Transmission removal/install notes
07-12-2015, 10:04 PM
#21
Hello so I started working on a 97 F150 4.6lL 4x4 for my sons first truck. It needed a transmission on the reinstall the wires that run on top of the transmission near the fuel lines got pinched in the transmission. I got the wires out and finished the install now there is no power to the fuel pump. Do any of those wires have anything to do with the fuel pump? Any help to figure this out would be appreciated as the truck was running fine yesterday just not moving.
03-01-2016, 11:28 PM
#23
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Front drive shaft
More pictures will be added. Tired of typing tonight.
This is article is based off a 2003 F150 with 5.4L FX4 and 4R70W transmission.
Note: There are different methods for transmission removal depending on your tools, garage, lifts, etc. These notes are in general and can be used for any removal application.
**Do this on flat ground if you do not have access to a lift of garage..**
If you have 4wd it is always a good idea to lock it in before starting this procedure so both drive-shafts stay in the same location relative to their differential mounting plates.
Necessary tools:
Floor Jack
another jack of any kind
Lift Stands(this can be optional but works when helping support the tranny)
10-18mm open end wrench set. (Use good quality tools)
1/4 ratchet for tight spaces
3/8 ratchet for general purposes and draining transfer case
1/2 ratchet for the support bracket
Assortment of 10-18mm sockets. Deep well will be needed is some cases.
Extensions for all 3 sockets.
WD-40
Hammer
Pry Bar
Buckets for fluid
Helpful tools:
Garage
Truck Lift
Impact gun
Transmission Jack
Help from friends
Metal chisel
1) Ground Terminal
Always remove the Ground terminal/cable from the battery post.
2) Safe working space, blocking tires.
Block all 4 tires up (if not on a lift).
3) Drain your transfer case fluid.
Use a 3/8 ratchet to loosen the drain plug (bottom left one, top is for filling).
4) Drive-shaft removal.
Unbolt the rear drive shaft ( Four - 12mm/ 12point bolts).
Note: A lot of people like to mark the relationship of the drive shaft to the rear differential plate. However, your drive shaft (slip yoke will only go in two different ways: mine did anyways).
Once it is unbolted, pull from the back to (get a partner to help you) so that you can pull it free of the transfer case. Make sure not to mess up the spline's on the inside of the drive shaft housing.
5) Front drive shaft. (4wd)
If you have 4wd you will need to unbolt or remove your frot drive shaft. I chose to leave my transfer case under the truck with a few ratchet straps. Thus I only unbolted the front shaft from the front differential. Again this is four 12mm/12point bolts.
6)Skid plate removal. (4wd)
Now remove the skid plate under the transfer case for easy access. There are four bolts total. 2- 10mm bolts on each side connecting to to the frame.
7) Transfer case removal.
First unhook the transfer-case wire harness. Its a simply push pull type connector.
Your transfer case is mounted to the very back of the transmission with 6 - 13mm bolts. The top two (one on each side can be a hassle to get to with a socket, so take your time). You may need a swivel extension of ratchet to get them off.
This is article is based off a 2003 F150 with 5.4L FX4 and 4R70W transmission.
Note: There are different methods for transmission removal depending on your tools, garage, lifts, etc. These notes are in general and can be used for any removal application.
**Do this on flat ground if you do not have access to a lift of garage..**
If you have 4wd it is always a good idea to lock it in before starting this procedure so both drive-shafts stay in the same location relative to their differential mounting plates.
Necessary tools:
Floor Jack
another jack of any kind
Lift Stands(this can be optional but works when helping support the tranny)
10-18mm open end wrench set. (Use good quality tools)
1/4 ratchet for tight spaces
3/8 ratchet for general purposes and draining transfer case
1/2 ratchet for the support bracket
Assortment of 10-18mm sockets. Deep well will be needed is some cases.
Extensions for all 3 sockets.
WD-40
Hammer
Pry Bar
Buckets for fluid
Helpful tools:
Garage
Truck Lift
Impact gun
Transmission Jack
Help from friends
Metal chisel
1) Ground Terminal
Always remove the Ground terminal/cable from the battery post.
