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Old 10-08-2012, 07:07 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by raif281 View Post
can i get a better shot from the engine to the frame to see exactly where it's coming from on the engine? thanks a ton man an great write up!
Its right near the front, passenger side. I used the same spot. If you notice where he put them all to the frame (front passenger wheel well) its like a 1ft piece of wire I used to go from frame to engine.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:03 PM   #42
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Videos are dead im doing this today i hope it works out well

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Originally Posted by mblouir View Post
Here you can see the final upgrade, which is engine block to frame ground. There are many bolts you can use….just pick one and make sure the connection is clean. You can see this one in the lower left of the first picture. It was a tight fit to undo this bolt and connect the ring terminal, but I did that and then connected it to the frame ground location, as seen in the second pic.

Now reconnect your negative terminal and test everything. Here’s a final look at everything during testing (right before I finalized their locations and zip-tied them in place). You can see that I still used too much wire for some locations, but it’s better to have a little more than run short.


Before/after videos using Gryphon's voltage display

In both videos I did two things: rolled all four windows down at the same time and cranked the system up. In the first video it took me a minute to get the song playing (sorry) but I cranked it up about as loud as I'll ever listen to it. In the second video I cranked it way past what I would normally listen to and then dropped it back down to the loudest I'd ever listen to it. Sorry for the crappy sound but my D90 doesn't pick up bass well at all. Made it sound really choppy.

Note that in the first video, the voltage idles around 13.6. It drops to a minimum of 12.8 while rolling the windows down and back up. While fluctuating with the music it drops to a minimum of 12.8 as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeIoUNrwxqA



Now in the second video note that the voltage idles around 14.1. It drops to a minimum of 13.5 while rolling the windows down and back up. While fluctuating with the music past my regular listening levels it drops to a minimum of 13.4. When I lower it back to regular listening levels it doesn't fluctuate at all except on the heaviest bass notes. All in all I consider that a success.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm-M72dw4uU




Suggestions/Notes

• Try to keep wires away from heat sources inside the engine
• Leave some slack in the new wires for the movements inside the engine bay
• Don’t bother disconnecting stock wiring if you don't want to—current takes the path of least resistance so it won’t hurt anything
• If you still have issues with voltage drops/dimming headlights/etc the next steps for you are to upgrade your battery and alternator (I'm saving up for this)
• This isn’t a difficult task to accomplish as long as you understand what you’re doing to your electrical system. After prep time (including gathering material, cutting wire, attaching ring terminals, etc) it should take an hour tops to install everything.

Hopefully this answers any questions you guys have about this. If not and you still have questions, please ask. Many of us here are willing to help you.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:45 PM   #43
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Keep us posted!
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:01 PM   #44
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Great post. Any thoughts on the total cost?
Used knukoncepts ran zero to the back and did bih 3 for 50 bucks.




I was running a 1000 rms amp to 1 sub and decided go run 2 subs on 2600 hifonics brutus, soon as i hooked up my 2600 no bass. Back to 1000 rms and working fine.
I figured the resistenc flow caused by 8awg engine grounds dropped my voltage below 12 making my amp useless.
As soon as i did this upgrade i can run my epicenter (im white lol)
Brutus 2600 and 4 channel no problems and never get volume spikes.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:03 PM   #45
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Big 3 is amazing. My headlights dim but probably cause im running 2000+ rms on 120 amp alt and basic battery
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:30 AM   #46
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http://www.f150forum.com/f75/big-3-s...ng-how-174540/
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:59 PM   #47
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I might do this on my car too!
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:03 PM   #48
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Has anyone done this to a 2009+? I have a 2012, and trying to confirm I have the right locations for everything. The alternator seems to be at the front bottom right corner of the engine block with the negative wire in the back of the alternator. Everything else I'm having trouble finding. Some pictures would be great if anyone has done it to a newer truck. Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:33 PM   #49
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Man, I've definitely gotta do this.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:15 PM   #50
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What models and years is this upgrade recommended for? I have an '86 with some definite wiring/starting/battery power issues.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:15 PM
 
 
 
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