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How to- Replace rear pinion seal

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Old 11-18-2013, 10:55 AM   #11
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I did this pinion seal replacement this weekend. It went pretty well other than putting the flange/yoke back on went pretty hard. I made sure it was lined up and started on ok, but I had to really beat it with hammer and then tighten up the nut little by little until it went on all the way. Is that normal? I mean I really had to hammer on it for quite a while. It did come off hard as well with the gear puller.

And I did mark the pinion nut so that I got it on exactly to the same place where it was before I took it off. It lined up perfect when I got it as tight as I could go, which would reinforce that the crush sleeve sets this distance automatically.

Last edited by jrp76; 11-18-2013 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:38 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by jrp76 View Post
I did this pinion seal replacement this weekend. It went pretty well other than putting the flange/yoke back on went pretty hard. I made sure it was lined up and started on ok, but I had to really beat it with hammer and then tighten up the nut little by little until it went on all the way. Is that normal? I mean I really had to hammer on it for quite a while. It did come off hard as well with the gear puller. And I did mark the pinion nut so that I got it on exactly to the same place where it was before I took it off. It lined up perfect when I got it as tight as I could go, which would reinforce that the crush sleeve sets this distance automatically.
I would say you are fine. Congrats, yes the crush sleeve pretty much prevents all that.
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:52 PM   #13
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Great writeup, ibd. In fact, all of your how-to's are top-notch. You have that teaching gene that is so rare these days.

I did the pinion seal replacement last fall, but only just now found your how-to. Turned out I did most everything correctly, and I got myself a new impact wrench in the process (old one was too tired and worn-out).
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:47 AM   #14
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Thumbs up Ford Garage Cost to replace leaking pinion seal?

Thanks IBD for the step by step pictures for the pinion seal replacement. Extremely helpful...I don't have the tools to replace my leaking seal, so I am taking to the garage this week. Does anyone know the estimated time or cost that a Ford dealer would charge for this service?

Thanks again..
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:15 AM   #15
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I would suggest the following.........

When removing the pinion nut , DO NOT use an impact wrench. you stand a chance of damaging the pinion bearings. Use a 3/4" drive socket and braker bar or a 1/2" with a cheater bar. Same with replacing the pinion nut...in fact you should use a NEW pinion nut or at the very least use blue Loctite on the pinion threads on assembly.

As to preload on replacing the pinion nut. When removing the pinion nut, mark or center punch the face of the nut and the face of the pinion shaft. You have to count the nut revolutions when removing and use the same revos. on replacing, and tightening the nut by looking at the dots and aligning those dots. You can use a Sharpie pen instead of center punching, but it will very hard to see. You will be using the same crush sleeve that is still in the gear housing and you must put that nut back in the same place that was originally.

When installing the seal, before pressing in, clean the bore very clean, no grease or oil. Grease the seal lip of the seal. Use an anerobic sealer on the o.d. of the seal.

Before replacing the companion flange (the front flange) , inspect the sealing area of the flange. ANY rust, dings, scratches, use a ribbon of 500 or 600 wet/dry paper removing any crud and lightly grease the seal area.

Before you remove the jackstands under the axle assembly (you did use jackstands...yes??) and before screwing together the driveshaft, rotate the pinion flange to make sure things feel right.
That shouldn't matter with a crush sleeve
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:33 AM   #16
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As noted in an earlier post, lubricate the inside of the seal before putting in on. A dry seal is easily damaged.
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