2) Safe working space, blocking tires.
Block all 4 tires up (if not on a lift).
3) Drain your transfer case fluid.
Use a 3/8 ratchet to loosen the drain plug (bottom left one, top is for filling).
4) Drive-shaft removal.
Unbolt the rear drive shaft ( Four - 12mm/ 12point bolts).
Note: A lot of people like to mark the relationship of the drive shaft to the rear differential plate. However, your drive shaft (slip yoke will only go in two different ways: mine did anyways).
Once it is unbolted, pull from the back to (get a partner to help you) so that you can pull it free of the transfer case. Make sure not to mess up the spline's on the inside of the drive shaft housing.
5) Front drive shaft. (4wd)
If you have 4wd you will need to unbolt or remove your frot drive shaft. I chose to leave my transfer case under the truck with a few ratchet straps. Thus I only unbolted the front shaft from the front differential. Again this is four 12mm/12point bolts.
6)Skid plate removal. (4wd)
Now remove the skid plate under the transfer case for easy access. There are four bolts total. 2- 10mm bolts on each side connecting to to the frame.
7) Transfer case removal.
First unhook the transfer-case wire harness. Its a simply push pull type connector.
Your transfer case is mounted to the very back of the transmission with 6 - 13mm bolts. The top two (one on each side can be a hassle to get to with a socket, so take your time). You may need a swivel extension of ratchet to get them off.
03-12-2016, 01:23 PM
#25
But thats not working
Thanks sort of cool But the torque rods won't come out. (PERIOD).
So short of cuttings the rods, cross member, hole in floor, or lower control arm.
Help me with this. since I'm only removing the transfer Case will it pass over the cross member to the rear? 2001 f150 extended cab
So short of cuttings the rods, cross member, hole in floor, or lower control arm.
Help me with this. since I'm only removing the transfer Case will it pass over the cross member to the rear? 2001 f150 extended cab
02-28-2017, 01:09 PM
#27
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Hello,
First of all a big thanks to ibd2328 for the write up, was a big help to avoid wasting time.
I have an 06 F150 and rebuilt the whole thing. so up to the little headaches, no problem.
Now, I have put it back and I realized that the converter studs actually touch the crank plate.
I already had put back all the bolts on the trans housing to engine.
I realized this as I could not turn the engine over to put back the converter bolts.
Unless I am a pure idiot, which happens, I do not understand how this is even physically possible.
Does anyone have some insight on this?
First of all a big thanks to ibd2328 for the write up, was a big help to avoid wasting time.
I have an 06 F150 and rebuilt the whole thing. so up to the little headaches, no problem.
Now, I have put it back and I realized that the converter studs actually touch the crank plate.
I already had put back all the bolts on the trans housing to engine.
I realized this as I could not turn the engine over to put back the converter bolts.
Unless I am a pure idiot, which happens, I do not understand how this is even physically possible.
Does anyone have some insight on this?
05-30-2017, 06:56 PM
#28
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2000 F-150 5.4L Triton Transmission
hello all! First time poster! Took out the transmission and put the newer one in! But low and behold those darn converter bolts are to long as well and are binding up the trans and engine! I'm just going to lossen up the trans back it out a bit till I can spin it and cut them shorter. Anybody know why they are to long for my truck though?
05-31-2017, 02:07 AM
#29
hello all! First time poster! Took out the transmission and put the newer one in! But low and behold those darn converter bolts are to long as well and are binding up the trans and engine! I'm just going to lossen up the trans back it out a bit till I can spin it and cut them shorter. Anybody know why they are to long for my truck though?
05-31-2017, 09:41 AM
#30
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Yeah, it's the exact same Trans and converter as what came out, took and had them both side by side, as for the spacer plate, if you're talking the metal plate in between the engine and trans yeah it's there as well. I'm not cutting them shorter, been getting a lot of responses and can't thank y'all enough. I figure it's just not aligned properly like I was told. Which sucks because I have it completely put back together and will have to take it all back apart now haha.
