HOW TO: Diagnose your 4x4 system. ESOF
06-11-2014, 10:06 AM
#212
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Is this the correct part? Just want to double check before I order it. Thanks in advance.
http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/f-150...e=4wd-actuator
http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/f-150...e=4wd-actuator
06-16-2014, 07:36 PM
#214
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Here is my problem now.
Before when I lifted the front right tire, the tire would spin without the half shaft moving. This was with the truck off and in 2WD. I was getting the infamous grinding noise. The front left tire would spin with the half shaft with the truck off in 2WD.
I ordered a new actuator for the front right. Just finished replacing it and it solved my problem of the half shaft not spinning with the tire. The only problem I have now is that it still makes the grinding noise when I drive.
Also, before i replaced the actuator I could hear the actuator locking into the hub when I switched to 4Hi which would fix the grinding noise. Now when I switch to 4Hi I don't hear them lock in and it doesn't stop the grinding noise. I am at a lose, any help would be appreciated!! Thanks!!
EDIT:
So I went for another drive this time in 4Hi. When I was backing out of the driveway and turned my wheel to the left (so the bed of the truck went to the left) when I had the steering almost locked out to the left it felt like the right front tire was stuck. It was like the truck didn't want to back up anymore. I put it in drive and started to drive. The truck was driving well until I tried to make a right turn and the wheel started to do the same thing. It doesn't do it when I turn left. What do you think the problem is? Thanks in advanced.
Semper Fi
Before when I lifted the front right tire, the tire would spin without the half shaft moving. This was with the truck off and in 2WD. I was getting the infamous grinding noise. The front left tire would spin with the half shaft with the truck off in 2WD.
I ordered a new actuator for the front right. Just finished replacing it and it solved my problem of the half shaft not spinning with the tire. The only problem I have now is that it still makes the grinding noise when I drive.
Also, before i replaced the actuator I could hear the actuator locking into the hub when I switched to 4Hi which would fix the grinding noise. Now when I switch to 4Hi I don't hear them lock in and it doesn't stop the grinding noise. I am at a lose, any help would be appreciated!! Thanks!!
EDIT:
So I went for another drive this time in 4Hi. When I was backing out of the driveway and turned my wheel to the left (so the bed of the truck went to the left) when I had the steering almost locked out to the left it felt like the right front tire was stuck. It was like the truck didn't want to back up anymore. I put it in drive and started to drive. The truck was driving well until I tried to make a right turn and the wheel started to do the same thing. It doesn't do it when I turn left. What do you think the problem is? Thanks in advanced.
Semper Fi
Last edited by Daniel Pettway; 06-16-2014 at 08:20 PM. Reason: New symptom
06-17-2014, 08:00 PM
#215
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Simple question. I have the 2013 XLT 4x4 EcoBoost with the big tow package (11300 lbs). I'm used to using manual locking hubs. I've been known to tow down some pretty steep asphalt grades to get home from the good camping areas.
In the past with other 4x4 trucks, I would simply not lock the manual hubs and run down 8% to 9% grades crawling in low range, usually in 3rd gear or so. I would barely even use the brakes and it kept it under control nicely.
I am considering doing the same thing, towing an 8000 to 9000 lb toy hauler with this truck down a long, narrow, steep grade. In all that I have learned from this thread, would it be possible to bypass the solenoid (connect the two vacuum lines together with a splicer piece) temporarily so that I can take advantage of the low range gears without locking the hubs and binding up the steering in those sharp asphalt turns? Do you see any issues with this truck doing this?
A special safety note about anyone trying this. Use your brakes and slow way down prior to approaching areas where lose gravel or slippery surfaces appear. The rear wheels on your truck are doing all of the work and can jackknife you quickly when you pass through slippery spots. Use caution and think about what you and your truck are doing. Its a long way down!
In the past with other 4x4 trucks, I would simply not lock the manual hubs and run down 8% to 9% grades crawling in low range, usually in 3rd gear or so. I would barely even use the brakes and it kept it under control nicely.
I am considering doing the same thing, towing an 8000 to 9000 lb toy hauler with this truck down a long, narrow, steep grade. In all that I have learned from this thread, would it be possible to bypass the solenoid (connect the two vacuum lines together with a splicer piece) temporarily so that I can take advantage of the low range gears without locking the hubs and binding up the steering in those sharp asphalt turns? Do you see any issues with this truck doing this?
A special safety note about anyone trying this. Use your brakes and slow way down prior to approaching areas where lose gravel or slippery surfaces appear. The rear wheels on your truck are doing all of the work and can jackknife you quickly when you pass through slippery spots. Use caution and think about what you and your truck are doing. Its a long way down!
