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My first car, my grandfather had rigged it so that he could flip a switch and it would either be stock mode or constantly active. I never got around to seeking out his wiring (he was a damn good electrician)
But that's cool that people were amazed haha
People are always amazed when I show them
I just told my dad about what I did today and he doesn't mind the idea as long as I don't start the truck on fire like I did last week. Now I know you're wondering how, so I'll just tell you. I was trying to hard wire more power points in and it didn't have an inline fuse and I shoved it into a 30 amp fuse block and wires started to melt and smoke and they were hot as hell to grab and pull so I ran into the garage to grab a work glove and when I came out the SOB had flames trying to melt my dash. So now you know haha. But anyways my dad showed me a little metal connector piece that I should wire into the back of the fuse block to the constant so I can run my CB and the window trick. He showed me the opposite of what piece I need, what he showed me was two males and one female. So I have to find a piece that has two females and one male. Then I wire it into the back of the block that way I can run both. I just don't know when I'll get to that project The exhaust is in the works now
95 F150 XLT 5.8L EFI 4x4
Keep it Wet and Dirty!
To make it easy for a kid with a hanger to roll your window down, open your door, and steal stuff fom your truck, perhaps?
Depends on where you park, and the situation of which you leave your truck. Me? I leave my windows closed completely whenever I park. It's not a common feature anyways so not many people will expect it to work. My key-fob vibrates and rings when someone so much as looks at my truck wrong, so if they want to try it, I'll take that hanger and give them a flossing that they wont ever forget
My 1985 Euro BMW M635 has a feature like this, but I think even better. The factory wired the window on a secondary circuit so the windows will operate when the key is on, like normal, but they also work anytime the doors are open. I believe it is through the dome light circuit. This way, if you already stopped the engine and removed the key, but forgot to put the windows up, they will still work until you close the doors. The advantage is once the doors are closed and locked, no one can slip a shim through the edge of the glass and push the window switch and open the windows to steal stuff.
I had the feature that rolled up the windows when you walked away and pressed the lock button on the fob. It was a neat feature. And for a hot day, that allowed me to drop down a couple windows 1-2" to vent heat out and press the electric door lock switch (not the fob!) I much prefer coming back to a 120 degree car as opposed to a 150 degree car.
An Evil Screaming Flying Door Monkey From Hell tried to steal my truck!
Last edited by GunnarzF150; 10-09-2012 at 01:36 AM.
Well you guys got me thinking, and I may just look into it if I have the time.
I have a viper alarm on my truck, so I may try to figure out how to get the hot windows to lock-out when the alarm is set. Shouldn't be too difficult, just requires a relay and some momentary on signal to lock out the windows...
I may even go as far as figuring out how to get it to work without an aftermarket alarm... such as a time delay accessory mode or lock-out when doors are locked electronically (with regards to operation while vehicle is running)
or something. Hmm...
In order to have your windows roll up via remote. You will need a after market alarm through the alarm you can use a channel to roll windows down and if you have a 3rd channel for neons or sunroof. Then when you arm the aftermarket alarm it will roll/close everything up. Would have to buy direct electronics window up/down module (ebay, amazon, bestbuy). I cant think of the part number but it is a universal part but only for aftermarket alarms. Easy to install if you have electronic experience.
With GOD on your side anything is possible.
2013 F150 FX2 V8 5.0, 20x9 275/60R20, 2.5" level, Black FX2 Decals, 12volt gauge, Sound Ordnance Sub