How To Rig your electric windows - works on any vehicle
#1
Jordan
Thread Starter
How To Rig your electric windows - works on any vehicle
Every vehicle we own, we have rigged the windows to work when the keys arent in. Why you may ask?
You forget to roll your windows up, you have to find the key and put it in the ignition. People riding in your car forget to roll it up...
There are many reasons why. Conveinience.
By the Way, i will not be responsible for anything that happens after you do this, IE kid getting stuck in the window, property damage, etc etc.
The way I was taught, was to go through the fuses. It took probably not even five minutes to do this.
First, look at your fuse diagram to find the "PWR WINDOWS" fuse. This is my 1992 f150
Remove the Fuse.
Now grab that electrical tester such as this one.
MAKE SURE THE IGNITION IS OFF
now test the two spaces where the Power window fuse sits, with the ignition on, and off. figure out which one is the input (power) and which leads to the window. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.
Ground the black node of your tester to the body of the vehicle somewhere, and begin poking around in the Empty fuse holes for a live 12 (Hot all the time, not controlled by ignition, etc, etc)
Once you've found one, Congratulations!!
if not, then you'll need to find a hot lead somewhere beneath the dash
Make two 'Jumper' wires, in this order: Hot lead, to fuse, to power window fuse slot, using spade connectors (1/4" worked perfect for me).
excuse the other crazy wires, just concentrate on the ones connected to the Floating Fuse.
So to simplify:
You should end up with a "Floating Fuse", with one wire on each leg.
one leg is connected to the power window original fuse location (THE WINDOW SIDE, NOT THE SIDE THAT GETS POWER WHEN THE IGNITION IS ON!!)
And the other leg of the fuse goes to an always Hot source.
YOURE NOT DONE JUST YET.
***Make sure to tape up all the connections, so your
Just like in the last picture, tape up all the spade connectors so you wont ground out anything! Trust me it happened once, blew a fuse up front...it was on a Dodge though...***
its VERY VERY simple, i just want to make sure you dont blow up anything.
You forget to roll your windows up, you have to find the key and put it in the ignition. People riding in your car forget to roll it up...
There are many reasons why. Conveinience.
By the Way, i will not be responsible for anything that happens after you do this, IE kid getting stuck in the window, property damage, etc etc.
The way I was taught, was to go through the fuses. It took probably not even five minutes to do this.
First, look at your fuse diagram to find the "PWR WINDOWS" fuse. This is my 1992 f150
Remove the Fuse.
Now grab that electrical tester such as this one.
MAKE SURE THE IGNITION IS OFF
now test the two spaces where the Power window fuse sits, with the ignition on, and off. figure out which one is the input (power) and which leads to the window. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.
Ground the black node of your tester to the body of the vehicle somewhere, and begin poking around in the Empty fuse holes for a live 12 (Hot all the time, not controlled by ignition, etc, etc)
Once you've found one, Congratulations!!
if not, then you'll need to find a hot lead somewhere beneath the dash
Make two 'Jumper' wires, in this order: Hot lead, to fuse, to power window fuse slot, using spade connectors (1/4" worked perfect for me).
excuse the other crazy wires, just concentrate on the ones connected to the Floating Fuse.
So to simplify:
You should end up with a "Floating Fuse", with one wire on each leg.
one leg is connected to the power window original fuse location (THE WINDOW SIDE, NOT THE SIDE THAT GETS POWER WHEN THE IGNITION IS ON!!)
And the other leg of the fuse goes to an always Hot source.
YOURE NOT DONE JUST YET.
***Make sure to tape up all the connections, so your
Just like in the last picture, tape up all the spade connectors so you wont ground out anything! Trust me it happened once, blew a fuse up front...it was on a Dodge though...***
its VERY VERY simple, i just want to make sure you dont blow up anything.
#4
Senior Member
The following users liked this post:
Erick_J (02-25-2024)
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#8
electric windows
Mr7confused..do you..would you...could you..have any idea of how to disable the darn auto return for the driver and passenger windows on the '11 150s??? Had new in track vent shades installed and now the auto-back option thinks someone/thing is in the way (in a way I suppose it's just doing it's job...but..) There IS an override..you wait for the window to return to the 1/3 open pos. and express up within 2 seconds. OR you don't express up at all..take the window up to 'bout the bottom of the shades and nibble it up. Window will seal and I expect that in time this will "wear in"..but for now... Any info appreciated..
#9
Jordan
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PeteD
Mr7confused..do you..would you...could you..have any idea of how to disable the darn auto return for the driver and passenger windows on the '11 150s??? Had new in track vent shades installed and now the auto-back option thinks someone/thing is in the way (in a way I suppose it's just doing it's job...but..) There IS an override..you wait for the window to return to the 1/3 open pos. and express up within 2 seconds. OR you don't express up at all..take the window up to 'bout the bottom of the shades and nibble it up. Window will seal and I expect that in time this will "wear in"..but for now... Any info appreciated..
#10
Auto down fuse
Mr7..checked the fuse chart in the manual. Fuse one is for driver's window and three is for passenger..however there are no indicated fuses for sensors as such..there is however a "run/accessory" fuse...hmmmm and thanks for the get-back