08-13-2014, 10:37 PM
#216
Simple question. I have the 2013 XLT 4x4 EcoBoost with the big tow package (11300 lbs). I'm used to using manual locking hubs. I've been known to tow down some pretty steep asphalt grades to get home from the good camping areas.
In the past with other 4x4 trucks, I would simply not lock the manual hubs and run down 8% to 9% grades crawling in low range, usually in 3rd gear or so. I would barely even use the brakes and it kept it under control nicely.
I am considering doing the same thing, towing an 8000 to 9000 lb toy hauler with this truck down a long, narrow, steep grade. In all that I have learned from this thread, would it be possible to bypass the solenoid (connect the two vacuum lines together with a splicer piece) temporarily so that I can take advantage of the low range gears without locking the hubs and binding up the steering in those sharp asphalt turns? Do you see any issues with this truck doing this?
A special safety note about anyone trying this. Use your brakes and slow way down prior to approaching areas where lose gravel or slippery surfaces appear. The rear wheels on your truck are doing all of the work and can jackknife you quickly when you pass through slippery spots. Use caution and think about what you and your truck are doing. Its a long way down!
In the past with other 4x4 trucks, I would simply not lock the manual hubs and run down 8% to 9% grades crawling in low range, usually in 3rd gear or so. I would barely even use the brakes and it kept it under control nicely.
I am considering doing the same thing, towing an 8000 to 9000 lb toy hauler with this truck down a long, narrow, steep grade. In all that I have learned from this thread, would it be possible to bypass the solenoid (connect the two vacuum lines together with a splicer piece) temporarily so that I can take advantage of the low range gears without locking the hubs and binding up the steering in those sharp asphalt turns? Do you see any issues with this truck doing this?
A special safety note about anyone trying this. Use your brakes and slow way down prior to approaching areas where lose gravel or slippery surfaces appear. The rear wheels on your truck are doing all of the work and can jackknife you quickly when you pass through slippery spots. Use caution and think about what you and your truck are doing. Its a long way down!
11-05-2014, 11:15 PM
#217
Raptor and 4x4 diagnosis
I should add, you may be tempted to blow any water out of the system using compressed air. It's OK to do this so long as you first disconnect both check valves and the vacuum reservoir (obviously pull the hoses off at the IWEs also). If you don't disconnect them, air pressure will destroy them. Instead of a compressor, I'd use that canned air you can get to clean dust out of computers. Just tape the straw into the vacuum lines.
I asking this question because I had grinding up front due to a vacuum line damage. I repaired the vacuum line and the next day could not crawl up a steep hill in 4 low. My buddy said my fronts were not pulling. I do not cycle the TCM often so I am wondering if I have a combination of issues. While engine is on half shafts do not spin in 2wd. While engine is on half shafts do spin in 4wd.
Even though I heard grinding, dealer said iwe is not damaged but they replaced the hub due to a damaged oring.
I leave for a camping trip in Death Valley at the end of November and I need to determine if my front wheels will function in 4wd under load.
Thanks
Dan
11-06-2014, 12:46 AM
#218
I'm not sure if the Raptors have a limited slip front differential. If they do, with the engine off and both front wheels off the ground, you should see BOTH front wheels turn THE SAME DIRECTION when you turn one of them. The IWEs will lock each wheel to its half shaft, and the limited slip diff will cause them to turn together.
If you have an open diff, the opposite wheel will turn in the OPPOSITE direction or MAY NOT TURN AT ALL when you turn one of them. This is because of internal friction in the differential that may cause the front driveshaft to turn when you turn one of the wheels, rather that turning the opposite wheel. In either case, with the engine off, the IWEs should lock the half shafts to the hubs.
If you have an open diff, the opposite wheel will turn in the OPPOSITE direction or MAY NOT TURN AT ALL when you turn one of them. This is because of internal friction in the differential that may cause the front driveshaft to turn when you turn one of the wheels, rather that turning the opposite wheel. In either case, with the engine off, the IWEs should lock the half shafts to the hubs.
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11-06-2014, 01:29 AM
#219
Thanks
Is there a condition that would cause the 4wd system to not transfer torque to the front wheels when load is applied without a grinding noise being heard? Like a TC clutch slip?
Is there a condition that would cause the 4wd system to not transfer torque to the front wheels when load is applied without a grinding noise being heard? Like a TC clutch slip?
11-06-2014, 02:16 AM
#220
The clutch in the TC is activated by a magnet and has a mechanical lockup. It's extremely unlikely that it would lock up and then slip under power. It's more likely the IWEs are not locking in to the hubs. Have you gone through the entire diagnostic at the beginning of this thread?