How-To: Big 3 Upgrade - Page 5 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

Go Back   Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans > Late Model F150s > How-to Section > Electrical, Lights and Audio
Log In 

How-To: Big 3 Upgrade

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-08-2012, 06:07 PM   #41
Senior Member
Marba's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 100

Originally Posted by raif281 View Post
can i get a better shot from the engine to the frame to see exactly where it's coming from on the engine? thanks a ton man an great write up!
Its right near the front, passenger side. I used the same spot. If you notice where he put them all to the frame (front passenger wheel well) its like a 1ft piece of wire I used to go from frame to engine.
2007 F150 XLT 4.6L Triton 4X4 ~ 2" HBS Leveling Kit ~ Interior LED Dome Lights ~ Kenwood Excelon KFC-X1730P 6.5" components/tweeters in front, Kenwood KFC-1680ie components in rear ~ Alpine MRP-F300 ~ JBL GTO-7001 ~ 2 Alpine Type-R's ~ Big 4 Upgrade
Marba is offline   Reply With Quote
Join F150 Forum

Join Today - It's Totally Free!

Are you a Ford F150 fan? If so we invite you to join our community and see what it has to offer. Our site is specifically designed for you and it's a great place for Ford F150 Fans to meet online.
Once you join you'll be able to post messages, upload pictures of your truck, and have a great time with other Ford F150 fans. Whether your an old timer or just bought your F150 you'll find that is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally free!

Join Today! - Click Here JOIN FOR FREE

Old 12-29-2012, 12:03 PM   #42
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 18

Videos are dead im doing this today i hope it works out well

Originally Posted by mblouir View Post
Here you can see the final upgrade, which is engine block to frame ground. There are many bolts you can use….just pick one and make sure the connection is clean. You can see this one in the lower left of the first picture. It was a tight fit to undo this bolt and connect the ring terminal, but I did that and then connected it to the frame ground location, as seen in the second pic.

Now reconnect your negative terminal and test everything. Here’s a final look at everything during testing (right before I finalized their locations and zip-tied them in place). You can see that I still used too much wire for some locations, but it’s better to have a little more than run short.

Before/after videos using Gryphon's voltage display

In both videos I did two things: rolled all four windows down at the same time and cranked the system up. In the first video it took me a minute to get the song playing (sorry) but I cranked it up about as loud as I'll ever listen to it. In the second video I cranked it way past what I would normally listen to and then dropped it back down to the loudest I'd ever listen to it. Sorry for the crappy sound but my D90 doesn't pick up bass well at all. Made it sound really choppy.

Note that in the first video, the voltage idles around 13.6. It drops to a minimum of 12.8 while rolling the windows down and back up. While fluctuating with the music it drops to a minimum of 12.8 as well.

Now in the second video note that the voltage idles around 14.1. It drops to a minimum of 13.5 while rolling the windows down and back up. While fluctuating with the music past my regular listening levels it drops to a minimum of 13.4. When I lower it back to regular listening levels it doesn't fluctuate at all except on the heaviest bass notes. All in all I consider that a success.


• Try to keep wires away from heat sources inside the engine
• Leave some slack in the new wires for the movements inside the engine bay
• Don’t bother disconnecting stock wiring if you don't want to—current takes the path of least resistance so it won’t hurt anything
• If you still have issues with voltage drops/dimming headlights/etc the next steps for you are to upgrade your battery and alternator (I'm saving up for this)
• This isn’t a difficult task to accomplish as long as you understand what you’re doing to your electrical system. After prep time (including gathering material, cutting wire, attaching ring terminals, etc) it should take an hour tops to install everything.

Hopefully this answers any questions you guys have about this. If not and you still have questions, please ask. Many of us here are willing to help you.
moochingoffyourforum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2012, 02:45 PM   #43
Senior Member
5 Year Member
cltgt's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 342

Keep us posted!
2013 F150 Lariat 5.0, 4x4, RC 6" Lift, LRG 20x9 wheels, 35x12.50x20 Tires, Kicker Upgrade kit
2010 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide
cltgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 03:01 PM   #44
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 18

Originally Posted by bruegge View Post
Great post. Any thoughts on the total cost?
Used knukoncepts ran zero to the back and did bih 3 for 50 bucks.

I was running a 1000 rms amp to 1 sub and decided go run 2 subs on 2600 hifonics brutus, soon as i hooked up my 2600 no bass. Back to 1000 rms and working fine.
I figured the resistenc flow caused by 8awg engine grounds dropped my voltage below 12 making my amp useless.
As soon as i did this upgrade i can run my epicenter (im white lol)
Brutus 2600 and 4 channel no problems and never get volume spikes.
moochingoffyourforum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 03:03 PM   #45
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 18

Big 3 is amazing. My headlights dim but probably cause im running 2000+ rms on 120 amp alt and basic battery
moochingoffyourforum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 11:30 PM   #46
Senior Member
ibd2328's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 8,074
ibd2328 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2013, 03:59 PM   #47
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: San Diego
Posts: 81

I might do this on my car too!
idivemike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2013, 05:03 PM   #48
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Camp Lejeune
Posts: 5

Has anyone done this to a 2009+? I have a 2012, and trying to confirm I have the right locations for everything. The alternator seems to be at the front bottom right corner of the engine block with the negative wire in the back of the alternator. Everything else I'm having trouble finding. Some pictures would be great if anyone has done it to a newer truck. Thanks in advance!
alwyslpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2013, 12:33 PM   #49
Goombah Stomper
5 Year Member
JorgeRod54's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,180

Man, I've definitely gotta do this.
2004 Supercab FX4, K&N FIP Kit, Pacesetter Longtube Headers, Magnaflow Hi-flo cats, Magnaflow x-pipe, true dual dynomax bullets, Daystar 2" Leveling Kit, 17x9 KMC XD series Enduros, 315/70/17 Goodyear Duratrac Ats, Gryphon Tuner with 87 performance tune
JorgeRod54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2014, 06:15 PM   #50
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1

What models and years is this upgrade recommended for? I have an '86 with some definite wiring/starting/battery power issues.
Prescottrogers is offline   Reply With Quote

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2015 F150 XLT Screw Audio System Upgrade Log (Sync w/Nav, No Sony) 1Chad Stereo/Audio 58 05-16-2016 04:31 PM
2004 Ford F150 Truck New Body Style Power Heated Turn Signal Upgrade Dual Arm Towing 1ATony Vendor Showcase 8 04-26-2016 10:43 AM
2003 F150 XLT SuperCrew 4x4 Build! 03screw4x4 Members Builds 2 02-19-2016 05:54 AM
new guy, couple questions jcat 2015 - Present Ford F150 0 09-09-2015 10:15 AM

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:43 AM.

Copyright © 2006 - 20011
This site is in no way affiliated with the Ford Motor Company.