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Old 12-11-2012, 03:02 PM   #1
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Default 2013 f-150 xlt dash removal for amp and boost gauge

1. remove (2) 7mm bolts on top of cluster(will need to set parking brake and put into neutral to pop it out)

*(unplug battery)*

2. pop off vent panel, 4wd, and trailer brake cover

3. open bottom tray under radio there is (2)7mm bolts one on each side.

4. open glove box and pop it out of the dash so its hanging from the hinge

5. remove 3 bolts holding air bag in 8mm i believe

6. push out airbag from the bottom and set aside

7. remove the one 7mm bolt holding the other side panel for 12v power

8. pop off the side panel like the other on the driver side

9. remove both 7mm on top that were hidden by the side panels

10. pop out front cd player cover


also the plug connector in the back does not work with metra BT5520 harness but the color coding is the same from prior years. i installed a converter into the front speakers so i can get right and left RCA wires.

i also wired in a boost gauge power(electric) and signal wiring for amp to the trailer brake(white wire).

for the boost gauge ford deleted a lot of vacuum lines in the 2013 vs my old 2011. they have one line coming from passenger side turbo and one from the intake tube going to air box and then they go to a sensor/control valve. Then to the wastegates. i T'd the boost line on the pressure pipe on the passenger side. only downside is it only sees boost not vacuum.

(gauge was custom made by speedhut)
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2013 f-150 xlt dash removal for amp and boost gauge-dash.jpg  

Last edited by redstanger; 12-11-2012 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:08 PM   #2
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Is there a reason you tapped into the front speakers and not the back? Also did you see if the factory amp/radio unit had RCA plugs already?
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:07 PM   #3
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I am looking to do this in a couple days when the vent pod arrives. Do you have any pictures of where you tapped into the vacuum lines? Also what size fittings did you use? Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redstanger View Post

i also wired in a boost gauge power(electric) and signal wiring for amp to the trailer brake(white wire).

for the boost gauge ford deleted a lot of vacuum lines in the 2013 vs my old 2011. they have one line coming from passenger side turbo and one from the intake tube going to air box and then they go to a sensor/control valve. Then to the wastegates. i T'd the boost line on the pressure pipe on the passenger side. only downside is it only sees boost not vacuum.

(gauge was custom made by speedhut)
The white wire you used from the brake controller, I take it this is the 12V switched source you used for the gauge? I also am installing a boost gauge I just got from speedhut (revolution line) electronic boost gauge and am trying to figure out where I need to bring power from. My gauge actually has three separate 12V feeds, one for the switched source to power the gauge electronics and transducer, and the other two are for lighting. Is yours set up this way? What I planned on doing was running the 12V switched wire to a Key On source, and tying the other two sources together and running them to a dimmer source. I'm really not sure what to do as I really would like this to function like the gauge cluster, which has lighting all of the time and just dims when you turn your headlights on. So I have considered tying all 3 12V wires together so that the backlights are always on to mimick the cluster. My only worry is that it'll be too bright.

How did you set yours up to function and how's it working out?

As far as the vac line I'll be doing something different than you did, as I want the vac side of the gauge to be functional.
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Last edited by thecause17; 03-22-2013 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:31 PM   #5
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What did you use for your remote wire for your amp?
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:25 PM   #6
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Do you know if the PAC adaptor will work on the '13?
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Do you know if the PAC adaptor will work on the '13?
It will not. Just returned mine. I used a cheap line out converter from best buy (15$) on the rear speaker leads in the wiring harness and tap a fuse (small one) on fuse 38 for the turn on. Only took the dash apart five times getting it all right. But tonight, success!! Bought a preloaded pioneer 10" sub in slim down firing box. Seems to work well. Will be able to break it in this weekend on a four hour drive to Oregon and back.
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:22 AM   #8
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Moved to correct section
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:56 PM   #9
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anyone know were i can get a install kit for an after market radio/cd player. I have a 2013 F150xl with just an am/fm & would like a cd player
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:52 PM   #10
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Default Remove stereo

I recently bought a pair of subs and I would like to know how I can get behind the stereo and what I would have to remove to do so
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:52 PM
 
 
 
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