your "reverse signal" from a harness in the left side of the engine compartment close to the fire wall(assuming it's located the same place in your 3.5 as it is in my 5.0.) I believe it's gray/brown and should be the center pin of the 7 pin receiver at the back of the truck if you want to do a sanity check. If you pick up your reverse signal from here it's pretty easy to put your relay under the hood or in the cab to better protect it from the weather. It's the far connector in this photo that has the single red 18ga wire running to it.
As I already said, great write up, I just wanted to add this little wrinkle to provide a slightly different route to take if anyone was interested. It's a little easier to keep some things out of the weather, and it minimizes what has to be run to the back of the truck.
As I already said, great write up, I just wanted to add this little wrinkle to provide a slightly different route to take if anyone was interested. It's a little easier to keep some things out of the weather, and it minimizes what has to be run to the back of the truck.
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Total Automotive Performance (12-31-2013)
01-05-2014, 06:10 PM
#16
Senior Member
The Carling switches and boxes are well designed and the switch holder just snapped right into place. I used the “two position” switch holder with comes apart and can be expanded to add additional switches if desired. Sorry for the blurry picture.
The Carling Contoura switch that I bought is a SPST switch, on and off. The switch itself lights up when the switch is on and it also has an illumination LED to tie in with the rest of the instrument illumination. This needs separate power. I ordered the switch for OTRATTW with blue lights to match the rest of the dash lights, but they are available in many colors.
The Carling Contoura switch that I bought is a SPST switch, on and off. The switch itself lights up when the switch is on and it also has an illumination LED to tie in with the rest of the instrument illumination. This needs separate power. I ordered the switch for OTRATTW with blue lights to match the rest of the dash lights, but they are available in many colors.
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the switch body without the rocker installed would you?
Thanks,
Dan
01-06-2014, 01:25 PM
#17
Awesome writeup! very informative, just a couple silly questions.
Just wondering how you isolated pin 1 on the dimmer switch?
I'm looking at putting a bank of 6 of the OTRATTW switched but I am worried about the brightness, do you think you could run 6 switches in parallel from the dimmer switch?
Just wondering how you isolated pin 1 on the dimmer switch?
I'm looking at putting a bank of 6 of the OTRATTW switched but I am worried about the brightness, do you think you could run 6 switches in parallel from the dimmer switch?
01-07-2014, 09:24 PM
#18
Just Another Member
Thread Starter
Did the 2 switch holder come with the grey bezel as well? You just ordered 2 of these? The second picture the bezel looks black? You really cant see the seam.
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the switch body without the rocker installed would you?
Thanks,
Dan
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the switch body without the rocker installed would you?
Thanks,
Dan
They are black (or very dark grey). Yes, I ordered two of those - they snap together and you can barely see the seam. There is a middle section that they sell too, so you can make a holder for as many switches as you want.
Sorry, no pic of just the switch body. I ordered the switch and body together and they came snapped together. It did come with a tool to separate them...
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Bumpncarstereo (01-11-2014)
01-07-2014, 09:29 PM
#19
Just Another Member
Thread Starter
Awesome writeup! very informative, just a couple silly questions.
Just wondering how you isolated pin 1 on the dimmer switch?
I'm looking at putting a bank of 6 of the OTRATTW switched but I am worried about the brightness, do you think you could run 6 switches in parallel from the dimmer switch?
Just wondering how you isolated pin 1 on the dimmer switch?
I'm looking at putting a bank of 6 of the OTRATTW switched but I am worried about the brightness, do you think you could run 6 switches in parallel from the dimmer switch?
I identified the correct wire on the wiring diagram, and tapped it with a PosiTap. I plan to run a jumper from that to another switch in the near future. They are LEDs and draw very little current, so I don't see that a few more will stress the wiring. You might want to put a diode on there to prevent any current backflow into the main dimmer switch, but I didn't do that in my installation and I've had no problems so far. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll do my best to answer.
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cholm (01-08-2014)
