01-28-2015, 05:30 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Topic: Servicing your Transmission Pan and Filter 4R70E and 4R75E (2004-2008 5.4L 3v). Get more information about the following:
• What tools are needed
• Step- by-step direction
• Flushing your transmission – Should you be wary?
Read full discussion bellow
• What tools are needed
• Step- by-step direction
• Flushing your transmission – Should you be wary?
Read full discussion bellow
Servicing your Transmission Pan and Filter 4R70E and 4R75E (2004-2008 5.4L 3v).
07-20-2011, 11:08 AM
#31
2020 Sport
Flushing the transmission IS A BAD IDEA!!!! i repeat BAD IDEA!! I work at a ford dealership and we do not have the equipment nor will we buy it or offer it or reccomend it, The reason being that all the old dirty fluid contains clutch material and matter also the filter has this matter and material in it. WHEN you flush it all of this is pushed out of the filter and recycled to the transmission!! If you are going to have it flushed better to change the filter first then have it flushed. YOU DO NOT WANT THIS CRAP IN YOUR SOLENIODS. I personally have replaced many solenoids on torqshifts due to this fact. ALSO the fluid you get from the auto parts store or dealership is NOT the same it is filled with at factory. They special blend the trans fluid from the factory I for one would like to keep some of this which may be the reason for no torque converter drain. The services we do at the shop are drop the pan, change the filter drain torque converter if possible and refill. NO FLUSHING. All i can offer is my experience with this. ALSO the plug IS a dipstick plug and when they shove the dipstick in at the factory it just goes into the pan.
If you do it this way you get a normal flush and save money:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/2005-f1...r-video-93131/
This does nothing more than move your fluid in the normal direction it would move when driving.
09-23-2011, 11:06 AM
#34
Ford F-150 Lover
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: washington state
Posts: 25
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This is a great post! I was getting thngs together but did not know for sure what to get and this article showed me what to get and how much to get and it was very very well written so a guy like me can under stand it. Again THANK YOU!
12-22-2011, 07:07 PM
#35
Senior Member
Flushing the transmission IS A BAD IDEA!!!! i repeat BAD IDEA!! I work at a ford dealership and we do not have the equipment nor will we buy it or offer it or reccomend it, The reason being that all the old dirty fluid contains clutch material and matter also the filter has this matter and material in it. WHEN you flush it all of this is pushed out of the filter and recycled to the transmission!! If you are going to have it flushed better to change the filter first then have it flushed. YOU DO NOT WANT THIS CRAP IN YOUR SOLENIODS. I personally have replaced many solenoids on torqshifts due to this fact. ALSO the fluid you get from the auto parts store or dealership is NOT the same it is filled with at factory. They special blend the trans fluid from the factory I for one would like to keep some of this which may be the reason for no torque converter drain. The services we do at the shop are drop the pan, change the filter drain torque converter if possible and refill. NO FLUSHING. All i can offer is my experience with this. ALSO the plug IS a dipstick plug and when they shove the dipstick in at the factory it just goes into the pan.
Backyard method (as I was instructed)
1.Find outbound cooling line (it will be the one that becomes hot last)
2.Remove line and plug cooler inlet
3.Add quart of fluid to trans and start engine
4.When fluid starts to sputter out of the cooling line shut down the engine
5.Reconnect cooling line
6.Re-fill transmission, wich will usually be 1 to 2 quarts less then your system capacity, i.e. 6 to 7 quarts for a front drive car, 7 to 9 on a Ranger and more like 10 to 13 on our trucks.
12-24-2011, 05:13 PM
#36
The BG trans fluid exchanger that we use goes inline on the trans cooler line. The truck is then started and brought up to operating temp.It has a reservoir with a diaphragm, so the old fluid is pumped into one side of the diaphragm, which in turn pushes the new fluid into the trans. It exchanges 16 quarts, and in no way sends debris through your transmission.
07-22-2012, 05:08 PM
#40
I would agree that a "commerical Flusher" does pull crap back thru the trans. However, the backyard flush is more of a fluid exchange, your not drawing the fliud back thru your actually allowing the trans to pump the fluid out in the normal operational direction. This is a good thing, as it is about the only way to change nearly 100% (again I said nearly) of the fluid and it will "flush" out the converter in the process. I have used this method for years after having seen the instructions in a Haynes or Chilton manual for a Ford I owned.
Backyard method (as I was instructed)
1.Find outbound cooling line (it will be the one that becomes hot last)
2.Remove line and plug cooler inlet
3.Add quart of fluid to trans and start engine
4.When fluid starts to sputter out of the cooling line shut down the engine
5.Reconnect cooling line
6.Re-fill transmission, wich will usually be 1 to 2 quarts less then your system capacity, i.e. 6 to 7 quarts for a front drive car, 7 to 9 on a Ranger and more like 10 to 13 on our trucks.
Backyard method (as I was instructed)
1.Find outbound cooling line (it will be the one that becomes hot last)
2.Remove line and plug cooler inlet
3.Add quart of fluid to trans and start engine
4.When fluid starts to sputter out of the cooling line shut down the engine
5.Reconnect cooling line
6.Re-fill transmission, wich will usually be 1 to 2 quarts less then your system capacity, i.e. 6 to 7 quarts for a front drive car, 7 to 9 on a Ranger and more like 10 to 13 on our trucks.