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Old 11-16-2012, 08:26 AM   #81
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Anyone know if its the same procedure for an 04? I see a how-to for 97-03 and then this one 05-08.

Thanks
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:21 PM   #82
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Anyone know if its the same procedure for an 04? I see a how-to for 97-03 and then this one 05-08.

Thanks
If its the new body style and not the heritage it will be that same as this write up. I should change the title to include 04, not sure why I didnt when I made this.
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:51 PM   #83
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If its the new body style and not the heritage it will be that same as this write up. I should change the title to include 04, not sure why I didnt when I made this.
That's what I figured just wanted to make sure. Thanks
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:20 PM   #84
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That's what I figured just wanted to make sure. Thanks
Mine is the '04 new body style and I did mine not too long ago, broke practically all of 'em and had to perform surgery to get #8 out. It wasn't as bad as I thought it was, and be sure to give credit to Kozal01 for this. I was quoted $400 from the dealer and $100+ for each plug that breaks. The money I saved I used to buy a headache rack.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:53 AM   #85
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I just did my swap this weekend. This write up helped a ton, especially removing the PCM and bracket, that freed up a LOT of space on the passenger side. The drivers side was certainly tighter, but not horrible.

I did a hybrid of this process and the Ford TSB process. Cracked the plugs, used PB blaster and Valvoline Carb Cleaner, let em sit for about an hour or so, and then followed the Ford procedure to remove them. Tighten and loosen over and over. It really wasn't that bad, just sounded like hell as they all squealed coming out. I was successful in getting all 8 to come out clean - lucky me. Lotto here I come!!

I think regardless of the method you use to pull these plugs out, if you take your time, use some penetrating solvent and carb cleaner, and have a bit of patience, you will have some luck. I don't know if there's any 100% guaranteed method of removing them all clean - luck of the draw in my honest opinion. The great thing is write ups like this, and the Lisle tool, any DIY'er should be able to tackle this and save some bucks.

Good luck wrenching everyone!!
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:29 PM   #86
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I just did my swap this weekend. This write up helped a ton, especially removing the PCM and bracket, that freed up a LOT of space on the passenger side. The drivers side was certainly tighter, but not horrible.

I did a hybrid of this process and the Ford TSB process. Cracked the plugs, used PB blaster and Valvoline Carb Cleaner, let em sit for about an hour or so, and then followed the Ford procedure to remove them. Tighten and loosen over and over. It really wasn't that bad, just sounded like hell as they all squealed coming out. I was successful in getting all 8 to come out clean - lucky me. Lotto here I come!!

I think regardless of the method you use to pull these plugs out, if you take your time, use some penetrating solvent and carb cleaner, and have a bit of patience, you will have some luck. I don't know if there's any 100% guaranteed method of removing them all clean - luck of the draw in my honest opinion. The great thing is write ups like this, and the Lisle tool, any DIY'er should be able to tackle this and save some bucks.

Good luck wrenching everyone!!
Glad everything went well and thanks for the input.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:36 PM   #87
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Excellent write up with pics. Thanks for the effort.

After all said and done, it wasn't bad at all, the anticipation is what is bad, and this is even with no experience working on cars...just be PATIENT.

I have a 2006 5.4L with 59,500 miles. I also did a hybrid method with the TSB, no air tools though. I also removed the air cleaner which helped to get at the 2 plugs closest to the firewall.

I used a standard ratchet to crack them before applying the pb blaster/carb cleaner and I'm convinced that I cracked the porcelain on one plug as a result (I would recommend using the beam torque wrench for this step too). Soaked them overnight. Used a beam torque wrench to work back and forth for a good 5-10 minutes each. I would go back and forth 1/8 turn until it felt smooth and no binding, then advance 1/8 and repeat.

I broke one, but as mentioned I think I broke it on the initial cracking...going too fast. I repeat, be PATIENT and this is not a daunting project.

In addition to the tools mentioned, I got an
f150 specific spark plug socket f150 specific spark plug socket
. For the most part a 3" and 6" socket extension work well, but for the 2 closest to the firewall I needed something in between. Northern Tool had 1" and 2" extensions that worked well to avoid using an angle joint. I would NOT use an angle joint as the lateral stress is sure to crack the porcelain.

The Lisle tool is super easy to use. I spent more time working a good plug out than extracting a broken one.

At less than $150, less if you resell the special tools, it's a no brainer. I'm using the savings to upgrade my 2WD hub/rotors to Centric 2 piece (120.65128). Will still come out cheaper than the dealer would have charged just to change the plugs! If anyone is on the fence, you can do it.

Now what other widespread issues are on these trucks that I need to figure out?

Last edited by jbsmith54; 12-14-2012 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 12-15-2012, 01:01 PM   #88
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Just did mine - thank you to the OP!

I did have 2 get stuck - cylinder number 4 and cylinder number 6. I'm a huge fan of PB blaster and used it to loosen each plug. I removed the hardware/coils, sprayed well and let soak for about 30hours - after those two did not come out I frantically searched for the Lisle tool - luckily a Oreily's about 30minutes away had one in stock. I zipped up and got it and very nervously got the two plugs out.

I didnt see anywhere how much Lisle tool torque is too much but I put about 25 to 30 ft*lbs on the spark plug tip (via the Lisle Tool) and that seemed to be enough to grip and remove. The last thing I wanted to was to thread-out tip and really have it stuck.

I was very very hesitant to put the motorcraft 2 piece plugs back in. They were nearly double the cost and hell-or-high-water if I'm gonna endorse a product that uses a bad design. but finally settled on them bc I wanted to avoid any CEL, they are ~100k mile plugs(I got 124k on the truck now) and I already bought the Lisle Tool…

I added a ample amount of anti-seize to both the threads and the tip to prevent this problem in the future. Cleaned everything up, reassembled and it was good to go. No issues thus far.

I decided to keep the Lisle Tool and put a add on craigslist as a rental…I'm sure other people in the denver metro area are doing this swap…listed it for $20 for 2days…maybe I'll make my money back…

If anyone from the board lives in colorado and wants to borrow it you're more than welcome to, no charge but please be prepared fore ~$150 deposit. PM me…

my advice to people doing this is take your time and be methodical…allow yourself plenty of time…this is 8hour job start to finish if everything goes perfectly
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:43 PM   #89
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I just did my swap this weekend. This write up helped a ton, especially removing the PCM and bracket, that freed up a LOT of space on the passenger side. The drivers side was certainly tighter, but not horrible.
I just zipped all of mine off with a 3/8-inch impact wrench. Works wonders with the Lisle tool. Some of plugs on Bank 2 were stuck in there so bad I had to zip them out with my 800lb-ft 1/2-inch impact wrench. I did let mine soak with PB Blaster and carb cleaner, but I did mine with around 160,000km on the odometer.

Glad things worked out for you. It really isn't that bad of a job. Now if only I can muster up the courage to do my rear pinions seal...
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:01 PM   #90
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Why does a Lincoln Navigator get alot better gAS MILEAGE than my 2004 f150 4x4 with the same 5.4 motor??
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:01 PM
 
 
 
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