whitecrystal1

I just did mine today, pretty easy job. (this may apply to the 4.6L too) My truck just had the fluid completely flushed at 30K but that service didn't include dropping the pan and replacing the filter. I'm at 31K now and I did the filter my self instead of paying them for it. The transmission and torque converter holds a total of 13.9 qts, by doing this service you change close to half of it. This should take no more than an hour to do. Tools needed For safety you need at least a pair of safety glasses and maybe some gloves. You will need 6quarts of fluid Mercon V and a filter, I bought 7 just in case. Tools, You need a Ratchet and a 10mm socket along with a couple extensions to make it easier to get to the bolts between the pan and the cross member. As you can see I also had a torque wrench but I ended up not using it. Ford recommends the bolts to be torqued to 14Nm 10(lb-ft). You also need a Transmission funnel and a pan (sorry no picture, pan needs to be BIG and wide). I used a 15qt pan. Lets get to work. Start with loosening the bolts in the pan at one end and slowly work it to the other end so the fluid will drain out the end where you started (having the pan under it to catch the fluid). 1,-- 2, -- 3. I ended up getting to the point that I had all but two bolts out before I dropped the pan. The two that I removed last were between the pan and the cross member. I kept loosening them to get more angle on the pan to get the most fluid out of it as I could before I dropped it. In order to do that I had to hold the pan up to loosen the bolts, the angle the pan was in gave no access to the bolts. When the fluid stops it's time to drop it. Now with both hands grab the filter and wiggle it down until it is out. I went ahead and wiped the under side off some. This ring needs to come out if it doesn't come out with the filter remove it. VVVV Quote: CAUTION: Carefully use a small screwdriver to remove the seal. Use care not to damage the main control bore. I used a small screwdriver and positioned it above the ring working it down slowly using caution not to let it touch the bore. DO NOT try and stick and object between it and the bore or you will scar the bore. Here is how the pan looked after I removed it. Mystery part I have read other threads talking about it but I don't remember why it comes in the pans from the factory. This is not needed to be reinstalled. Quote: Originally Posted by i.ride.suzuki Used when installing the trannys, it plugs it, until the dipstick tube is installed. Close up of the magnet before cleaning and after cleaning. Here's the pan all cleaned up. BTW, the pan gasket is reusable if it hasn't been serviced and replaced with an aftermarket gasket. Gasket wiped clean, magnet reinstalled and ready to go. Here is the new and old filters to give you a better idea of how dirty it was , you can see the spot I wiped clean on the old filter. Here is one of a few dirty rags. Time to reinstall the new filter. I applied some fluid on the seal on the new filter. I don't know if it was necessary but I figured it was a good idea. Install the filter opposite the way it was removed until it's all the way in the hole. Bolt the pan back on. Now get under the hood and locate the transmission stick. Pull the dip stick out and insert the funnel and add 5qts of fluid. At this point you need to get the tranny up to operating temperature (150-170 degs) to get an accurate reading and be able to top it off. At operation temp move the gear shifter through all the gears checking for gear engagements. The engine needs to be running when checking the fluid level, if it's still low at this point add fluid in .5 pint (1/2 pint) increments until full in the cross hatch. I actually took my truck for a ride around the block a couple times between checking the level and getting it to full. My truck took 6qts to fill it back up. ________________________________________________ For everyones info, Ford says the filter doesn't need changed under normal and or sever duty services. This is what it says in the Factory Service Manual Quote: "Draining the fluid from the transmission pan by removing only the fluid is acceptable for normal or sever duty fluid maintenance." on step four it says Quote: "Do not remove the fluid filter. It is not necessary to change the fluid filter during a normal maintenance fluid change." Here's the only time Ford recommends a new filter Quote: "If transmission is being repaired for a contamination-related failure, use a new filter and seal. The filter may be reused if no excessive contamination is present." Anytime I drop mine I'm putting in a new filter even if it's not needed per Ford. I am going to do this service every 15K along with the flushes at 30K increments. If I recall the fluid and filter cost was around $30.

wde3477

Outstanding documentation of the project! Talk about step-by-step - great job!

It's my understanding that the 'mystery part' seals the dipstick hole in the transmission until final assembly, where I envision the dipstick tube is installed, just pushing this plug into the pan.

Have no idea why it can't be removed first, unless it's some quality assurance thing to ensure that no crud is introduced.

Half Breed

Nice Post!!

djsf150

Great post! We need more of these.

HJDF150

Good post, I wish I would have had this a month ago when I changed my tranny fluid and filter, that "mystery part" had me ****ting bricks cause it was late and I couldn't get ahold of the dealer or any auto part stores that knew what i was talkin bout till finally Oreilly helped me out w/ what it was lol

blackbetty

the yellow top is a dust plug used for assembly im told...

good write up...you have the 4r70w tranny? if so its the same for 4.6l motors

blackbetty

ok 2 things...one what is the w vs e designation?

and 2, the pan appears to be the same..im going to say its the same tranny..

go4dan

Is there any differance in the proceedure if it is being performed on a 2003 f-150 4.2 V6 auto?

XPerties

This is a great write up and is almost everything I have been looking for. Can you or anyone else post pictures for the same year block and explain the complete details on how to drain all fluid out including the torque converter?

Where is the torque converter located, drain plug, steps?

Thank you.

Kattumaram

Good work-up....nothing missing that I could see.

Torque converter drain: If the converter can be drained, there will be a neoprene plug filling an access hole under the bottom of the flywheel housing. Remove the plug and, using a large flat-blade screwdriver, pry the ring gear around until the drain plug (1/8-NPT) in the converter aligns with the access hole. Pull the plug to drain the fluid, then clean up the plug and bore in the converter, apply some thread sealant to the plug and torque it back in place.